Hi; I have a 1992 Ford Ranger the temperature guage stays at C for cold, and it just doesn't have the heat it usuallly does. What would the problem be? thermostat? Is the thermostat fairly easy to replace? thanks

FLUSH RADIATOR, HEATER CORE AND ENGINE BLOCK.ADD 50 / 50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER ALSO REPLACE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE STILL STAY HIGH THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR COULD BE FAULTY.

Aug 21, 2011 • 1996 Ford Econoline

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1answer

Needle on temp guage stays on COLD, doesn't move.

it is either the gauge, fuse,or sensor

Apr 14, 2010 • 1990 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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2answers

My ranger engine never gets hot!

sounds like a bad thermostat

Jan 29, 2010 • 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

0helpful

2answers

89 Ranger temperature guage barely moves after truck warms

ok mine did this untill i got an air pocket out of the coolent system then it was find.

Dec 04, 2009 • 1989 Ford Probe

0helpful

2answers

1992 Ford ranger when wet or very cold will not crank

starter or battery teat both today!

Dec 24, 2008 • 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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1answer

2000 Ranger 4 cyl auto w/ac, no heat, temp guage doesn't move

follow the upper radiator hose to ehrer it connects to the engine, the t-stat is right there
olso remove all that other stuff in needed

Dec 16, 2008 • 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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Anonymous

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Your Ranger is 19 years old. You need to perform a complete cooling system service. Drain the coolant and flush the system with a commercial flush as directed on the can. Make sure the heater is set to hot. Replace the thermostat. On your Ranger it is difficult to access as it is hidden down low on the engine where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Refill it with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. While performing this service inspect and replace any hoses that are suspect.

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Anonymous

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Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.
Don't know what engine you have, but thermostats are not usually too hard to replace.
Follow the upper radiator hose over to the engine and the housing that the hose attaches to
should be the thermostat housing. Sometimes removing the bolts holding the housing can be a little difficult if there are brackets etc. in the way.
remove the housing , remove the thermostat, clean everything to get rid of the old gasket material, then install new thermostat making sure it is turned the right way ( the copper piece is the temp sensor and it goes into the engine not out toward the housing), also make sure the thermostat is seated fully into the engine block. Reinstall the housing and gasket or "O" ring, reattach the upper radiator hose and top off coolant.

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Stephen Peter Ross

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Understand first that t'stat replacement has become a routine maintenence item: to be replaced periodically and not only upon failure. A good rule of thumb is to replace t'stat with each coolant replenishment whether with flush or without. (An advantage of scheduled cooling system replenishment is that the flushing frequency can be lessened (but it does help to keep a Flush Kit always on hand since those have largely disappeared or become scarce--hoarding you see--on parts supplier shelves as 90-k-mile coolant service scheduling has become standard with newer, OBDII vehicles. I find that biennial coolant replacement has served me well over the years ('87 model and never a trace of rust; flush every 5 to 6 years). To the 50:50 coolant mix recommendation I would add; unless you can pay extra for premix coolant, never ever use any water other than distilled water--not spring (tap) water; not filtered water; not mountain water; only distilled water. And carry a distilled mixture along to use if you ever have to add coolant--resist the uge to use service station water hoses and such. Also, be sure to change radiator cap with each coolant or t'stat change--or any significant service to cooling system. Now, as to your system guage's never rising above L (that is what you meant to say wasn't it?), while it is not unusual for cabin heat output to fade a bit over time, t'stat malfunction or even t'stat-open failure mode does not typically cause so drastic a lessening of register air temp. Even with wide-open-t'stat and constant external (radiator) circulation, the coolant reservoir will eventually heat to the point of providing heated coolant to the heater core, No, your never-warm register output is indicative of either of two probems, both fairly typical od engine and cooling system aging...that and falling behind on inspections and preveventive maintenance.

Coolant flow to core and back to pump is not available from the engine block.

That is by far the most frequent cause of heater inadequacy and is readily correctible by checking for low fluid in radiator and topping off (along, in due course, with air purging).
1. You see, coolant seeks its own level in any cooling system so that the block's coolant level can be no higher that the radiator's, and vice versa. So adding of coolant to radiator (even without immediate purging of trapped air) will raise block coolant level to level of heater hose bib where it will drain and be pump drawn through the core, instead of just bypassing the heater output port on its way back to the radiator.
2. There can also be starvation of the core at the block outlet if air is trapped at top of block--hot air makes a poor heat transferrer and is not readily pumped through core by the downstream "water" pump. That is why it is necessary to purge cooling systems to remove air in block--it also enhances engine cooling by maximizint coolant contact with heat sinking into block. (Find procedure elsewhere this site.)

Coolant circulating through heater hoses and core is being impeeded.

In addition to or aside from 1 above, deposits and distortions in the core while gradually lessen flow throughput until most all flow has been blocked and a pinprick or rupture leak occurs. How to deal with that?
1. Well, there is no law that says a not-so-costly core cannot be replaced as a matter of prudent preventiive maintenence, especially if the age of the engine suggests that the aging core has sufficiently "done its duty." Of course, one would hesistate do a core replacement unless and until the steps above and elsewhere had shown less that satisfactory results; and unless a voltage test across the temp gauge had shown it not to be in failure mode.

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curtis12451

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Gauge is probably caput

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Hi; I have a 1992 Ford Ranger the temperature guage stays at C for cold, and it just doesn't have the heat it usuallly does. What would the problem be? thermostat? Is the thermostat fairly easy to replace? thanks

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