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I have a 1995 Chevy Suburban. I put a new battery in a few days ago and a new alternator in september 2009. Yesterday, after driving it across town, it wouldn't start. The lights and electronics worked, but it would click once when the key was turned and wouldn't turn over. I jumped it with another vehicle for about 10 minutes and it would finally start. I drove it home (about 8 miles) and it was fine. I even started it a couple more times last night to make sure it would. This morning, same issue. I tried to start it and it would just click once but not turn over. Where should I begin?
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The light means that your battery is not being charged properly. It could be that when the transmission was replaced, they alternator belt was not put in properly or tight enough. I'd do the following:
1. Check battery connections to make sure they are clean and tight.
2. Check the drive belt to the alternator. It should be tight and not slipping.
3. If neither of the above is the problem, fully charge the battery with a battery charger so you can drive it for a while. Don't drive it without charging or you may get stranded. Don't let the battery run all the way down either or it may ruin it.
3. Check alternator output by driving to a nearby auto store or the place you had it repaired. They usually can check your charging system for free. The alternator could have decided to malfunction, although it's pretty new.
Good luck...
In most cars & truck with this problem, the most common reason is a defective alternator.
In the meantime, unhook that battery each time you stop the truck to prevent dead batteries.
Start by charging your battery fully and see how it runs from there, then connect a multimeter to battery and observe voltage as it's running. Make a note of voltage before you start it and watch to see if it drops as truck is running. Try a few accessories like heater etc, to see how bad it draws voltage down. If charging circuit and alternator are good, voltage should maintain or increase. Be sure to look for obvious things first like poor/dirty connections at battery and alternator, as well as belt condition and tension before you go spending money on a new alternator.
Even a new battery will go dead if the car is running on the battery instead of the alternator. Check alternator output. First charge the battery up. Then check voltage with a meter from Harbor Freight ($3). Should be 12.5. The start engine and rev it up. Should go over 14. But also clean and grease battery terminals, alternator terminals, and check engine ground strap.
Not that I know of. But remove one cable, and put a test light across the gap. If it lights, you have a constant drain. Then remove fuses, etc. one at a time, until it goes out.
With accidents, it is common for wires to get cut, insulation opened, alternators to get burned out by a short, etc.
So it also would not hurt to put a voltmeter across the battery to check the alternator output.
The idea is it has to be about 12.5 idle, and over 13.5 at high RPM.
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