I have a 1999 Rodeo LSE 4wd that needs new front brake rotors. Is there a trick to getting the old ones off? I removed the front tires and there is a hub in the center. Does the hub have to be removed or should the rotor come off without doing anything to the hub ? It seems a lot more complicated than I was told it would be.

(2WD) L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1) (1991) (2WD) V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1993)
(4WD) V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1993) (4WD) L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1) (1991)
2WD V6-3.2L (2003) 4WD V6-3.2L (2004)
LS 2WD V6-3.2L (1999) LS 2WD V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1997)
LS 4WD V6-3.2L (1998) LSE 2WD V6-3.2L (1999)
LSE 4WD V6-3.2L (2000) S 2WD L4-2.2L (1999)
S 2WD V6-3.2L (1998) S 2WD L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1) (1997)
S 4WD V6-3.2L (1999) S 4WD V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1) (1997)
Sport 2WD V6-3.2L (2001) Sport 2WD L4-2.2L (2002)
Sport 4WD V6-3.2L (2002)

remove tire
remove axle nut
remove 3 bolts holding hub in
sometimes may need to hit hub with hammer after all bolts out to get it to release

It is VERY simple:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Remove 1/2 of the volume of brake fluid from the master cylinder to prevent overflow when the caliper piston is compressed.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
4. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
   
5. Remove the brake caliper without disconnecting the brake line. Support the caliper with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose.
   

Remove the brake caliper mounting bolt and guide bolt and remove the caliper from the mount. The brackets can be removed for additional work space.

YOU REMOVE #2 IN THE DIAGRAM AND LIFT THE CALIPER OFF OF THE ROTOR.

1. Unbolt the caliper and suspend it with a piece of wire. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
   
2. Remove the rotor.
   
3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

CHECK SENSOR ON THE PADS, OR BRAKE SIDE

The engine size don't matter except when you order the parts. First you will want to chock the rear tires. This is a front wheel drive, when you jack the front, park wont work. you should also set the parking brake.
You will want a metric socket set and rachet, and a fairly large flat head screw driver.
Remove the wheel.
When you look at the brakes, you should see 2 bolts holding them on, If they have a star shape that looks like a screw driver might fit in it, it is a torx bit, you will need to replace the wheel and go get one. The guy at the parts store should be able to tell you what size.
I'm pretty sure it is going to be a regular hex nut, probably 12 or 13mm.
You can loosen them, but don't remove them yet.

First you need to depress your caliper. This can be done a couple ways.
I just insert a screw driver between the pad and the rotor(the shiny thing that the pads make contact with.) Carefully pry the inner pad slowly away from the rotor. Don't scratch the rotor, you can dig into the pad all you want, your putting new ones on.
Once the inner pad is all the way in, then you can remove the bolts and the caliper will slide out.
Remove the old pads and replace with the new.
Put the caliper back on, make sure you get the bolts tight.
Do the other wheel the same way.
The other way to get the caliper pushed in, by the way.
Remove the bolts, remove the caliper from the rotor, Use a large "c" clamp to depress the cylinder.

P.S. Do not under any circumstances remove your brake lines.

When you are finished with brakes and have tires replaced....

Caution!!! Before you start your car, pump your brakes a few times. Check your brake fluid. You more than likely wont need any, but you should always check it.
Also, do not add brake fluid before replacing pads, the level is going to be higher with new pads.

Back brakes will be similar if it is disc, if it is drum, do your self a favor and have some one else do it or get a service manual. I could walk you thru it, but you need more tools and you have to adjust them....
Better to pay $100 or so and have it done right.

1999 Taurus/Sable Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc 1999 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 06/25/1998 Disc Removal

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Be careful to avoid damage or interference with caliper bleeder screw fitting and front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).
   

1. CAUTION: Handle front disc brake rotor (1125) and disc brake caliper (2B120) assembly in such a way as to prevent deformation of front disc brake rotor , and nicking, scratching or contamination of brake linings/rotor surfaces.
   NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the front brake hose (2078) .
   
   
   Remove caliper anchor plate bolts and discard. Position disc brake caliper out of the way. Prevent separation of caliper housing from anchor bracket because contamination of guide pin journals can occur.
   

1. NOTE: If excessive force must be used during front disc brake rotor removal, the front disc brake rotor should be checked for runout prior to installation.
   
   
   If additional force is required to remove front disc brake rotor , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor F2AZ-19A501-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A on front and rear rotor/hub mating surfaces. First, strike front disc brake rotor between lug bolts (1107) with a plastic hammer. If this does not work, attach 2-3 Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) assembly by pulling it off the lug bolts.
   

Installation

1. If original front disc brake rotor is being installed, make sure rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean.
   

1. CAUTION: Failure to clean rust and foreign material from rotor and hub mounting faces when installing new or old front disc brake rotors will result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness shudder vibration.
   Apply a small amount of Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to pilot diameter of front disc brake rotor.
   

1. Install front disc brake rotor on wheel hub assembly.
   

1. Install disc brake caliper and new caliper anchor bracket bolts on front disc brake rotor . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: Failure to tighten lug nuts (1012) in a star pattern may result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and vibration.
   Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft) using Rotunda Accutorq® Lug Nut Socket 164-R0303 or equivalent on a 1/2 inch air impact wrench, or use a torque wrench.
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
   

1. Road test vehicle.
   

one gose to the parts store and get the broken part . find the master cylinder reservoir , when at parts store find out what kind it fluid ittakes. refill reservior with brake fluid .put on your safety glasses raise side of that is broken remove wheel , place on jack stand. remove broken part try not to let all the fluid drain from reservior. may have to use a trick or two to get it off but it dose come off , install new one ,check fluid again top off if necessary . IT VERY VERY IMPORTANT IT DOSE NOT RUN DRY. start at the farest brake ,on the back of where the tire gose there is a small nut with a hole running throw it that is called a bleeder valve. 2 people will be needed 1 in the kar and 1 to say hold it back to the back side of tire loosen bleeder nut then re tigthen hand tight.then yell ok the person inthe car will pump the brake paddle 7 to10 ten times slowly press to floor then back up1 one thousand then down again a thousand between each pump. after 7 to 10 pump the car person will yell ok and hold down the brake then the under buddy turns the bleeder nut open,letting out air trapped in the lines repeat until you get a good stream of fluid. move to other side of car, car person will re fill reservoir putting cap back on reservior each filled bleed the brake same way . by this time the paddle should be getting hard not going to the floor. if it is recheck brake line work for leaks . if not game on after back is done recheck fluid move to front .do the one not broken first then broken last paddel should be hard like you have brakes don t forget to top off fluid again . then turn hard. if it is you are done if not look for leak and fix
once the car is in action it may or may not have to be done again goood luck DONOT STRIP BLEEDER NUT

You seem to have more than one problem, first of all the balding tire you have a negative camber problem that can be adjusted by getting a wheel alignment done. The shaking problem while applying brake could mean that you have bad/warped front rotors. It can also mean bad Tie rods. Lastly it can mean that the front tires needs to be high speed balanced. Good Luck

I'm going to assume you are talking about the front brakes since the brake pad warning light is wired to the front drivers side brake pad. Is this is the case you shouldn't put off changing the brake pads and rotors too long after the warning light comes on because you don't want to damage the caliper and cost yourself more money. Do them atleast within the next 500 miles if not earlier. The front brakes on the Jetta are standard single piston disc brakes. Buy decent new brake pads and you might as well buy new rotors instead of getting the old ones turned down (resurfaced, makes them thinner). You should also buy new brake fluid (good stuff) and flush the lines since VW recommends changing it every two years and it keeps the brake system clean and free of corrosion (saves money in the long term). Then you just jack up the vehicle, pop off the tire, loosen the caliper bolts, pull off the caliper making sure to still support it so the brake line doesn't get damaged (rig something up to hang it off the spring on the strut, i.e. bent metal clothes hanger), remove the one screw that holds on the rotor, pull off the old rotor, and remove old pads. There will be a pad sensor wire on the left front that you need to take off too. At this point you might need to push in the caliper piston in order to get the new pads seated correctly. There is no trick on the front calipers like the rear ones (the rear ones need you to turn the piston while pushing it in and is easiest to do with a special tool). You can use and old c-clamp or borrow a caliper tool fron a local auto parts store for the front. You should mount the new rotor first, then you might want to open the brake fluid reservoir (in the engine bay at the back, i.e. closest to cabin, in front of the driver), push the caliper piston back in, mount the new pads by usually sliding them on (use some brake quiet on the back if they don't have anything on them already), and put the caliper back on. The new pads might have the attachment for the sensor. You need to find out all the tightening values for all the bolts you remove and the best way for this is to buy the Bentley factory repair manual for your car (about $80). This will have the procedure I just outlined. It will also tell you how to change the brake fluid. The website forums.tdiclub.com will also have lots of answers for you and probably has pictures on how to do the work. I also recommend worldimpex.com or germanautoparts.com to buy whatever parts you need.

One thing I should mention, the rear brakes in these cars wear out long before the front brakes. If you have never had those serviced you should really look at them too. They may be down to metal on metal if the fronts are worn out.