When engine gets real warm it will cut off

These are ideas only as there are many things that could improve gas mileage.
When was the last time you had a tune up? (Spark plugs check for bad sensors . When was the Air filter changed..
do you always check the air pressure in the tires. Low tires can bring your mileage down five miles per gallon or more.
Do you drive with fast starts and stops.
Do you run short trips? Short trips does not let the engine warm up to the right traveling temperature. I live in town and I get about 15 miles per gallon in town but if I drive 20 miles or more I get 24 or more with my Buick.
You will get less mileage if you drive in real cold weather.

This happened to my 95 Royale while driving around town. I checked the battery terminals and one was slightly loose. After tightening it, no more dying.

Sounds like thermostat is stuck open. What brand did you use? If it's a fail safe, that's your problem. They usually go to fail safe even without an overheat condition right away and lock full open.

That seems pretty normal, the heater works by blowing excess heat from the engine coolant. So the coolant has to be warmed completely for the heat to work, you can get a heater that plugs into your cigarette lighter that will heat the vehicle instantly.

Hello,
my advise to you is that:
Your VW problem is the throttle body, (good news) it doesn't need replacement, it only needs to be cleaned out, and even better if a good technician (know what he is doing) can run an adaptation procedure.
this will restore the ZERO position for the TPS and relearn the target engine idle speed.
Good luck.
Note: you are in my prayer.

My van cuts off after driving on a long stretch of highway. Around town it does pretty good. It starts back up after ten or fifteen mins. I changed the oil, oil filter, coil pack new spark plugs, and fuel fliter. It still does it. Does any one know what this could be???? O its a 2001 dodge caravan

check for a blown fuse under the hood, for the engine computer. also check other electrical components, like head lamps, radio.

A lot of suburus have a horizontal engine configuration. This leak could be from a number of places. I would dry all the coolant off that you can see, then let it sit for a while and try to trace it back to it's origin. Driving it will blow the coolant all over, so ideally letting it run for a while in the driveway, or garage after cleaning it will be better than driving it around town. Once you have an origin, such as a hose, a frost plug, from between the head and the block, etc. Then we can help you get if narrowed down further.

po352 is ignition coil B primary/secondary circuit malfunction---ignition coil #2----p0300 is random /multible cylinder missfire, muti cylinder missfire detected!!

Hi

From what I can gather, the engine cuts out and then the check engine light comes on, not the other way around, check engine light and then cut out?

If you switch on the ignition but do not start the engine, you will see that the check engine light is on. It won't go out until you start the engine.

When the engine cuts out, it is just as though you have switched on the ignition without starting the engine, the key is in the exact same position, and therefor the check engine light comes on purely and simply because the engine isn't running, not because it has sensed a problem, hence you have no fault codes, its perfectly normal.

If, however, the light comes on then the engine cuts out, then the reason for the lack of codes could be a short term electrical failure. If the power to the ECM were briefly cut then the codes would be erased immediately, but this would have to be a complete failure because there is a KAM (Keep Alive Memory) wire, which supplies permanent power to the ECM if I'm not mistaken. A good candidate for a complete failure is a bad main ground cable (loose or broken).

Wiring problems a just the worst ever to trace.

Just a thought to hopefully point you in the right direction.

Very best regards

Geordie