The o-ring goes onto the top caliper bolt.
Both retaining bolts actually have them. Sometimes one or both will come out with the bolt. They are meant to keep the bolts from coming out completely as this is normally not required to remove the caliper. Check the holes and you should find the other one in place. The bolt you have the O-Ring on should go in the hole that doesn't still have the o-ring inside.
Front Brake Caliper: All But FLSTS/FXSTS
Remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap to be able to check the fluid level as the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper because the fluid level may rise more than the 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from the top level and you may have to remove some excess fluid if it does so. THEN loosen but do not remove both pad pins with a 12 point one quarter inch socket. THEN remove both metric caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc and pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons into their bores. THEN once the pistons have been retracted, remove the pad pins and the brake pads.
Although the front and rear brake calipers except FXSTD models, use the same exact brake pad set the FXSTD does not and the FXSTD rear pads have a vertical slot cut into the pads. Be sure NOT to substitute front and/or rear brake pads for the other on these bikes. On the right side of the vehicle the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper.
THEN install new pads into the caliper noting that the curved portion of the pad faces to the rear of the bike, and loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click from them. THEN re-attach the caliper to front fork, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long caliper mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork le, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt also to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the two pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN and whenever new pads are installed, before moving the bike pump the brakes until brake fluid pushes the caliper pistons and the pads out and verify that the pads are against the brake disc and then rotate the wheel to ensure there is not any excessive drag between the pads and the disc, check for proper fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary top it up with DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid only, install the reservoir cover and tighten its screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm).
THEN and whenever any work has been done on brakes always test the brakes at low speed before operating on a roadway or at higher speeds. THEN test brake system light and if during the road test the brakes feel spongy at all bleed the system and after obtaining a hard lever or pedal road test the bike again.
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Negative, one bolt has three flattened sides with no o-ring and the other bolt is perfectly round with an o-ring at the very end. I just purchased two new bolts because I stripped the head on a couple of bolts, and they are the same as the orginal bolts that came in the car. Only on has an o-ring on it. I also, checked inside both holes and there is no other o-ring inside.
Negative, one bolt has three flattened sides
with no o-ring and the other bolt is perfectly round with an o-ring at
the very end. I just purchased two new bolts because I stripped the
head on a couple of bolts, and they are the same as the orginal bolts
that came in the car. Only on has an o-ring on it. I also, checked
inside both holes and there is no other o-ring inside.
How to install 2001 mitsubishi diamante front brake caliper pins. One pin has a rubber o-ring at the very end and is totally round, the other has 3 flatten sides and does not contain an o-ring. Does it matter which one goes in the upper caliper hole or the bottom hole?
No, I never got a satisfactory answer.
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