There are several reasons that can cause a no start (no crank) condition,and I have a few questions. The battery is considered good? If so, what is the battery voltage and how old is the battery? Have the battery connections been removed,cleaned and tightened securely? A battery that has a shorted internal cell can cause this condition. Even if lights and other accessories work, does not mean the battery has enough amperes to engage the starter. With the key turned to the start/crank position, and moving the transmission gear shifter slightly forward and backward without actually leaving the current park position make a difference? If you jump start the car with another vehicle, does it crank over normally?
You could pull the starter and bench test it or have it bench tested.With the key turned to the start/crank position, and moving the transmission gear shifter slightly forward and backward without actually leaving the current park position make a difference? If you jump start the car with another vehicle, does it crank over normally?
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Even though the lights and radio work, this is not a true load test for the battery and starting system. The starter takes up the most amount of current of any device on the vehicle. So, I think that I would have the battery load tested after charging to see if this pinpoints the problem with your starting problem.
The starter could be bad, if the amps drawn is less than 2 Amps and it doesn't turn over, or the amp draw is normal (75Amps to 125 Amps) but the starter doesn't turn the engine over.
Also, be sure to check the connections that they are clean, dry, and tight. Wire brushing the battery connections at the contacts is a maintenance item that is often overlooked.
Good luck on this starting/charging problem.
Two people here to test it; while
another person tries to start it, lightly hit the starter and see if it
starts to work. If it does start working, then the starter is
defective. If it don't start cranking over then check your battery cables
for damage, lose or corrosion. 99% bet first at starter go to bad; 2nd possibilitie the ignition switch.
Confirm if you can hear the fuel pump come on when you first turn the key on? like a humm? Do you know what the fuel pressure is? Does it have spark to the spark plugs?
Keep us updated.
If the fuel pump is working, sound like a bad starter. The starter is a specially designed, direct current electric motor
capable of producing a great amount of power for its size. One thing
that allows the motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous
rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear
(attached to the starter's armature), which drives the very large
flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed.
About the "relay", also called the starter solenoid... it's a magnetic device which employs the small
current supplied by the start circuit of the ignition switch. This
magnetic action moves a plunger which mechanically engages the starter
and closes the heavy switch connecting it to the battery. The starting
switch circuit usually consists of the starting switch contained within
the ignition switch, a neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and
the wiring necessary to connect these in series with the starter
solenoid or relay.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 7, 8 and 9)
This starter motor removal procedure is time consuming. An alternate
method of removing the starter would be to remove the engine fan(s) and
radiator, then remove the starter motor from the top of the engine.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If equipped with A/C, perform the following:
Use a floor or jack stand to securely support the engine and transaxle assembly so they will not rotate.
Remove the front engine mount bolt from the insulator and front crossmember mounting bracket.
Fig. 7: If equipped with A/C, unfasten the front engine mount-to-bracket bolt
Carefully lower the front of the engine, rotating the engine forward allowing more space for easier access to the starter.
For easier removal, do not remove the wiring from the starter at this time.
Remove the 2 starter motor-to-transmission housing mounting bolts.
Remove the starter and solenoid assembly from the transmission
housing. Position the starter accordingly for access to the wiring.
Remove the positive battery cable nut and remove the positive
battery and alternator output wire from the starter. The wiring is shown
in the accompanying figure.
Fig. 8: Location of the starter wiring connections
Detach the push-on solenoid connector. Pull back on the slide and push down on the rear tab to release the lock.
Position the starter vertically so the pinion end faces downward,
then remove the starter motor through the bottom of the vehicle. It may
be necessary to move the A/C lines aside slightly to maneuver the
starter out of the vehicle.
Fig. 9: Removing the starter motor from the vehicle
Clean the corrosion and dirt from the cable and wire terminals before fastening the wiring to the solenoid.
Connect the positive battery and alternator output wire to the starter solenoid post.
It is imperative that the alternator output terminal be connected
to the positive battery terminal of the starter solenoid for proper
starting and charging system operation.
Connect the push-on wiring until it is fully engaged.
Position the starter face into the transmission housing. Support the starter in the pilot and start the top bolt.
Attach the ground cable to the lower mounting bolt and start the bolt.
Make sure the starter is aligned properly before tightening the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
If equipped with A/C, perform the following:
Using a floor jack to carefully raise the engine and transaxle assembly to its original position.
Install the front engine mount bolt through the insulator and
front crossmember mounting bracket. Tighten the bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54
Nm).
Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
RELAY REPLACEMENT
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine
compartment. Refer to the underside of the PDC cover for starter relay
location. Simply unplug the relay to replace it
TESTING - Testing Preparation
Before commencing with the starting system diagnostics, verify:
* The battery top posts, and terminals are clean.
* The alternator drive belt tension and condition is correct.
* The battery state-of-charge is correct.
* The wiring harness connectors and terminals are clean and free from corrosion.
* Proper circuit grounding.
Starter Feed Circuit
For 1995 vehicles, the ignition system must be disabled to prevent
engine start while performing the following tests. For 1996-99
vehicles, the ignition and fuel systems must be disabled to prevent
engine start while performing the tests.
Connect a volt-ampere tester to the battery terminals. You can use
a multimeter if it has an inductive clamp for reading high amperage.
For 1995 vehicles - disable the ignition system by unplugging the ignition coil electrical connector.
For 1996-99 vehicles - disable the ignition and fuel systems by
disconnecting the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay, located in the Power
Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment.
Verify that all lights and accessories are Off, and the transaxle
shift selector is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Set the
parking brake.
Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the
START
position. Observe the volt-ampere tester:
* If the voltage reads above 9.6 volts, and the amperage draw reads
above 8 amps, go to the starter feed circuit resistance test (following
this test).
Do not overheat the starter motor or draw the battery voltage below 9.6 volts during cranking operations.
After the starting system problems have been corrected, verify the
battery state of charge and charge the battery if necessary. Disconnect
all of the testing equipment and connect the ignition coil cable or
ignition coil connector. Start the vehicle several times to assure the
problem was corrected.
Send us neews.
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You have a bad starter, lights horn and the other gadgets will work,and the click you hear is the solenoid on starter good luck
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Is the locks just a coincidence? It sounds like they are locking but they are not moving? Would the starter act up at all before it goes or it just goes like that?
Thanks fo ryour help
could it just be a starter relay? or it wouldn't click?
1998 plymouth neon will not start. It ran fine up until yest. My husband drove it home 1/2 hour then when I went to start it 20 min. later it wounldn't even turn over. It is weird, it's not the battery because the lights and radio come on and never go dim while trying to start it. It doesn make a click sound in the engine (?) when I turn the key. But what is wild is that when the key is turned like you are trying to start it, the door locks make a noise like they are locking and unlocking as you turn it and then let back on the ignition. Help! Any ideas
OK fuel pump does humm when key is in on posotion. Is it wierd that when they key is in on positon the door locks willlock then when you turn the key they unlock? If you don't stop in the on position before tyring to start it and you jiust crank it over the loocks sound like they are locking and unlocking but do not move? Is this just nothing I am making something out of?
1998 plymouth neon will not start. It ran fine up until yest. My husband drove it home 1/2 hour then when I went to start it 20 min. later it wounldn't even turn over. It is weird, it's not the battery because the lights and radio come on and never go dim while trying to start it. It doesn make a click sound in the engine (?) when I turn the key. But what is wild is that when the key is turned like you are trying to start it, the door locks make a noise like they are locking and unlocking as you turn it and then let back on the ignition. Help! Any ideas? Would the starter act up at all before it goes or it just goes like that?
could it just be a starter relay? or it wouldn't click?
OK fuel pump does humm when key is in on position. Is it wierd that when they key is in on positon the door locks will lock then when you turn the key they unlock? If you don't stop in the on position before tyring to start it and you just crank it over the locks sound like they are locking and unlocking but do not move? Is this just nothing I am making something out of?
In the power distribution center under the hood where the relays and max fuses are located....the relay that is labeled starter clicks when you try to start the car. Could it be that just that relay is bad?
The battery is brand new. We thought that the battery was it and was really old but it wasn't still no crank. The relay for the starter in the power distribution panel is clicking when we crank the car could it be just the relay? or do you think it really is the whole starter? We do not hear a clicking from the starter but from the relay in the box we do. The fuel pumpis humming also.
Thanks
OK, new battery new starter
it ran fine for like a week this morning it started
when my husband opened the door to leave after it had warmed up for awhile it died and will not start again!
It is doing the same thing seems like the starter again but it can't be!! What could it be
The dome light blinked on and off after we replaced the battery, it never stayed on unless you had the door open then it would but it would dim then in sync with a clicking in the dash board on driver side.
IT is doing the same thing though! Could it e the starter is bad again? What would keep blowing starters? Could it have to do with some thing in the door?
There is a brownish tar like material on top of the starter is that anything?
Help!
Melissa
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