95 mustang 3.8 has high idle about 3,000 rpm when i disconect the air intake hose from the throtle body idle drops to 800 rpm but is lopey and very rich
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Check the vacuum hoses for leaks. Follow them around and make sure they're all connected and not worn out to where they had fallen off due to the hoses being old and worn out. Take some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray mist the intake and see if the idle changes. Check the big hose coming from the brake booster to the intake and make sure it's connected and in good shape. Basically check everything for vacuum leaks. It sounds like that's what you're issue is.
Hi. This idling problem relates to the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). Most surely it is clogged with dirt. No need to replace it, jus clean it. To clean it you first find it, unstallit, clean it and next reinstall it. It is located in the throtle body, beneath the air intake hose. The IAC provides alternate ventilation to the engine when rpm's are slow, such as when idling. When the IAC valve is clogged it wont open at the command of the Powertrain Control Module and so the engine stalls. Once you locate, unplug its connector, unscrew it (use a star screwdriver) and take it off the throtlebody neck. Spray it with Electronic Conctact Cleaner (3M brand will do) while moving its movable parts with your hands, you will see much black dirt coming out. Continue doing it until liquid comes out clear. Next, let all liquid drip out and wait until the ramaining liquid inside evaporates. That liquid is quick to evaporate. Next reassemble and you are all done. Your IAC will continue to provide you with many years of use. Ah, make sure that when installing the air intake hose back in place, the rubber ring that nests it on the throttle body is well nested to prevent dust and dirt to get inside in the future. That dirt, sand, fumes and dust if allowed enter the throtle body and also the IAC vent clogging it. So make sure the air intake hose is well sealed and only lets filtered air to get in the throtle body. bye.
It means that when you are in drive gear but idle, that the idle rpm is several hundred rpm different from the nominal 'target' rpm. I would begin by removing the air intake hose to the throttle body and using a solvent clean the throat of the throttle body, both sides of the throttle plate (move the acceleator linkage for access to the throat and rear side of the plate) and also the port of the air passageway at the side of the throat which is for idle air input. Check that the throttle linkage moves freely. Also look for any vacuum hoses connected to the intake manifold to be sure none are disconnected, and also make sure the ball in pcv valve in one of those hoses is moving freely. See how the idle rpm then 'rides'. If that isn't sufficient, then the idle control circuits need to be considered, but those have a separate fault code.
COULD BE THE IAC VALVE "IDLE AIR CONTROL".
LOCATED ON THE THROTLE BODY, TRY REMOVING AIR INTAKE HOSE AND WITH INTAKE CLEANER SPRAY OPENING AND ALL HOLES IN OPENING WITH CLEANER.VALVE IS STICKING AND RAISING IDLE. CAN'T HURT AND YOU GET A CLEAN THROTLE BODY SERVICE.
This is an idling problem. Whenever the shift selector is in N or P the engine is running free of the torque converter load, so the rpms in these two positions are higher than in 1,2 or 3. If the engine is runing and you are driving say in position 1 and come to a stop and the engine stalls, you need to clean the Idle Air Control valve. This valve provides the engine with additional air anytime the throtle valve is clossed, such as when lifting your foot off the accelerator pedal, while driving. If the valve is clogged (with dirt, fumes, sand, dust), its moving parts do not move freely (or move erratically) under the comand of the Power Train Control Module and so with no additional air feeding the engine when needed, it stalls. The IAC valve is located on the side of the throat of the throtle body, under the air intake hose. Unscrew the air intake hose nut that is on top of the throtle body. Remove the air intake hose so that you can habe better acces to the IAC valve. Next, locate the Idle air control valve and unplug its connector. Unscrew all star screws of the valve and take it out. Apply liquid contact cleaner inside the IAC with a spray. While doing that move with your fingers the movable pieces the valve has, spray it enough liquid to get all dirt out. When the liquid comes out clean, let it drip until dry. The liquid dries fast. When dry, reassemble all. You are all done. To prevent this from happening again, make sure the Air intake hose is well nested on the throtle body. It has black rubber ring around that prevents dust from coming in and clogging the IAC, make sure the ring is there. IAC valves are buit rugged, once clean they are capable of providing many years of trouble free service. Just mind to have only filtered air coming into the throtle body, not dust or smoke. Put the hose well on its place.
buffalo man said engine doing what it should do. friendly neighborhood mechanic said it go 1250 RPM on start up, then drop to 700 to 800
found defective part outside throttle body. runs OK now
you need to replace the throtle body controll sensor. Also you may want to make sure all your linkage from the pedal to the throtle body is cleaned and lubed correctly. While playing in this direct area. Your throtle body is only 4 bolts away. Why not get some carb cleaner and get to know your truck just a litle more.
If this is a carborator, then you need to turn my warmup idle down. there are 2 sets of idles on carborators. the one to warm up the engine, automatic choke or pin settings. Get a Chilton, find out which idles pin is for what. and play a litle bit.
I think you have a throtle body so I would also check the automatic air intake sensor. It could be going bad. Check your filter and make sure its clean.
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