P/S advice on R/R PIT ARM---no problem on removing from steering assembly but it refuses to budge from steering center link. Do you know of a puller that might work

indicates that the spider gears in the diff have a slight wear in the thrust washers and the tooth clearance is at max limit
nothing to be overly concerned about as those gears ony work when turning a corner or differences in road surfaces between sides of wheels or in a bog situation
in driving straight ahead they seldom turn
check for problem cv or drive line "U" joints in the drive shafts

There are many reasons for this problem. Check the following: Tire size and inflation, tie-rods, wheels bearings, ball-joints, center link, pit-man arm, alignment, twin-beam bushings, broken spring, sticking brake caliper, worn or loose steering box, cracked frame, worn, loose, or defective steering column components. I hope this information helps, please let me know what it was, good luck.

Idler arm and or pitman arm most common.could also be excessive play in steering gear box.Tie rods/center link but usually its my first 2 choices go bad bothe of them idler and pitman common wear parts.

It's an easy but physically demanding if you do not have a pneumatic set of tools. The specialty tools you will first have to get your hands on are a Tie Rod remover. otherwise know as a (pickle fork). There are two sizes of these large for ball joint removal and small for Tie rod removal. Looks like a big 2 pronged fork. The next Tool is a Pitman arm remover. Usually you can rent or barrow them from your local auto parts store. Drive your blazer up on to a set of repair ramps. Block the rear tires.The bolt to the center link from the pitman arm has a crown nut on it with a cotter pin going threw it. Remove the cotter pin.and remove the crown nut. Then with the Pickle fork and a 5 lb. sledge hammer. place the pickle fork between the center link and the pitman arm bolt. Give the end of the Pickle fork as many good blows on the other end as it takes for the center link to release from the pitman arm. Once that is done take a break I know you'll need it. Next is the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft. Hope you can get your hands on a good breaker bar or an impact wrench and a socket large enough for the steering gear shaft nut. Remove the nut. Then place the Pitman arm removal tool between the pitman arm and the steering gear housing. Start tightening the threaded rod the remover up against the shaft. It is hard as hell to remove because pitman arms rarely go bad. It's usually the center link that fails.It will take a lot of strength to remove and you may want to use a little penetrating lube on it. Once you get that off you may want to replace the steering gear shaft seal as well. Otherwise just reverse the removal steps. The shaft is notched and so is the pitman are make sure they line up. then Torque to spec.s If you plan on keeping the blazer get a repair manual from your auto parts store. It will help you put a great deal.

Your old unit was worn. After getting it aligned with the old arm and then properly replacing it, its installed slightly off center. Time for an alignment. I'd have it done anyways. Always have after replacing a major component. Good luck!

Hi.




1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove tire and wheel assembly, then install modified outer seal protector No. J34754, or equivalent, Fig.3 .
3. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut, then loosen ball joint from steering knuckle using tool No. J-29330, or equivalent.
4. Position a suitable pry bar between suspension support and lower control arm and separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle. On some models, it may be necessary to remove nut attaching link to stabilizer shaft.
5. Locate center of rivet body and mark with a center punch.
6. Using a 1/8 inch drill, drill pilot holes completely through rivets. Using a 1/2 inch drill, drill final holes through rivets to ensure fitting of new ball joint.
7. Remove ball joint from lower control arm.
8. Assemble new ball joint to lower control arm with bolts provided in service package, Fig.9 . Tighten bolts to specifications.
9. Insert ball joint stud into steering knuckle and tighten nut to specifications, then install cotter pin.
10. Install wheel and tire and check front wheel alignment.

I hope this helps you.

Thanks.

The easiest way is also the messiest.
Remove pit-man arm nut,Mark the pit-man arm and shaft with a colored marker,to assure you reinstall the arm in the correct position.use a pit-man arm puller to remove pi-man arm.When you get off the shaft,swing it out of your way,leaving the other end connected.Looking up in the steering box you will see a snap ring that you need to remove.When you get it out of there,reinstall the pit-man arm and nut to the correct position but don't tighten completely.Now refill the power steering box with fluid and put the cap back on the steering box.Put a pan under the pitman arm to catch the fluid.Start the engine and turn the steering in one direction as sharp as it will go,you'll here it in a bind but hold it tight,Then turn the steering wheel the complete opposite direction and turn it tight.This will use the power steering to blow the seals out!
Shut engine off,look under car and your seals will be pushed out but held in place by the pitman arm you reinstalled.Now you can remove the arm and REMEMBER how they came out,just incase there is no picture instruction with your new seal kit.

Power Steering Gear Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Raise and safely support vehicle.
2. Remove left wheel assembly.
3. Matchmark pitman arm and shaft for installation.
4. Remove cotter pin and nut at center link.
5. Use ball joint splitter to separate pitman arm from center link.
6. Disconnect pressure hose at damping pipe and drain fluid into suitable container.
7. Disconnect suction hose from pipe assembly and drain fluid into suitable container.
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Remove coolant recovery tank.
10. Remove power steering reserve tank.
11. Disconnect damping pipe from steering gear.
12. Remove return hose from top of reserve tank.

Hope this pic works

take a 3 to 5 pound hammer strrike the center link around the outside circle where the idler arm goes through three good blows usually does it. alternative use a tie rod/ ball joint seperator available at any good parts store. a hammer always worked for me

Special tool needed.... Looks like a large heavy u-shaped steel bracket with a screw in center. You must remove nut from pit arm bolt, install tool and turn big center screw to apply pressure to yoke on gear box. The hooks will lock onto the arm and pressure against the yoke will remove the arm.