No power to my coil - 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

The proper procedure is to first check that the coil is getting power to the positive side of the coil with key in on. It must show power.

If the coil has power to it, then check if the controlling device is turning the primary to the coil off and on-this is what the Ignition control module (ICM) does. Or in some cases a "power transistor" is used to control the coil primary (some imports, for instance).

The ecu signals the ICM (or the power transistor) when it wants the coil to deliver a secondary surge through the coil leading to a spark. The ecu (or pcm) must get a signal from the crank position sensor so it knows when to time the spark.
So if no spark, check if coil primary has power, then check secondary coil operation-if no secondary (no spark), possibly bad coil, bad ICM, or missing the crank position sensor signal.

By power to coil do you mean spark comes out of coil tower or only the feed wire to the coil has power ? If only the feed wire has power the coil may be bad. Which engine do you have ?

The PCM doesn't supply power to the coil's ,it supply's a ground . A fuse supply's B+ power to the coil's . Your vehicle has what is called coil on plug ignition system , a coil for each cylinder . Should have plug wires ,has a spark plug boot . IT is common for these coil on plug system's to fry the driver (transistor) inside the PCM ,if the spark plug gap becomes so worn that the spark can not jump said gap. It shorts inside the coil sending high voltage to the PCM driver . There are video's on youtube showing how to test a PCM driver circuit . Your coil has two wires , one should have B+ voltage an the other goes to the PCM . If your coil fried i look for a short to ground on the control side circuit . This video is for a ford 5.4 l V-8 coil on plug system ,same thing just 2 more coils .
Ford 5 4 shorted coil primary winding and bad computer driver

The PCM does not power the coils, it only controls the ground circuit.

check and replace the cable connecting the distributor and coil

can you put up engine model number may be able to help from this number.

I'll try to help you, John.
For spark: If your spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor are good, check the coil. Take off the negative battery cable. Use an ohmmeter and check resistance between the coil primary positive terminal and the frame of the coil-ohmmeter should show infinite resistance, if not, replace coil. Put ohmmeter positive lead on coil primary positive terminal, and ohmmeter negative lead on coil primary negative terminal-resistance should be zero or nearly zero, if not, replace coil. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to the negative primary terminal and ohmmeter positive lead to the high voltage terminal of the coil. Ohmmeter should not show infinite resistance, if it does, replace coil.
If coil is good (or has been swapped), check that coil primary has power to it with key on. If it does, and no spark, the problem could be the ignition module or the pickup coil. The ignition module should be mounted with the ignition coil. The pickup coil is inside the distributor-this pickup coil is what tells the computer (ecu) the crankshaft position, so is critical for spark timing.

For the pump: the fuel pump relay is in the power distribution box under the hood. When the ignition switch's run wire energizes the relay's coil, power is sent to the pump. You could check for a signal on the pump wire at the tank, with the engine cranking Should be a steady signal then. If not, pull the relay out to check that the power feed for the pump is still there. The power to the relay comes from Fuse link G, a 20 amp rated green fuse link. It is hot at all times, so check for a power signal on one of the relay terminals with key off. One terminal should have power. If not, check fuse link G. If it does have power, put relay back in and have someone cycle the key-relay should click-may feel or hear it. If nothing, try a different relay. If relay was good, but no power to pump, pull relay and check terminals that relay plugs into: with key held in crank, two terminals at relay should have power-the power feed from fuse link G, and now the ignition switch signal to the relay coil side. If all checks out, probably a bad pump. If you checked for power at the tank with the engine cranking, and did have power, that is for sure a pump that needs replacing.
Good luck.

You state first that you do not have power going to your coils and then you state not 12 volts power comes from your coils.If it is before coils check for fuse or ECM. If it is after coils check your coils.

Breeze, 4 cylinder: check fuse # 5 (20a), fuse #1 (10a), fuse # 10 (10a)- in the power distribution box. Check for power to the coil on the dark green wire with orange stripe. If power there, test the coil. If coil is good, suspect the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor.
Breeze, 6 cylinder: check fuse # 5 (20a), fuse # 10 (10a). Check for power to coil on the dark green wire with orange stripe. If no power to coil, try a new or known good Auto Shutdown Relay (in the power distribution center). If still no power to coil, may be a problem in wiring harness. If there is power to coil, and still no spark, test the coil. If coil is good, suspect the cam position sensor (in the distributor), or the crank position sensor. If all check good, may be a problem in the wiring or the pcm (computer).
Good luck.

Power to the coil..
No power coming out of coil ?
The coil needs to be replaced..

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