2003 F250 FX4, 7.3L diesel, auto, 151k miles. Front hubs and seals replaced, front brake rotors and pads replaced. Noise is squeeky see saw at a fast tempo at any speed over 15 mph. Can go away after driving in wet conditions but after it drys out comes back. No performance issues noted.

Check the backing plate/ dust cover on the back side of the rotors. These rust away and cause the same sound.

Most likely causes:
Front wheel hubs need replaced (do both at one time)
Front rotors warped or worn (change rotors and pads both wheels together)

The noise from the brakes dragging or the wheel bearings humming gets picked up by the abs sensors in the hubs before you can hear them. A few hundred miles later, the problem will get worse enough to hear while driving. Wheel hub replacement best done on a lift with an enormous impact wrench.

1. Raise and support the vehicle; Remove the wheel and tire assembly;
2. After removing the tire, remove the brake pads;
3. Remove the disc brake caliper by removing the two disc brake caliper pin bolts. Lift the disc brake caliper from the disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292). If necessary, remove the V-springs.
4. Remove the pads. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate stainless steel rail clips.
5. Remove the rotor.
6. Note: Perform this step for DRW vehicles. Remove the eight hub extender nuts, the hub plate and the rotor. Remove the eight hub plate nuts. Remove the hub plate. Remove the rotor.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

If you look at each brake pad you will see a difference between the outer and inner pad. The outer pad has a metal squealer part that sticks away from the pad material. Each squealer is intended to rub the Rotor when the material on the pad is worned off.

I think you may have both outer pads on the left side. Looking at your grooved Rotor, you should be able to see what is sticking out and hitting it. The new Caliper can be sticking, and if it is defective, you should be compensated new pads for the damage it caused and a Rotor.

Now when you decided to replace the Caliper, there must have been a reason. Did you check the front hub bearing when the Rotor was off? A bad bearing will cause a Rotor to run tilted or offset if there is enough play in it. You are going to check the pads, you should check the CV joint and the Hub bearing for roughness.

The idea of a bad brake line is not impossible. The theory on them is that your Brake line has several thousands of pounds of pressure to expand the Caliper piston and only Gravity and suction to take the pressure off. In theory, the brake line is like a one way valve if it is failing.

I would like to know how you made out on this. I had a time with my personal truck brakes. A broken front brake line led to $700 in parts and my own labor. Every brake line on my truck broke on one end, so I know what you mean about added expenses. You just have to keep going until the vehicle is right.

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual




Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal

1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.
   
   Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
   

Did you have the rotors turned? Did you check for rotor runout? Did you remove all rust from hub face and rotor mounting surface? Did you remove rust from caliper or pad slides? Lube all caliper and pad sliding surfaces? Are the pads application specific? Did you flush and bleed the fluid? Did you torque the wheels properly?

Why would you put tape on the rotors when doing brakes? Once calipers are removed, rotors come right off. Never saw any seal on rotors and don't know what a seal would do there....Unless it's put there on assembly line to keep rotor from falling off? I wouldn't be concerned.

BMW rotors are not known for lasting very much more than 30-45k miles. When the brakes are inspected, they measure the pads using a special tool threw the outer brake pad. Min spec is 3mm. When the pads are replaced, they measure the thickness of the rotors. The rotor spec is stamped on the rotor. if they are under that spec, they recommend replacing them as well. Next time you bring it in for service, just ask them to measure the rotor thinkness, (its not a huge task, all they have to do is take the wheels off). But more often than not, the rotors wear just as fast as the pads.

It may be caused by Disc Thickness Variation, which occurs when the pads brush the sides of an out of alignment rotor. Also, it could be that the rotors need to be resurfaced due to poor surface finish. I have also seen that when the brakes drag on the pads (DTV) that any pad dust will collect in the low spots and squeal after braking. I would recommend dropping the calipers and thoroughly cleaning the rotors and pads off with warm soapy water and a rag. I don't recommend brake cleaner or silencing sprays because they just add un-needed material to a contact surface and can actually cause noise and prevent full pad contact.

See HERE for troubleshooting information from English Brake Corp.

See HERE for Tech Questions answered from Bendix Corp.

I can also suggest checking the hub face with a roller-tipped dial indicator gauge to confirm that it doesn't have any lateral run-out. Run-out of over .002" would be out of spec.

HOPE THIS HELPS!!! Please don't forget to rate!

Thanks -

Its has to come of from the back. Is a 45 min job in at the dealer, so it is a big job. All the bolts for taking it off are in the back,plus you have to take every thing of thats in the way, tire rod end, etc.