I have a 2003 f-250 with a curtis sno-pro 3000 hitch n run plow system. when i go to lift plow or go left or right it kills the truck. the light shut off and every thing else as soon as i hit any of the buttons on the control pad but it will go down fine? any ideas got snow tmr really need it

Help in the link.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Curtis+3000+plow+test+solenoid

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Just call a dealr for help n b really careful

you have to use the same type of light already in the circuit
If the lights are filament lights (bulbs) then halogen lights will work provided that the wattage is not higher than the existing bulbs
If they are then you will need to reduce the current flow through the circuit by installing relays so that the current is drawn directly from the battery
IF the circuit is not designed for LED lights then you will need to talk with an accredited auto electrician with experience in fitting LED lights so that the circuit is not comprised by the addition of the LED lights

problem in the pump or pump relief valve
problem in the ram seal allowing the pressure to by pas the piston

Bad hose

You may have this posted in the wrong product category. Please select another category appropriate to the problem and re-post the problem so the correct expert will see and respond to the question..
This is for car and truck problems related to factory installed systems not add on aftermarket systems.
This post can't be removed or moved, please re-post the question in the correct product category. Thanks

check connection

This is just an idea, I may be wrong but any input is helpful, right? I would think that the switch that controls the plow lights is designed to alternate between the circuits for the truck light and the plow light. If the trucks headlight switch is turned on then the circuit is closed and turnes on the light. When the plow light switch is turned on it may cut the hot side of the circuit going to the headlight and engage the hot wire to the plow light. The headlight and plow light may share a common ground. If they don't share a common ground then the plow switch may cut the ground wire opening the circuit. If you can't find a solution you can always wire the plow lights directly to the battery with the same switch or a new toggle switch and then turn on the parking lights only on the truck. On most GM cars and trucks there is a space in the fuse pannel that is for a power accesory. It is basically a fuse slot that is empty labeled ACC. This is a 12V hot power source and you would run the positive wire here then ground the neg to the chassis. This way if you forget to shut off the toggle it will cut the hot when the key is shut off. When running the wire it is near the hood release able and you may be able to run the wire thru there and not drill a new hole. I've done this for neon lights under cars as well as stereo systems requiring an amplifier. If you drill a new hole even though its under the hood I would put a little blue RTV silicone over the new hole to prevent moisture from getting past the fire wall or road salt.

If I understand correctly, the chair lift is killing the battery. Convert the truck to a dual battery system. GM has such a kit including the battery box and cables.It bolts in. It's the same system they use on their diesel engined trucks and a lot of guys who plow snow hook it up to run the plow. It will run off your current alternator and the batteries work on parallel not a series circuit. Hope this helps.