keeps pulling codes po172 and po175
The PCm has determined that during testing, ther fuel system for bank 2 was too rich. Can anyone know the solution?
I have seen 2 things that cause this on the V6 6VE1 petrol engine, one could be a pin hole in the fuel pressure regulator diaphram causing fuel to be sucked into intake manifold. the other is a bad wire crimp joint for main earths which is in main wiring loom under injector rail on left bank between the first and second injector (black wires with black tape that has all white sticky stuff under it) take wires out of plastic tubing to find splice joint remove sticky gooie tape and clean with electrical contact spray and dry then soilder joint and re tape up. can confirm this fault by pulling moving loom when engine running and noting readings changing on scan tool for O2 sensors and possibly engine running rough then good.
should then reset fuel trim cells with scan tool after either repair then watch the short and long term fuel trims they wont be as high as they were which would have been 25% or higher to bring on check engine light and set your rich fuel trim codes.
Dear Steve: I have petrol 2000 Isuzu Trooper 6VE1 MT w/ 141,000 miles. One day after pulling off highway after 100km run, engine started misfiring (coded #4 misfire) and belching white smoke from exhaust. Pulled spark wire from #4 and no change in engine performance (i.e. it got no worse still missing - but I confirmed spark to #4 and all others). I limped home 100km slowly with check engine light flashing. I presumed it was bad head gasket (white smoke) and although I saw no oil in coolant or evidence of water in oil I went ahead and pulled heads and replaced both head gaskets. Problem went away for a while, but returned in a month (misfire/smoke smelling of raw fuel). I thought injector might be stuck open, so I replaced all 6 injectors and fuel pressure regulator. Now I am getting P0172/175 codes and random misfire code, but no smoke. I replaced exhaust system and all 4 O2 sensors. Spark plug in #4 looked wet (with oil and/or gas) and compression in #4 tested lower than rest and improved with oil squirt. I strobe tested injector in #4 and it blinks like the others, but under stethoscope No. 4 sounds "different" from other five - #4 seems not to be "hammering" like the others, just rhythmic "whooshing/pulsing". Could the "bad wire crimp joint for main earths" you describe above be causing this i.e. keeping #4 open (or open too long because of short) ...and washing cylinder....causing misfire and poor compression? If not I suppose it could be stuck ring(s) in #4. Any ideas? I am going to do a fuel pressure test to see if rail pressure bottoms out quickly after shut off next. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
sounds like it could be an injector issue.
when doing fuel rail pressure leak off test make sure the fuel pressure doesn't drop straight away, if it does the pressure regulator can be faulty. then you carefully clamp of return line once pressure is up while gauge is fitted to rail. you can do this with the rail & injectors are out just sitting in place & put paper under injector tips to see if injector leaks.
have you put the coil over plug into different cylinder to see if miss fire happens to that other cylinder now?
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P0172 & P0175 codes, 02 Sensor rich does, left & right bank fuel being leaned off by up to 20%, engine revs dropping & regaining at traffic lights then engine stalls
I also have code PO172 and PO175 also PO101Ive replaced the mass airflow regulator still no help. When I first start the Rodeo and put it in reverse it dies. Once I wait and start and rev it for a little while and put it directly in drive it will work. Then about 2 weeks later it starts all over again. Every mechanic I have taken it to, because the check engine light is not on at the time say we have no idea why this is happening. when I do get the chekc engine light I get the codes as stated above. Any help...Any would be fantastic.Thanks Dana [email protected]
If been battling similar problems. Rich as I could smell the fuel overload. I tried idle solenoid,air flow sensor,cleaned throttle body & sensors,plugs etc. Wouldn't idle properly & started coughing under load.iv just stalled it by disconnecting the air flow sensor near the filter. Plugged it back in & so far so good.i reset the idle solenoid by reoving it & pulling the valve out enough that it touched/seated when fitted in place & screwed the unit back in. Turn key to power on then off. Do this a couple of times before starting up. Fingers crossed.
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