2002 pontiac sun fire cuts out about 2000 RPM if you accelerate it will smooth out .If you try to hold steady on the accelerator it cuts out . changed plugs and wires fuel filter airfilter and coil packs and ignition module and no service engine light or codes what could be the problem ?

please explain the full story.
i have 5speed transmission option
and in 5th gear it does something odd.
what?
1: im going on flat ground, up hill , down hill?
2: im accelerating , deceleration or holding steady speed.?
and what does it do , go to neutral and RPM goes why high?

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Hello My Friend, hate to see you having problems with your vehicle! May i suggest you try this one procedure to check your fuel pump pressure while accelerating the engine to 2000 RPM. Electric fuel pumps start by-passing after so many miles of being used. And they show this in a strange and confusing way. Only way to catch this is by connecting a fuel gauge to the fuel rail of your truck and accelerate it to 2000 RPM, or what ever stage it stumbles. Your fuel pressure should hold steady at 55-60 PSI. If it drops down as you accelerate you need to replace the fuel pump in your tank. And this problem should go away. Hope this all works out for you Sir....

At a steady 65 mph, the torque converter clutch (TCC) is engaged. When you accelerate, the ECU disengages the TCC to gain extra torque for acceleration and then re-engages TCC when speed is steady. Its kind of like having an extra gear.

When you say "sputters at 2000 rpm" , are you referring to ANY time the engine is at 2000 rpm - meaning in Park, when you are just goosing the throttle, or in gear when you are accelerating, or at highway speed in high gear? If you are experiencing a "shuddering" in the engine at certain speeds/rpms - especially if these are speeds you regularly cruise at (long commutes at steady speeds), the problem could be in the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). They have a tendency to wear unevenly if you drive a certain steady speeds. Eventually, the problem would progress to an engine code, but it may occur without setting the check engine light.

Replace your MAF, its a little pricey around $280.00 or so but this will clear the code but make sure you have the ECM reprogrammed to perform a "learning" sequence since sometimes the code will not clear even though the vehicle will run like new. This reprogramming will most likely have to be a dealer performed procedure.

Here is the OBD2 emission system drive cycle test procedure.
Engine coolant temp must be below 70c (158f) before starting the engine for either the first or second trip
The fuel level should be less than 1/2 full
First trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" for at least 10 seconds (not more than 5 min)
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary.
End of first trip. Turn the key off the begin the second trip.
Second trip:
Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes
Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary.
Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000
IGN "off" add four gallons of fuel
Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON.
Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600
Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute.
Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off.
Idle 1 minute in park or neutral
Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary. I especially like the part where they want you to add four gallons of fuel. Not three gallons, not five gallons, four gallons. Gotta love those Nissan engineers. ...and of course they state that if the trace is not followed exactly (i.e. you botch the acceleration/deceleration) you have to start all over again from scratch

Possibly a tune up including spark plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter, and an oil change. Do include the spark plug wires if it has them.
If all of that is fine, see if the spark plugs are covered in oil... that will also cause it to run bad but not necessarily throw the check engine light.
Good luck

It will be muck or something on the front wheels . Clean them inside and out and then have them balanced.

try changing your fuel filter

Sounds like fuel starvation. Would suggest cleaning any filters in the fuel line or replacing.
Also check the stop idle valve. This should be inline in the air intake pipe to the intake manifold..
Remove it and clean with WD40.Make sure you note the orientation of the spring.
To reset the ECU disconnect the battery for 5 minute the reconnect. The ECU should reset to factory settings. Make sure you know radio and alarm codes!
Try petrol additive STP or Redex to clean inside the engine.
Thats as far as my knowledge goes, hope it helps.