Why do I hear air under my dash when I push the break on, and the breaks are hard to push.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the booster assembly from the vehicle and quickly install the new one.



Get the master cylinder back on the studs of the booster and reconnect the hydraulic lines.



Tighten the nuts on the mater cylinder and reinstall the nuts inside the car as well as the pushrod.



Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).



Bleed the brake system. Hopefully you only have a little air at the connections. Make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Have someone hold the brake pedal down while you crack open the hydraulic fittings (one at a time) at the master cylinder to let any air out. The assistant should not let up on the pedal until you have re-tightened the fitting. Repeat this process until no air comes out. If you do not get a hard pedal after this procedure, let me know and I will send instructions for a full systen bleed.



If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.



REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Chassis Electrical .
Disconnect the vacuum hose at the booster.
Remove the brake pedal-to-booster link pin and the 4 nuts retaining the booster. The pushrod and nuts are located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel. Sorry I don't have a picture of this.
Remove the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder on. Use a line wrench to disconnect the hydraulic fittings. If you don't have a line wrench, use an open-end wrench, but be careful not to strip the fittings. Plug the brake lines immediately with a plastic or rubber plug. If it leaks a little, that's OK as long as it doesn't go dry (else you will have to bench bleed the master). Disconnect any wires that might be attached to the master cylinder, and remove the master cylinder. Place the master cylinder in a clean, protected location out of the work area.
Remove the booster assembly from the vehicle and quickly install the new one.
Get the master cylinder back on the studs of the booster and reconnect the hydraulic lines.
Tighten the nuts on the mater cylinder and reinstall the nuts inside the car as well as the pushrod.
Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
Bleed the brake system. Hopefully you only have a little air at the connections. Make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Have someone hold the brake pedal down while you crack open the hydraulic fittings (one at a time) at the master cylinder to let any air out. The assistant should not let up on the pedal until you have re-tightened the fitting. Repeat this process until no air comes out. If you do not get a hard pedal after this procedure, let me know and I will send instructions for a full systen bleed.
If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

Got it ! I think I can do this, when it warms up a bit. I want to thank you so much for all your help, and step by step instructions on how to fix my booster problem. Again Thank You so much.

Regina Thomas Got it ! I think I can do this, when it warms up a bit. I want to thank you so much for all your help, and step by step instructions on how to fix my booster problem. Again Thank You so much. Regina Thomas