How to replace egr valve on the 3.5 v-6 in the 05 300 touring

Its on the passenger side on top behind the motor. its easier to take the black cover off the top of the motor. its a iron pipe running from the egr valve to the cover on top of the motor. disconnect it from the cover. its two bolts holding the egr valve on. unplug the plug thats holding it on and take those two bolts out and bring it out on the passenger side. take the iron pipe off the old egr valve and put it on the new one. no silicone needed. place it back in and bolt it down. its gone be a lil tricky gettin it back in but itll go. after its tighten down put the cover back on the engine. plug all of the sensors back up and make sure all hoses are hooked back in place. make sure u connect the iron pipe back to the cover and be careful with the seal inside the cover cause if u break it it will leak air like the problem i had its not bad as it sounds just take your time. if u see EP BAS when u get thru u probably left a sensor unplugged or an air leak. if that happens hit me back and ill tell u how to fix it

I own a chrysler 300 with abould 58,000 miles on it and the car would have a rough idle and would shake pretty violently when i drove it. The acceleration began to **** and i could barely drive the car... i found out after months of being told to replace the spark plugs, coil packs, etc...and that not working that finally it was decided that its the egr valve and other parts within the engine. The radio has also broken in the may...but thats the least of my problems. anyways the 7 year, 70,000 mile powertrain warranty covered all the mechanical problems except for the egr valve which is considered a "maintenance repair". hopefully this information is helpful to someone with the same car and problem. if your thinking about buying a chrysler 300...DONT!!!! they are beautiful looking but a F***ING nightmare piece of **** mechanically, i might just sell mine after the repairs are done... if the car is only 4 years old and only has 58,000 miles... then this same thing is going to happen again its a $1200 repair....and the next time it happens my powetrain warranty will be void! something to think about!...i have another car a cheapy that cost me exactly that what the repairs did and i get 35 mpg and dont have a car pament and it needs little to no repairs... it might not be as pretty but it works for me! haha peace out.

I have just replaced the EGR valve on my Chrysler 2006 300 v6 3.5 Liter.
I was a super B**tch to replace. Whatever is said in the Chilton manual is wrong because I had to take the engine cover off to replace this thing. Anyway, the reason i had to replace it was because the Check engine light was on and I went to autozone and the codes said it was the EGR valve. I bought one for $50 and was on my way.

One thing you have to do when you replace this is to go to the dealer and buy the gasket for the upper EGR tube. You can't replace the EGR valve without buying this gasket. It's a tiny rubber piece and runs $10 at the dealer.

So to replace the EGR valve you have to take the engine cover off.
The engine cover and the EGR valve uses 8mm and 10mm and for the bolts on the passenger side of the engine cover, 15mm sockets. As well as a regular small adjustable wrench for the hard to reach bolt near the front of the car.

After replacing the EGR valve, you have to really make sure the bolts are really tight or else the EGR upper pipe will be a little loose and when you insert it into the hole in the engine cover, it will not go in all the way. It will strip the gasket and you will end up having to buy another one. As well, you will get an error light that looks like a lightening bolt between two parentheses.

I had this happen because the upper egr tube did not fit tightly into the engine hole.

If you can move the upper EGR tube back and forth, you have not tightened the 8mm bolts tight enough. The upper EGR tube should not be able to move. When you are putting the engine cover back on, you have to work it so the EGR tube fits into the hole i the engine cover as well as the two places on the drivers side. It's really hard to work it, but you gotta do it.

Make sure the upper EGR tube is ALL the way flush inside the engine hole or else you will get the error light (the lightning bolt as I explained above).

You have to tighten the engine bolts (10mm) tight to get the fit on the engine cover correctly and to have all the other engine bolts to line up. Start with the ones on the passenger side first and then the others will align once you tighten those. But first you have to put the engine cover thru the two places by the air filter housing (I think thats what it is).

Anyway, my main point in this rambling is that if you do not tighten the 8mm bolts on the EGR valve to the upper EGR tube really tight so that the tube doesnt move, you will get the other error and think you have messed up.

If anyone has any questions, i can be more clear, or post pictures.
I hope this helps somebody. cuz i couldn't find much help out there.

Peace.

Lisa_jackson,

I did everything suggested but when I put it back together I still have the same codes along with the EP BAS light on. I'm assuming I have an air leak. You said to hit you back if this occurs, so hopefully you can walk me through that.

Thanks!