# 10 fuse keeps blowing. I unplugged the connector from the Brake Pressure Deactivation Switch but that did not make any difference. There does not seem to be any leaking brake fluid that I can see. Sometimes it works for a while and then blows. It seems it blows when you hit a bump but I can't be certain. What could be making the fuse keep blowing.

keep going if those didnt fix need to check harness for short or damage

Fuses are listed here
* = maxi fuse
1*=50A I/P fuse panel
2*=40A blower motor relay
3*= 50A 4 wheel ABS module
4*=20a Main light switch-Instrument cluster
5*=50A Ignition switch, starter relay
6*=20A Transfer case relay
7*= NOT USED
8*=20A Auto Ride Control Switch/on off switch
9*=40A Auto Ride Control relay
10*=30A PCM power relay
mini fuses
1=10A A/C relay
2=20A Aux power point
3= not used
4=15A Fog lamps-Daytime lamps
5=10A Air Bag diagnostic monitor
6=10A Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
7=30A 4WABS module
8=30A PCM relay
9=20A Fuel Pump relay and RAP module
10= 15A Horn relay
11=15A Park Lamp relay-Main Light Switch
12=30A Main light switch--Multi Function switch
13=15A Heated O2 sensors, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR solenoid,Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor,
Cannister Vent Solenoid, A4LD Auto Transmission
14=30A Generator-Voltage regulator
Interior fuse panel (mini fuses)
1=7.5A Power mirror switch
2=7.5A Blower motor relay,PAD module,Air Bag diagnostic monitor
3=7.5A Trailer tow connector
4=10A Left headlamp
5=10A Data link connector (DLC)
6=7.5A Air bag diagnostic monitor, Blower motor relay, Passive deactivation Module (PAD)
7=7.5A Trailer Tow connector
8=10A Right headlamp, Daytime running lamps (DRL) module, Foglight relay
9=7.5A Stop Lamp switch
10= 7.5A Speed control-amplifier assembly,Brake pressure switch, Generic electronoc Module (GEM)
Shift lock actuator, Blend door actuator, Main light switch, RABS resistor, A/C heater assembly
Flasher
11= 7.5A Instrument cluster, Main light switch, RABS resistor
12= 10A Power window relay, Washer pump relay
13= 20A Stop lamp switch, Brake pressure switch
14= 20A Rear Anti Lock Brake system (RABS) module
**10A 4WABS module**
15=7.5A Instrument cluster
16= 30A Windshield wiper Motor, Wiper Hi-lo relay, wiper run/park relay
17=7.5A Cig lighter
18=15A Drivers unlock relay-All unlock relay
19=25A PCM power diode
20=7.5A RAP module GEM module, Radio
21=15A Flasher (hazard)
22=20A Aux power socket
23=15A Turn signals
24===not used
25= 7.5A GEM module, Instrument cluster
26= 10A Battery saver relay, Electronic Shift relay, Interior lamp relay
Power window relay,Electronic shift control module, transmission control
27=15A Switch,DRL, Backup lamp switch, DTR sensor,Instrument illumination dimming control module
Dome/map lamp, GEM,electronic shift,Interior lights,Glove box lamp and switch
28=7.5A GEM module-Radio
29= 15A Radio
30=15A Park lamps, trailer Tow relay
31===not used
32=10A rear blower
33=15A Headlamps, DRL module, Instrument cluster
34=7.5A Rear integrated control panel, CD
35=10A RABS test connector
36=7.5A CD, rear integrated control panel, memory seat,

i copied this off another post hope this helps

If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

replace brake light switch down on the brake padel/has short in it

There is not a fuse for the CC itself, only the brake light fuse and the speed control deactivation switch ( on the top of the brake pedal lever ).

The deactivation switch is from fuse # 14, 10A.

Did you change the Stop / Turn bulbs to LEDs without the load resistors ? Usually the CHMSL ( Center High Mount Stop Lamp ) as a standard bulb is enough to keep the CC working, when doing LED Stop / turn bulbs.

The deactivation switch has the switch in the closed position to the PCM, when the brake is off.
Could also be this switch if the fuse tests good with a meter.

Check for power on both sides of the deactivation switch

Fuse #14 - Light Blue w/ Pinks stripe wire - deactivation switch - black w/ yellow stripe wire - PCM.

Fuses are listed here

* = maxi fuse

1*=50A I/P fuse panel
2*=40A blower motor relay
3*= 50A 4 wheel ABS module
4*=20a Main light switch-Instrument cluster
5*=50A Ignition switch, starter relay

6*=20A Transfer case relay
7*= NOT USED
8*=20A Auto Ride Control Switch/on off switch
9*=40A Auto Ride Control relay
10*=30A PCM power relay

mini fuses
1=10A A/C relay
2=20A Aux power point
3= not used
4=15A Fog lamps-Daytime lamps
5=10A Air Bag diagnostic monitor
6=10A Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
7=30A 4WABS module
8=30A PCM relay
9=20A Fuel Pump relay and RAP module
10= 15A Horn relay
11=15A Park Lamp relay-Main Light Switch
12=30A Main light switch--Multi Function switch
13=15A Heated O2 sensors, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR solenoid,Camshaft position (CMP) Sensor,
Cannister Vent Solenoid, A4LD Auto Transmission
14=30A Generator-Voltage regulator


Interior fuse panel (mini fuses)

1=7.5A Power mirror switch
2=7.5A Blower motor relay,PAD module,Air Bag diagnostic monitor
3=7.5A Trailer tow connector
4=10A Left headlamp
5=10A Data link connector (DLC)
6=7.5A Air bag diagnostic monitor, Blower motor relay, Passive deactivation Module (PAD)
7=7.5A Trailer Tow connector
8=10A Right headlamp, Daytime running lamps (DRL) module, Foglight relay
9=7.5A Stop Lamp switch
10= 7.5A Speed control-amplifier assembly,Brake pressure switch, Generic electronoc Module (GEM)
Shift lock actuator, Blend door actuator, Main light switch, RABS resistor, A/C heater assembly
Flasher
11= 7.5A Instrument cluster, Main light switch, RABS resistor
12= 10A Power window relay, Washer pump relay
13= 20A Stop lamp switch, Brake pressure switch
14= 20A Rear Anti Lock Brake system (RABS) module
**10A 4WABS module**

15=7.5A Instrument cluster
16= 30A Windshield wiper Motor, Wiper Hi-lo relay, wiper run/park relay
17=7.5A Cig lighter
18=15A Drivers unlock relay-All unlock relay
19=25A PCM power diode
20=7.5A RAP module GEM module, Radio
21=15A Flasher (hazard)
22=20A Aux power socket
23=15A Turn signals
24===not used
25= 7.5A GEM module, Instrument cluster
26= 10A Battery saver relay, Electronic Shift relay, Interior lamp relay
Power window relay,Electronic shift control module, transmission control
27=15A Switch,DRL, Backup lamp switch, DTR sensor,Instrument illumination dimming control module
Dome/map lamp, GEM,electronic shift,Interior lights,Glove box lamp and switch
28=7.5A GEM module-Radio
29= 15A Radio
30=15A Park lamps, trailer Tow relay
31===not used
32=10A rear blower
33=15A Headlamps, DRL module, Instrument cluster
34=7.5A Rear integrated control panel, CD
35=10A RABS test connector
36=7.5A CD, rear integrated control panel, memory seat, Message center Attached images __________________

I just had this trouble. Fuse F-10 will be blown. It is caused by a short in the ABS deactivation switch which is on the front and bottom of the master brake cylinder under the hood. The master brake cylinder is on the drivers side under the hood and is the unit where you add brake fluid. It has a connector with 2 wires on it and when it leaks brake fluid, the 2 wires short out and blow the F10 fuse causing your problem. So check that switch on the bottom front of the master brake cylinder and replace it if you have been losing brake fluid. It fixed my problem.

Lets deal with the fan. Only two things can cause a fuse to pop. A short in the wiper motor. Unplug the connector on it. It the fuse does not blow now you need a wiper moter. If it still blows the positve wire going to the motor is touching medal somewhere. You will need to inspect the wire going from the fuse block to the wiper motor. . Also sounds like you have no power to the brake switch.. Another fuse issue or a broken wire somwhere before where you bypassed the switch

replace your brake pressure switch on the master cylinder and that should take care of your problem.

The switch is located on the lower side of the master cylinder.It has two wires in the plug. Check for brake fluid seeping through it. The wires are LB/BK and OG. Also check the fuses in the fuse box under the dash. Fuse #5 is a 10 amp fuse that feeds this circuit.Hope this helps.