How to keep my 1997 j30 in good running condition

An engine that will crank but not start can be tricky to diagnose. First, we can rule out the battery, starter and circuits in-between due to the cranking condition. The three areas to focus our attention on are compression, spark and fuel. Generally speaking, a compression gauge should show each cylinder at above 100 PSI for an engine to run. Low compression would have to be present across all cylinders (or at least one bank on a v-shaped engine) to generate a no-start condition which would be indicative of a timing belt or other mechanical issue. Next, a spark tester should show ignition spark present while the engine is cranking. With a coil-on-plug (COP) setup it would be inconceivable for all six plugs or coils to fail simultaneously, therefore if spark is not present it would point to a crankshaft position sensor (CKP) or other control-side issue. Lastly, there is the fuel system which is two-fold; fuel supply and fuel delivery. Fuel supply is the fuel pump which takes fuel from the tank and supplies it to the fuel rail at the engine. The fuel pump should prime (turn on for a few seconds) when the key is cycled on. Fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail for proper operation or alternatively a flammable aerosol such as starting fluid can be sprayed into the intake while cranking to see if the engine runs. Fuel delivery on the other hand consists of the fuel injectors which must be modulated. Much like the ignition coils it is not likely to have six injectors fail at once, therefore if fuel is not injecting into the intake it would point to a camshaft position sensor (CMP) or other control-side issue. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2619-obd-ii-trouble-code-crank-position-signal-output-circuit-open-by-valerie-johnston

Why do you think this is due to your cassette player? Is it not powering off when you shut down the car? If so, try removing the fuse to the radio until you can get a replacement.

do a pin test on fuses one of them is blown! look in your service manual for loction

1. Remove the fan blade.
2. Remove the air induction pump.
3. Loosen up the alternator.
4. Remove that belt.
5. Lower coolant.
6. Remover water pump neck housing.
7. Now you can access the thermostat.

• Hope this helps.

I would suggest you check the idler pully that tensions the belt that runs the AC compressor. It is very common for the bearing in those to go bad. Beyond that, inspect and correct tension on the other two belts. Verify that both the alternator and water pump turn freely prior to re-installing the belts. NOTE: the are some older Nissan cars that have that same idler pully and the price will be far less dear than what Infiniti will charge you for it.

Under hood, center, upper engine area, mounted in front of intake manifold.

It should look like this. The left/dark part of the sensor is the connector and the reddish part screws into the engine component

Take it in and get the "code read". It is on for a reason, and will not go off til the problem is fixed and the code cleared out.

look inside the driverside door and it should tell you there

problems yes low high and high low are usually caused by faulty defective clutch coil or defective thermostat...electrical issues can be cycling switch pressure switches ambient air sensor or fin switch ( evap temp sensor)
Mechanically it could be clutch,or compressor the symptoms are not good... srry hit me back if you got some manual gauges and wanna run pressure test diagnostics..

There is no reserve. You will need to add it at the dipstick.