1 - Cannot get brake lights to go bright wen i push down on the break pedals. 2 - Acceleration stops at a certain point, in order for me to get the car to go up to speed i have to push further down on the gas pedal before the engine kicks back in 3 - Major use in fuel supply. checked to see if there was a possible leak in fuel tank and it was not the case.

It is possible the problem is ABS related but could equally be a problem with the vacuum servo or brake booster or the "supply" of vacuum.

Certainly best practice would be to begin by ensuring the brakes at each wheel are in good order.

Test the brake servo by pressing the brake pedal vigorously several times while stationary with the engine off. The pedal should then feel higher than usual and rock-hard.
Apply the footbrake with a moderate force and start the engine without using the accelerator pedal, if possible. The brake pedal should be felt to pull itself down under your foot immediately the engine starts and stop pulling down in just two or three seconds, maybe just a second or two more if it is a diesel model.

Release the brake, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds longer and switch off. Listen carefully in the resulting silence for the sound of air leaking. This might have to be repeated several times in order to listen under the dash and in the engine compartment around the brake booster and vacuum lines. A short piece of garden hose used as a listening tube can be useful.

Once a servo has been charged with vacuum, in the absence of leaks, it should remain charged for a long time if the brake is not used - certainly hours but often months or even years is not unusual. Aplly a moderate pressure to the brake pedal and a shhhhh... sound should be heard that lasts about a second and then stops. Increase the pedal pressure and another shhhh sound and stop.

If all tests ok you can be reasonably confident the brake booster and vacuum lines are in order though it is still possible the vacuum supply is insufficient for sustained braking. A road test on a clear and safe downhill route will determine if this is so. Make a rapid series of brief brake applications at a constant speed of around 30mph and the braking effort and the feel of the pedal should remain consistent and if it does not it indicates restricted supply pipes or hoses, poor engine tune, incorrect idle speed (petrol models) or a worn or inefficient vacuum pump if it is a diesel.

nothing, It doesn't work like that, when your brake switch is mounted , correctly , your pedal has a bracket on it that pushes the switch plunger in so brake lights are off. when you push brake pedal in, to stop vehicle, the switch plunger (spring loaded) comes out to turn brake lights ON ! get it ? when you release pedal it pushes plunger in, to turn lights OFF !

When you replaced the brake light switch did you adjust it so that it contacts when it should?
It isn't enough to just replace it, you need to adjust the pedal height to specifications in order to make the brake lights work correctly.

Did you adjust the brake light switch correctly? To adjust the brake light switch, first press the brake pedal down a few inches, then pull the switch plunger rod out of the switch toward the brake pedal arm, as far as you can without using excessive force. Next, return the brake pedal to the pedal stop position against the pedal stop and pull the brake pedal toward the rear to push the brake light switch actuating plunger rod into the switch housing limited by the travel of the brake pedal arm rear travel stop position. This procedure automatically adjusts the brake light switch correctly.
If the brake lights still don't turn off with the brake pedal released, check the brake pedal arm for sticking or binding that is preventing the brake pedal arm from returning fully to the pedal stop when the brake is released.

not sue u have abs on that model
more than likely break booster
best way to check booster is stop truck pump pedal a few time then put your foot on brake pedal and push down this is with truck stopped ,keeping pedal pushed start engine brake pedal should move down more if booster is working check all pipes tp booster

Usually this is caused by a broken or faulty brake switch. They are usually located above the brake pedal, inside the car. Look at the pedal from inside the car. Push the pedal down and watch it. Look for a switch that should extend a plunger when the pedal is pushed down. The plunger is supposed to go back into the switch when the pedal returns to it's normal position. This is what lets the brake lights know the pedal has been depressed. In most of the cases I have seen the plunger breaks or it gets cocked sideways and stays out or the switch holder itself breaks and the switch moves instead of the plunger. Then the brake lights think that the pedal is being pushed down even when it's not. Start there.
The only other time I have seen this is when someone used the wrong type of light bulbs in the brake lights.

brakes need adjusment or worn down

for the most part you pull up on the lever on the left side and some of them you push down stop by a GM-dealership to make sure so you do not break it wish you the best Michigan Man.

1st need to know where the leak is? Is it a rusted line, or? To bleed after repairing leak, do the following: Have a helper start the Jeep, go to the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder, have helper pump brake pedal 3 times, pushing down about 1/2 way on pedal each time. 3rd time, he should hold pedal at 1/2 way down point while you open bleeder to let air/fluid out. As flow is about to stop, close bleeder. Repeat til all air removed. Check master cyl and refill often, because if you draw in air, you have to start all over. Go to the next wheel that's now the greatest distance from master cyl, repeat, til you get to wheel closest to master cyl. Done!!

thereis three switches to check one is the muti function switch. the second is the headlight switch and third is the brake switch on the pedal.if not them check your ground and see if it is secured properly