Question about 2003 Toyota RAV4

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My 2003 rav 4 4wd is actinmg strangely, sometimes if u r driving, n depress the gas pedal, it doesnt respond, but the rpm continues 2 increase, till after abt 4 secs, it wud kick in, with a soft thump n the car will now accelarate!...this haoppens intermittently..what cud be wrong with it?

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  • zubaimania Jan 10, 2011

    ok, thanks,
    but after going through the web, i came across a post on rav4world, where symptoms somewhat similar 2 mine are diagnoised as having the ecm/transmission problem that most 01 - 03 rav4's usually develop,
    am wondering if its the issue that am experiencing.
    when i put the car in reverse, it usually kicks in with a muffled thumping sound , like something just kicked in n the intermittent loss of power wch happens infrequently while driving.
    pls advise.

    nb. my tranny fluid is dark/dirty red...

  • zubaimania Jan 13, 2011

    changed the transmission fluid...apart from some sludge at the bootom, the fluid was relatively clean, the problem still persists.

    went ahead to also change the air filter as some peeps suggested, yet the problem is still there..

    now the error code p0755 n p1155 has popped up

  • zubaimania Jan 13, 2011

    changed out the tranny fluid, apart 4rm some gunk at the bottom, the fluid was fairly ok. but the prob still persists.
    also changed out the air filter, but the problem still persists...n now error codes p1135 n p0755 have popped up.

    am not so sure what 2 do next

  • bob reyes
    bob reyes Jan 09, 2018

    the ecm module you have to replace

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Sounds like transmission fluid and filter needs changing. It's one of the most overlooked maintenance items. Trans fluid and filter should be done every 50k miles. If you tow a trailer should be done 30k. (I assuming this is an automatic transmission. You didn't say)

Posted on Jan 09, 2011

  • 4 more comments 
  • zubaimania Jan 09, 2011

    yes, its an auto transmission, 4wd..............any idea abt the location of the transmission fluid filter?........is the ops, something i can do on my own?.or it requires specialized skills?.
    i chked 4 the fluid...n its a bit rusty brown in color, n isnt very oily?....is that a good sign?

  • Mical Caterina
    Mical Caterina Jan 09, 2011

    your fluid should be dark red not rusty. The filter is in lower section of transmission. You have to remove the pan, then remove filter usually held w small screws/bolts. Then reverse procedures and refill. It's not so much a specialty job, it's messy and you're working in really confined spaces. And small parts can easily get lost. I would have it done by a shop or tech, but watch the procedure, so you can do it yourself next time.

  • Mical Caterina
    Mical Caterina Jan 10, 2011

    The ECM is a possibility but I'd do the fluid

  • morrill30200 Jan 28, 2011

    Send your ecm to one of the guys on e-bay and have them fix it. Type in emc repair for your vehical. It cost me around 65.00 for the repair. It solved the problem. It's been 16 months and no problems. When I put mine in reverse, it is as smooth as can be.

  • morrill30200 Jan 28, 2011

    Your ecm is behind your glove box and takes about 10 minutes to get out. You might pay a little more for the ecm repair for a 4x4 if I remember correctly.

  • zubaimania Jan 29, 2011

    ok, thanks i just got an ecm 4rm sergei guy in NY, hvnt test driven it yet, but initial results are looking good, it enters reverse smoothly now, will test it on the freeway today.will keep u guys posted

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I have a 2004 grand prix,sputters at 2000 rpm no engine light.w/ car off key on, press gas 5 times get codes 1125,2125. clear codes light goes out but still sputters. do i change accelerator and TPS?


.The control module provides the APP sensor a 5-volt reference circuit and a low reference circuit. The APP sensor then provides the control module a signal voltage proportional to pedal movement. The APP sensor 2 signal voltage is low at rest and increases as the pedal is depressed. When the control module detects that the APP sensor 2 signal or the APP sensor 5-volt reference voltage is outside the predetermined range, DTC P2125 sets.

The control module provides the APP sensors a 5-volt reference circuit and a low reference circuit. The APP sensors then provide the control module signal voltages proportional to pedal movement. The APP sensor 1 signal voltage is low at rest and increases as the pedal is depressed. The APP sensor 2 signal voltage is also low at rest and increases as the pedal is depressed. One APP sensor DTC will not cause the Reduced Engine Power message to be displayed. Two APP sensor DTCs for the same sensor also will not cause the Reduced Engine Power message to be displayed. However, if two or more DTCs are set involving more than one APP sensor, DTC P1125 will set.

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Car surging


Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

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Your all over with this
I wish I could drive it
I own a 2004

Why was the MAF,not MAS changed?
I know the EGR Valve problems
I also know the idle and shift stratagy

Is it a V6 or V8
Give me some history on COP Coil issues
and other past problems

Do you work on it exclusively?
If repair shops have checked it ,I need all they did
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