If the clicks sound like a chattering or rapid clicking, it is probably the relay that feeds the solenoid, or a bad connection at the solenoid. You can disconnect one glow plug, and connect a 12 volt test light between the connector and ground and see if it flickers when you turn the key to the WAIT/ON position.
If you have a meter, you can check the circuit in the same manner, but it may be difficult to see any rapid voltage changes, depending on your meter.
In any event, there should be steady power to your glow plugs until the WAIT light goes out. If you do not have steady power at a glow plug connector, check the relay input to the solenoid in the same manner. If you have good power there, the problem is between the solenoid and battery. If power is not steady at the solenoid input, either the relay is bad or a connection is dirty,
I just read your comment from 5 hours ago (sorry I did not look back before I posted) and you are on the right track. Look in your main fusebox under the hood and there should be a glow relay there. That is your next thing to check.
for some reason, your follow-ups and mine have not posted here. Follow this link.....
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t8431837-92_fo... and you will be able to do so.
×
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
I have a '94 IDI turbo so I know what your talking about. The WTS light should stay on for 12-14 seconds then it "clicks" as the GP controller cycles the GP's for up to two minutes more to aid in warm up. Check your ground from the controller to the bolt on the valve cover as it is a known problem. If you installed Autolite GP's GET THEM OUT as soon as you can. That brand is known to have problems in the IDI engine. Use Beru/motorcraft ZD9's. I have a set of Wellmans from MidWest Fuel Injection. Use an OHM meter and test the GP's..(+) positive lead to the top of the GP and the (-) negative lead to good engine ground. Should see less than 2 OHMS. I suspect bad Gp(s) or bad ground.
The only other sensor that will affect the GP controller is the engine temp switch. It is a red/ lt green tracer from the controller to the fuel shut off solenoid and the engine temp switch. since it does run after you get it started, the FSS is good. I think the temp sensor is in the Drivers side head and has a single wire attached to it. It also does the engine overheat light. Here is a picture link
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp289...
×
Have the injector controller checked out
The timer for the glow plugs is only about 9 seconds any way. The glow plugs are quick plugs, meaning they heat up fast. Hard starting for a diesel can be due to the glow plugs. But there are other things which will be more involved. One is clean non leaking injectors. Then, normal compression then injection pump timing, and proper pump / injector pressure, . All these things make a diesel start and run better. We tend to forget our diesels need to be tuned up very much the same as a gas burner. Now I am not sure if your engine is turning over or not. I have had many starter problems and a slow starter is another reason for a "no start", a diesel has to build compression to cause ignition, it needs to do it quickly. I am on my 4th starter. Second one this winter, which was hard on my truck. I have put a block heater in and that helped so much I cant think why I did not do it sooner. Try the block heater. Check in to an injector / injection pump cleaning, and a tune up. Hope this helps.
Ok I think you have another problem, I have not heard of this one. Sounds a bit like an excessive load or a short. will look in to it today and get back to you this evening.
Looking in to the clicking. One thought is that the module looks at the amount of amps that the glow plugs draw during heat up. One of the plugs may be shorted or the wiring is shorting from one plug to the other . Another thought is the solenoid, the module tells the relay what to do. It is seeing something that is telling it to short cycle. Recheck all the connections on the relay and module. You might try checking voltage on the blue wire connection, other that that is this the reason you changed it to start with? Was it doing the same thing before? See if you are getting a full 12 volts on the blue wire during the key on cycle. Also try and check the voltage on the white wire this wire turns the relay on. take it loose and check voltage on it during the key on cycle.
×
5,133 views
Usually answered in minutes!
its not that it wont start after cranking and cranking and cranking the glow plug soilinoid wont stay engaged long enough to heat up is there any other relays that could be bad other than the module thats under the soilinoid???
its not that it wont start after cranking and cranking and cranking the glow plug relay is not staying locked in long enough to heat them up is there any other relays on the truck except the silinoid and the module that it sets on i have fire to the glow plugs but as it clicks it comes and goes and don t have time to heat them up???
92 ford f250 4x4 diesel 7.3 non turbo having problems with the glow plugs the truck is hard to start and there was clicking going on under the hood so i changed the glow plugs still hard t start and the clicking was still there so i changed the soilinod and the same clicking so i changed the module under the soilinod and still clicking so i started checking the glow plugs and found that each time it clicked power was coming and going with my test light so somthing is not holding long enough to get the glow plugs hot is there any other relays i could have over looked or is there somthing eles wrong ????
where is that?? is that what im calling the module ???
×