My 87 toyota pu 4x4 22r has low power bad gas mileage compression is 151 top compression is 171 8000 miles on a rebuild motor t

with that low mileage will assume its a newer model and not a classic
what year is it

ticking noise with low oil most likely the hydraulic tappets
they can be replaced

only older models are old school manual adjusted tappets

any other problems with the caddy
is it being serviced regularly ?
need to check for engine oil leaks or why the oil was low
maybe a oil pump or oil filter check

find another mechanic and get his diagnosis
a cylinder compression test and engine oil pressure test
is done before any engine rebuild would be considered

unless run without engine oil or totally over heated
52 000 miles on any cady motor it is no where near and engine rebuild



the tappets

There is always a better alternative than the dealership as far as costs. They want to put a new motor in a 2003 model? That is ridiculous to me- cost-prohibitive. Find a reputable independent shop. Look for references and customer satisfaction. A used, low mileage replacement engine is a better alternative, probably less than half the cost of a new engine.
There may be an even better alternative, where you refurbish the top end of the engine-the cylinder head and valve train. This is dependent on that a wet-dry compression test supports rebuilding the top end. What I mean by this is a compression test of the cylinders reveals low compression in one or more cylinders, okay. Next, they would squirt some oil (about a tablespoon) in the low cylinders and check compression again. If compression doesn't change, it points to the valves and valve train (the valve guides which wear and could let oil into the cylinder). But if compression is higher in the wet test, then the piston rings are worn and losing compression, and oil gets past them-this would indicate the engine needs a complete rebuild or a replacement is called for. The reason for the wet test is that the oil will temporarily seal around the piston rings and improve compression if the rings are the problem.
If the test shows the valves are the problem (and it is very possible on an engine with only 120K-your bottom end could be fine), then a top end rebuild of the engine is a much cheaper route than any other choices. You may not know this, but often a little oil burning in the cylinders at start-up is nothing more than the valve stem rubber seals are deteriorated-a real cheap fix. The dealership probably won't tell you this. However, with the loss of power, well, that points to something more severe than valve stem seals. So I would recommend the wet compression test, just to check if it is the top end or the bottom end. If it's the top end, you could have the cylinder head reconditioned and motor along for a few more years, trouble free.
Similar to a compression test, a "leak down" test of the cylinders is actually a more accurate method of finding where compression is lost, and it's only a one step test. They hold compressed air in the cylinder and analyze where it escapes to pinpoint compression loss. Loss of compression translates into loss of power. Have either test done before you decide. Find a good mechanic and trust his advice. (Stay far away from dealers. Greed is their motivating factor.)

Check the TPS, (throttle position sensor), and the IAC, (idle air control motor), for proper operation. Rebuild TBI unit if necessary. Kits are available aftermarket.

A new engine would be about 180 psi for each cylinder. As the miles add up and wear occurs, compression will get lower. The important thing is that compression is even and balanced-lowest compression reading should be within 75% of the highest cylinder's compression. Some Toyota engines had a minimum allowable compression of about 135 psi, but if compression is balanced, you could have average compression as low as 125 psi and engine would still run good, some loss of power but still acceptable, and oil consumption would not be that bad.
If cylinder compression is below 120 psi as an average, you should be looking into a rebuild event-rings and valves need attention. If any cylinder is below 100 psi, it may not even fire, certainly will produce no power, and could be a head gasket failure, very worn rings, or valve problems.
Remember the important thing is to find compression readings that are very close to each other. I have an '87 Sentra with 75,000 miles(true!)-lowest comp. is 160, highest is 165 psi-runs great, good power. Also a '79 Datsun pickup (with god only knows how many miles-about 200,000 maybe). Compression is about 125-135 psi, fairly well balanced-noticeable loss of power, very little oil burning, still runs fair to good-dependable, at least.
That should give you an idea of what to look for. Good luck.

High on mileage means that the engine has done a lot of work, possible that the compression is down, need to check if this is below level, if there is oil used in excess then the engine needs an overhauling subject to the cost estimated.

Cant compromise on bad fuel as this will bring down the power of the engine.
High fule consumption means poor setting so fuel and ignition , check fuel settings- pump calibration and timing.

What grade of fuel are you using? There are many conditions that effect gas mileage. The way a vehicle is driven, is it shifting correctly, flooring it to get up to speed from dead stop also known as Jack Rabbit starts, driving with the defroster on when it isn't needed or the setting just above that can be used. Back in the 90's most car manufacturers made a change to their heating.cooling system that caused the AC compressor to kick in when the selector was set to defrost. This puts drag on teh motor and decreases gas mileage. Build up on valves and low compression in the firing cylinders will cause you to lose gas mileage as well. Do a compression check on the motor to make sure you don't have abnormally high compression or low compression on cylinders and use a bottle of gas treatment in your fuel to clean some of the carbon build up from injectors and valves. Also start using the Mid grade fuel. Not the High Octane in your area. In Texas we typically have 3 choices 87, 89 and 93 to choose from. Low grade is enough to run the vehicle but performance is low as well as mileage. I use the 89 octane for better performance and better mileage. The High Octane or 93 isn't really good as it leads to higher carbon build up on the valves. Also check your oil often and make sure your changing it every 4000 miles at the longest. All of this along with making sure you change the Air Filter every 5000 miles will increase your mileage.

replace fuel filter and tune up

well to me that is not very good mileage . have you had the vehicle long ? also did it get better mileage when it was newer ? how about plugs wires etc what has been changed and tuned up ? I would think it would get better than that alot of bigger pickups get that good or better.hows your driving habits ? Jerry

Please drop the glove compartment and you will see the fuses and relays to exchange...
That is for Toyota pickups....!!!!

Replace the number one injector; it is sticking open.