No elec power

Bypass the starter.

BBB Industries online under Technical

The wire to the horn button is a live wire and it is shorted out when you press the button. This activates the relay and blows the horn. relays normally work by power coming to a terminal through the coil and out the other terminal to earth . This connects the coil and so the contacts are pulled together to allow power from the battery though to what ever is the relay for .. So what you need is power to a coil terminal on the relay and the horn wire connected to the other terminal. This will complete the circuit when you press the horn and the relay will close and the horn will blow.. To get this it may be necessary to piggy back off the power wire ( battery terminal on relay ) to a coil terminal .

The relay for the fuel pump is working but have you checked that the pump is actually pressurising the system . Next you have power at the coil but is it getting to the spark plugs from the distributor.

Check the power feed for the pump at the fuel pump relay. Pull the relay out, and with a test light clipped to a ground, probe all the terminals that the relay plugs in to. One terminal should be hot at all times. If no terminal has power, either a fusible link off the battery has failed or a maxi fuse has blown-check a wiring diagram to see how the relay gets power to it.
If the relay has power to it, check the other relay terminals with the engine cranking. When cranking the engine, two terminals should have power-the fuel pump feed, and the signal from computer to activate the relay. If both signals are present, check the pump wire from relay to tank, check the fuel pump ground, and check if the coil side of relay has a good ground-signal from computer goes to coil input side, the coil output terminal should go to ground.
Good luck. Post back with what you find.

I'll try to help you, John.
For spark: If your spark plugs, spark plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor are good, check the coil. Take off the negative battery cable. Use an ohmmeter and check resistance between the coil primary positive terminal and the frame of the coil-ohmmeter should show infinite resistance, if not, replace coil. Put ohmmeter positive lead on coil primary positive terminal, and ohmmeter negative lead on coil primary negative terminal-resistance should be zero or nearly zero, if not, replace coil. Connect ohmmeter negative lead to the negative primary terminal and ohmmeter positive lead to the high voltage terminal of the coil. Ohmmeter should not show infinite resistance, if it does, replace coil.
If coil is good (or has been swapped), check that coil primary has power to it with key on. If it does, and no spark, the problem could be the ignition module or the pickup coil. The ignition module should be mounted with the ignition coil. The pickup coil is inside the distributor-this pickup coil is what tells the computer (ecu) the crankshaft position, so is critical for spark timing.

For the pump: the fuel pump relay is in the power distribution box under the hood. When the ignition switch's run wire energizes the relay's coil, power is sent to the pump. You could check for a signal on the pump wire at the tank, with the engine cranking Should be a steady signal then. If not, pull the relay out to check that the power feed for the pump is still there. The power to the relay comes from Fuse link G, a 20 amp rated green fuse link. It is hot at all times, so check for a power signal on one of the relay terminals with key off. One terminal should have power. If not, check fuse link G. If it does have power, put relay back in and have someone cycle the key-relay should click-may feel or hear it. If nothing, try a different relay. If relay was good, but no power to pump, pull relay and check terminals that relay plugs into: with key held in crank, two terminals at relay should have power-the power feed from fuse link G, and now the ignition switch signal to the relay coil side. If all checks out, probably a bad pump. If you checked for power at the tank with the engine cranking, and did have power, that is for sure a pump that needs replacing.
Good luck.

There would be a fuel pump fuse, either under dash or under hood. Check that fuse, use the test light to see if fuse has power. If not, then it might be a fusible link or maxi-fuse that feeds the fuse panel. If fuse has power with key on, pull the relay, and use the test light and probe relay terminals, key off. One terminal should be hot at all times. If not, check for power loss between battery and relay terminal-possibly a maxi-fuse or fuse link.
If relay does have power to terminal, quickly check other terminals while someone turns key to on-for about 2 seconds, another terminal should show power-this would be signal from computer to turn the relay on to prime the lines and fuel rail. If you have that, plug relay in and cycle key. Does relay click? If yes, relay is working and problem may be at fuel pump connector. If relay is not working, but you have power to it, and the short signal from computer is there, then check the relay's coil side ground. Computer signals the coil side and the signal goes to ground from relay coil side.
Pull the relay and use a jumper wire from relay's hot terminal to fuel pump terminal-the wire to pump from the relay. If pump comes on, the problem is right there at the relay-either no signal from computer or the relay coil's ground is lost. If pump does not come on, again check connector at pump-that or the wire to pump[ has a problem.

First check any ignition/fuel related fuses. Check to make sure you have 12 volts coming into the pump and coil. If nothing to the fuel pump replace the fuel pump relay - if you do have power to the fuel pump then replace the pump. If nothing is coming to the coil it is either an ignition relay or a wiring issue. If you have 12 volts to the coil but no spark then replace the coil.
Also the fuel pump/relay would not kill the coil.

If you powered the fuel pump by bypass the relay, then either the relay is faulty or the wiring to the relay is faulty or there maybe a fuse that is blown.
When the fuel pump relay coil is energizes, the relay contacts will close to supply power to the fuel pump.
Remove the relay then identify the relay coil connectors, then apply 12volts to these connectors, if the relay clicks then the relay is probably OK unless the relay contacts are faulty and then the fault is in the wiring to the relay coil.
Get a service manual wiring diagram and trace the wiring from the relay connector back to the control box/ignition.
You can use a 12v globe or a multi-meter to check the relay coil at the relay connector to see if it energizes

The power for the shutoff relay actually comes from a secondary winding on the ignition coil itself. Why the enging would shut the fuel pump off is that as the engine ran for a while the coil gets warm and then breaks down or opens up the circuit for the fuel shutoff relay. Fixed by replacing $85.00 coil.