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The egr valve is located on the rear of the intake manifold and easiest fix is at a shop by a certified tech. there is alot of removing of engine related items to gain access to the valve.
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For an EGR code, I would have looked at the EGR valve, wiring to it, and the catalytic converters first. The only other thing I can think of is the programming for PCM. I think you may have a wiring problem, keeping the EGR valve or throttle open. You need to find another shop to go to. You should complain to the shops you payed good money to, that didn't fix the problem. Get your money back. I'm not a point and guess car electrician. I get 2 hours to diagnose. 2 hours shop rate. I have a 95% success on fixing problems. The first time. The other 5% is major wiring issues.
The vacuum line on top of the EGR is required for propper vehicle operation. The vacuum line is what opens the valve when the solenoid is comanded on. As for the MAP sensor check the injector/MAP sensor harness right by the driver side corner of the rear head. The harness tends to melt and cause rough running conditions and misfires. So would the EGR which is a common issue and yes the the whole assembly should be replaced.
Check your spark plugs(including the gap) and wires to ensure you are getting good combustion. Also you may have a slightly clogged EGR valve. You can test the diaphram in the valve with a hand vacuum pump. Also sometimes you can take the EGR valve off clean out the carbon and put it back in without having to replace it. This is where I would begin, hope it helps.
The Vehicle would only stop, if the EGR stuck open,momentary at low speed,and dumped too much exhaust into the intake. The entire EGR Valve ,if bad, needs to be changed. The sensor is part of it. Have her find a good shop or a friend do it at home. Pretty easy.
I served in Viet Nam-so take it slow,and be safe
I have the 2005 Town & Country TOURING . If my memeory serves me correct, I believe this was the same code that I got on time. The van didn't seem to drive any different but this is what I did and I haven't seen the light come on since.
first I went to the dealer ( you can get these parts from a auto parts house also) and bought the 3 gaskets total.for the the EGR solenoid vavle assembly where it bolts on to the engine ( that gasket was made from metal), NOTICE AN INDENTATION IN THE METAL GASKET WHEN YOU TAKE IT OFF,YOU WILL WANT TO PLACE THE NEW GASKET IN THE SAME DIRECTION. one gasket that goes between the EGR valve solenoid and the small stand pipe. and another gasket that goes between the stand pipe and where it connects to the plastic valve intake area cover on top of the engine.
I took the EGR solenoid off from the engine and took it apart (reall carefully) and cleaned it thouroughly with a spray carbuerator cleaner. I took mine "completely apart" after I did this I dont recommend to do this again, you can damage the coil inside if you're not cafefully. I suggest just cleaning the valve and plunger ports, etc....
When it was completely dry I reinstalled the EGR solenoid on the van making sure I used ALL NEW GASKETS. The van hasn't produced the engine light since. I hope this helps.
No Biggy.. Get them to install a DPFE sensor,, ( its the one that regulates the EGR valve ) Most ppl mistake a 1409 Code as Being EGR and it is kinda.. but when the valve maint fails.. its almost always the DPFE sensor.. Try that and lemmie know
The egr valve is pluged up from carbon build up and it quit functioning. take it off clean it up, and also inside of intake with a screwdriver and shop vac. and then purchase a new gasget thats like a screen, they sell them at autozone and put it back on. the screen gasget is for any chunk that you missed in intake and trys to plug up the egr valve again.
I had the same problem with my van, it turned out to be the EGR valve (emissions-gasoline-regulator) valve. It cost about $65, but well worth it!!! About a 20 min. job
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