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Maybe your low on clutch fluid if it is a hydraulic clutch mechanism and will need to be bled
or adjustmen if it is a cable
solution check clutch fluid and bleed or adjust cable
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What exactly do you mean by 'trouble getting it to go into gear". Are you getting noises? If yes describe the noise. Is it 'lurching' into the next gear as you lift the clutch pedal?
Where was the smoke coming from? Smoking from the actual transmission housing could mean the clutch friction plate is contaminated with oil, possibly a failing crankshaft end seal. This can also affect gear shifting as the clutch will 'slip' as it tries to grip the flywheel.
It may be the clutch assy. but before I did that I would check the cable out as it seems strange the pedal would stay on the floor even if the clutch went out. There should be a return spring on the pedal.
Clutch "on the floor" is rather unusual... Most of all clutch spring is the feel of the pressure plate holding the clutch disc against the flywheel... but there is typically a pedal return spring that will take out the slack before ANY pressure is applied to your throw-out bearing.
For this trouble you need to take a quick look under the dash at the pedal hangers... and piston plunger that activates the clutch cylinder (typically on the outside of your firewall).
Now look at the clutch MASTER cylinder... the connecting HOSE and the SLAVE cylinder. Any fluid TROUBLE IS THE KEY to your trouble.
The ideal TROUBLE would be a split hose... but compared to a FULL CLUTCH rebuild all of these parts are cheap and easy to replace. Typically only requiring bleeding the cylinders... and you are back on the road.
If everything looks good you are MOST PROBABLY going to need a new clutch master, slave, hose and appropriate hydraulic fluid.
BUT if you have NOT found that TELL-TALE hydraulic fluid... you had better have an ASSISTANT operate the clutch pedal while you determine were that MALFUNCTION is located.
If the pedal is working the clutch lever on the transmission... you are looking at a SERIOUS clutch rebuild.
ALWAYS REMEMBER to work on level ground, chock your wheels and use good jack stands... like your life depends on it... before getting under ANY CAR... It does!
Good luck and here's a wish for a cracked HYDRAULIC HOSE...!!
Your mechanic did not adjust the new master cylinder actuator shaft for the correct pedal free- play of about 3-4mm. This shaft can vary in length (normal manufacturing tolerances) which is why there is an adjustment. This is a simple job that takes about 10 minutes. Move the driver's seat backwards, remove the the lower dash panel to access the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder may need rebleeding as well.
It's possible your clutch fork broke. Also, check to see if it's a hydraulic clutch. You could have a leak in the hydraulic system. Both would cause your clutch pedal to go to the floor.
The throw out bearing could cause these isues, however I would look else where before doing anything about that. A throw out bearing can be "bad" for a very long time without causing any issues other than annoyance. Is this a cable operated slave cylinder or a hydraulic? If Cable you can adjust the throw of the pedal to take up any slack that will be made from there. Your problem sounds like your not getting enough clutch pedal throw, is there allot of play in the pedal? A simple test you can do is with the car off pointing down hill (key on so steering wheel is unlocked) With the car in gear, depress the clutch pedal slowly untill the car begins to roll. If allot of travel is required then you know that your not getting full use of your clutch pedal. A Broken shift or stretched shift cable could cause this issue as well. I would start simple and work your way up. If a hyd. system it is self adjusting i would check for full fluid in the resevoir as well. Let me know how you make out and we can trouble shoot from there.
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