"Standard" winterizing is good to about -50 F, which is about 50% water and 50% antifreeze. Do you need to go below that?
If you are near this temperature regularly and have no garage, I suggest you consider a electric block heater. I believe most manufacturers discourage a mix much different than the 50/50. You might want to consider a 'battery warmer' as well. BTW, how is your battery? If more than 3 years old, it may not survive a winter consistently at or below 50 degrees F. Replace it with the best battery you can get. Don't cheap on the battery. Get the best one that will fit. While you are doing this, have your alternator checked as well.
As you make preparations, you should consider cleaning your Chevy Truck cooling system. You can find appropriate cleaners at your local Auto Parts supply. Might be good to ask the guys or gals at the counter for a recommendation for your particular vehicle. I suggest you use a good name brand of antifreeze ... don't try to save a couple bucks using the discount version.
One more thing ... you need some survival supplies in your Chevrolet S-10 - GOOD jumper cables, a blanket, water and candy bars, maybe some flairs, extra gloves, a rope, CB radio if available in your country.
I hope this answers your concerns about winter driving in a REALLY COLD PLACE.
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Your 2 main concerns for cold weather are coolant, and oil...First you should check the anti-freeze reading for what degrees it is good for...Your goal should be to read anti-freeze to at least -30 degrees below zero...you may need to drain coolant and refill with new pure anti-freeze to accomplish this. Your engine oil shouold be fresh just changed...10W30 is the thickest I would recommend for winter...also the synthetic oils are better lubricants and easier to turn over in cold weather...Mobil 1 or Castrol Synthetic are my choices...Also don;t forget tire air pressure...cold temperatures cause good tires to lose air weekly...3-5 lbs...standard tires for your S-10 need 33-35 lbs of air pressure for best performance and wear...Hope this helps.
Make sure your battery is fully charged (use a battery charger). Also consider using a good quality synthetic oil in the engine (transmission and all other driveline components will benefit as well but engine is most important). You can also go a bit beyond the 50/50 mix of coolant to around 60/40 but don't forget to go back to 50/50 when it gets warmer or it can boil over.
In extreme climates you can also consider having a block heater installed (fits into any accessible freeze plug opening) but you need to be parked where you can plug it in to benefit from that.
I've also found that adding about 3oz of acetone per 10 gallons to the fuel helps fuel vaporization and aids starting. It will not damage anything in the fuel system in that concentration. (i've actually used more with no problems)
The winter months are hard on your vehicle.
Cold temperatures can affect its operation, while dirt and road-salt
residue can
cause problems with its
physical condition. However, there are some simple checks and
maintenance items you can do that will
help your vehicle stay in top
condition.
Good visibility is vital. If your wipers are
leaving streaks of water on the windshield, or if the wiper-blade rubber
shows any signs of cracking or
stiffness, replace them with a
new set. In addition, don't try to use your wipers to remove adhered
ice from the windshield;
keep an ice scraper in the car
for frosty mornings. If the vehicle is parked outside, placing the
wipers in the "raised" position
before an overnight snow will
keep them from freezing to the windshield.
With dirt, mud, and
salt residue being kicked up off the road, it's likely that you'll be
using your windshield washers a
lot. Be sure to keep your
windshield washer reservoir filled with a washer solution that contains
an antifreeze agent. Also
make sure that the heater is
functioning properly and that plenty of warm air is being directed to
the windshield when it's
in the defrost mode. To help
prevent your windshield from fogging up, run the air-conditioning system
(with the temperature
set at a comfortable level) to
dehumidify the air.
Finally, check that all the vehicle's lights are working properly, so that you'll have optimum visibility at night and other
motorists will be able to see you.
Consider a switch to winter tires.
If you drive a lot in slippery conditions, it's a good idea to replace
summer or all-season tires with a set of dedicated
winter tires.
If
you'll be using winter tires, you might consider having them mounted on
inexpensive steel wheels. This will make it easier
to switch between the two sets
and it will save your more expensive alloy wheels from the winter
conditions.
For extreme conditions, studded snow tires or even tire chains may be warranted. Because they can be tough on road surfaces,
check if they're legal in your area before making the investment.
Keep the battery in good shape.
Your vehicle's battery is especially hard hit when the mercury
plummets. Cold temperatures reduce its cranking power. In
fact, at about zero degrees F,
your battery only has about half the cranking power it has at 80
degrees. At the same time,
the thickened oil in a cold
engine makes it harder to turn over. So the battery is asked to do more
while in a weakened condition.
Following are a few easy
checks to make sure it's in as good condition as possible.
On
conventional batteries, remove the plastic caps on top of the battery
and check the fluid level (see your owner's manual).
If the fluid is low, add
distilled water. On maintenance-free batteries, check that the window at
the top of the battery indicates
a fully charged state (check
in your owner's manual). If it isn't, have the battery professionally
tested at a service station,
auto parts store, or repair
shop. It may just need to be charged. But if it's defective, it's best
to replace it before it
goes completely dead. (See our
report on batteries, available to subscribers.)
The
battery cables should be tight enough that they can't be pulled off by
hand. If the battery cables and terminals have
any white, crusty corrosion
forming on them, it can create resistance and reduce the amount of power
that can be drawn from
the battery. This corrosion
can be easily cleaned with a mixture of baking soda and water, which
neutralizes the battery acid.
Disconnect the battery cables
and use an old toothbrush dipped in the mixture to scrub off any
corrosion. While the cables
are disconnected, it's also a
good idea to use a wire brush or a special battery-terminal brush
(available at any auto parts
store or often in the
automotive section of a department store or supermarket) to clean both
the terminals and cable connectors.
After that, reinstall and
tighten the cables so they can't be rotated by hand. Finally, coat the
terminals and cable connectors
with petroleum jelly or grease
to prevent future corrosion.
Make sure you use the right engine oil.
Engine oil thickens when cold, making it harder for the engine to turn
over. Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's
recommendation, but generally,
you should be using a multi-viscosity oil that has a "W" in the
viscosity index, signifying
that it's formulated for
winter use. Typical formulas that are recommended for modern engines
include 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30,
which provide good oil flow at
low temperatures and can usually be used year-round.
If
you expect to experience
extremely low temperatures, you can have an engine block heater
installed in the engine. When plugged
into a household electrical
outlet, it keeps the engine oil from getting cold and thick.
Check your cooling system.
Extreme cold can cause rubber parts to become brittle and fail. Check
the radiator and heater hoses for cracking, leaking,
or contamination from oil or
grease. The hoses should be firm yet pliable when you squeeze them.
Replace them if they feel
brittle or overly soft.
For
most vehicles, the cooling system should be flushed at least every two
years (check your owner's manual). This helps keep
corrosion from building up in
the system. If a flush is almost due, have it done before the cold
weather hits. The system
should be refilled with a
mixture of antifreeze and water, typically in a 50/50 ratio. This will
keep your coolant from freezing
to well below zero. Colder
conditions, however, can call for ratios of 60/40 or 70/30. Check your
owner's manual or the back
of the antifreeze container.
Under no circumstances should you use a higher antifreeze-to-water ratio
than this.
Prevent freeze-ups. Water can get into door
and trunk locks and then freeze, effectively locking you out of the
vehicle. To prevent this, lubricate
the locks with a silicone
spray or door-lock lubricant. If they're already frozen, use a lock
antifreeze product to thaw them.
Let the engine fully warm up.
Condensation in the exhaust system can cause premature rust-through of
exhaust components. To help prevent this, try to let
the engine reach its full
normal operating temperature whenever you drive the vehicle. This will
evaporate the moisture in
the system. If this isn't
possible, try to limit short trips.
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