While driving at 60mph engine quit after tests=fuel ok/spark ok/timing ok/ NO COMPRESSION 3 CYL. 1 HAS 80PSI

IS THIS A RUBBER CAM BELT DRIVE, IF YES IT IS BAD
rs415 ,NO SWIFTS IN USA 2007
M15A 4-cyl 1.5 (BUT IS CHAIN CAM)
SO IF COMPRESSION AND SPARK ARE GOOD?

THEN WE DO TEST FUEL, CAN-0-SPRAY TEST FUEL
IT MUST START OR ENGINE HAS PROBLEMS
FUEL DRIBBLE TESTS ARE 99% USELESS IF NOT DRY.
ONLY FUEL PRESSURE MATTERS, FOR SURE CRANKING
ANY DEAD ENGINE, AT PSI SPEC. PRESSURE.
M15A HAS VVT, IF STUCK VVT,STUCK ADVANCED,
THIS TO CAN FAIL.
ALL SPARK GOOD X4 , SO TEST FUEL IS NEXT
SPRAY IT TO INTAKE MAIN PIPE, FOR 3 SECONDS
AND ENGINE RUNS FOR 3 SECONDS AND STOPS
REPEAT AND BE SURE ENGINE SOUNDS GOOD.
IF YES FUEL PRESSURE IS DEAD WRONG

Low compression, Timing chain off a tooth or two, bent valves.

94 gas engine? which one, (SIZE:?) and cylinder count.? 4?
this is called MISfire, AND IS caused by many things.
in gear what is in gear, the auto or stick trans, I cant guess that either.
Is this EFI fueling or in some far way country with old CARB?
we stopped carbs here about 1988. so... cant guess this either.
sure post country, that really helps, 1 in 100,000 hit rate on that.

sure bad spark is #1 cause of misfire! "a full tunejup"
but you skipped filters? (listed first, in tuneup list")
#2 on old engines like this is bad compression. 1 or more cyl.
#3 is bad fueling. (it can misfire flooding, or bog too lean)
too lean can misfire too,

i cant drive your car ,nor experience all modes of misfire.
so my answers will be all wrong, and wild guessing.
but Ill skip the guessing, ok 1 more, EGR leaks (that too is listed on the tuneup schedule as check EGR !)
i do the full tune up
it runs bad. still
i check spark timing , if way off the cam belt slipped....
5min. work that. just 5min. and omg wow;d timing jump 20 degrees retarded.?

i then check compression, it's and old engine, why skip this.?
the compression test is done wide open throttle, and will show
you if the engine even has some life left, say you get 170psi warm on all 4, and is spec. look like engine has future, so Ill invest repairs
if not , consider selling it (1hr work and speaks volumes on what to do next ,see?)
ok compression at spec.
now we have fueling,
you cant burn fuel with bad spark or bad compression so we arrive at fuelling, (complex)
ill stop here until you answer engine type, and fueling system
carb or EFI.
(3 possible diagnosis paths, carb, or speed or Air density EFI

tell more get more.

do the 60k tuneup or 100k, mile. per the book. fuel filter 20 yearsold?

which engine. the 1.6 or 1.8 toyota engine (its a corolla in snake skins) 4afe or 7afe ,
cold or hot?
warm / hot , is specified in the Factory service manual.
most cars get at least 150PSI (wide open throttle) hot (warm) , sparks out.
the compression ratio is the key factor for compression.
The 7A has 9.5 CR, way more than the 4A.
if way low on all cylinders the cam belt slipped, ever do a belt job at 60k?

here is an actual test off a good, 7afe
Compression test dry: CYL 1=210/CYL 2=200 CYL 3=205 CYL 4=205

when the belt slips the PSI can drop to 90 easy
and fail.
rules:
battery charged
spark plugs removed
block open throttle (and if smart pull fuel pump fuse)
crank until the needle goes steady. using remote start cable at starter lug, works best (safety , 3 ways)
bingo
repeat

no start is a whole other matter. (double posted)
my guess (???) you put i a new cam belt to this DOHC engine?
1: new belt
2: timed it right.
3: turn engine by hand , to feel the valves not hit piston tops.? spark plugs out.
4: did a 4 cyl, leak down test with the guage. to see if valve are ALREADY bent, this step saves making them worse. if already damaged, or if the cam is wrong now.
(bravery starts here)
5: you crank it over, and checked for spark, ok got spark x4 and is timed right, (will be wrong, if cam is wrong, for sure, big hint here.)
6: got spark ?, good compression?, and now we try test fuel.
I spray test fuel into the plenum (if not flooding already)
yes, runs for 3 seconds, (good engine is good, but no fueling)
no, engine is bad. spark is timed wrong, or cam timed wrong.

just 6 steps.... if you do them you can save this motor. or at the least
prevent cascade damage.

the goal here is to get it to run on test fuel, , we can fix fueling issues
now.. as the engine is good. a major goal of many.

which engine? there are many.
can be 50 things
300 means random misfire on all cylinders.
it really means all cylinder have weak HP, weak power, weak combustion energy levels !

The ecu actually measures crankshaft acceleration rates (geekspeak)
in lay terms this means (btw 300s never lie, it's REAL misfire)
there is one exception a loose timing belt or cam chain. can trip 300s.

in no order ever.

1: bad spark to all cyl.
2: low compression to all cylinders (cam timing off, melted CAT)
3: bad fueling to all. (EGR stuck wide open , engine stalls?)

but can be 50 things, so its best not to GUE$$
what we do is conduct simple tests.
first is do the 60,000 mile tuneup. do that its cheap, and works in most cases.
1: tuneup time.sparks and filters both. fuel and air.
2: compression test, and vacuum tests. at WOT,. both. ask for data.
3: check cam timing. if compression fails on all cyl.
4: i scan the ECU looking at fuel trim and closed loop working, ask.

which engine??????????????????
one of those is false. i bet. ever the the 60k mile tune up this decade ? Yes, good, no?, well, what did you expect?
driving honda's top death is just that....see end. below.

my guess is you are doing one test wrong. , (i cant see you, so...)
THE ROPES: (called basics ) order counts big time.

1-good engine? (compression at 150psi or more x4? or x6 if V6.
2-good spark at all cyl. and timing right. check timing.
if timing of spark is way off the cam belt slipped, no service ever done is cause.
3-good fueling, it runs. (if not flooded (is it) test fuel does work here.
in this step.

turns off driving, but how did you do that, if it wont start?????
my guess is the stalls were the preamble to the end death


exceptions, to above. ( 1st CAT ,is rare)
1: CAT melted. (there is a cheap simple test ,ask)
2: ISC stuck closed, (Aka; iAC electric) use 10% throttle to mimic this bad part and car starts easy , this trick is in the operators manual.
3: EGR stuck wide open, see 10% above, trick. or clean it.
4: engine flooded, see opr. guide for WOT cranking
you crank at WOT. wide open throttle, and EFI cuts all fuel, clearing
the flood.
so, do you look at spark tips for BAD COLOR or soaking wet with fuel.
Look at them. (they speak volumes)

old spark plates and winter hate each other..
do the full tune up, filters ,cap rotor, wires and plugs. and magic happes, and if the timing belt is old, BOOM
the HONDA IS NOT FREE RUNNING at all.
that means ,skip belt service, a $25 belt can wreck the whole engine.
or at the least just bent valves,
on this engine, my cylinder leak down tool comes out 1st.
(your symptoms)

PLUGS LOOK LIKE THIS?

http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/sparks-flooded1a.jpg

take the head off bent valves thats for sure

Hello
Here is what to check let me know if you need help checking this out
most common misfire causes on the cars I've worked on have been:

1. Spark plugs
2. Spark plug wires
3. Ignition coil
4. Fuel injector
5. Wiring to fuel injector
6. Timing Belt
7. Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR
8. Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump
9. Weak compression
10. Blown head gasket

Check for spark at the cylinders you mention. Unplug the wires from the spark plugs, put a spark plug in the end of the wires, and attach the body of the plugs to earth, or an exposed metal part of the engine. With the engine running, you should have spark at the plugs. If no spark, get the ignition system tested. If there is spark present, and you think the fuel is ok, then the compression must be at fault. The things that are required for combustion are: spark, fuel, and compression. Get a compression test done on the engine, but first check for any vacuum leaks in the inlet manifold around the cyl 5 and 6 area.