Hi, if you're talking about the 30 Amp fuse in the engine compartment, there is a lot of things that could cause this. If it's the smaller 10 amp fuse inside the car, there is less to check. The first thing I would do is to pull the connectors off all the injectors and check impedances with an ohmmeter. If any has a much lower impedance than the rest, disconnect it and see if the engine will run without blowing the fuse. You can use the same approach with most of the other components on that fuse circuit, except you may not be able to start the car in many cases. If the fuse blows when the engine is not running, that would make it easier--does it?
when you say turn the key, you mean to the run position, right--not the start position?
And does it still turn red if you pull out the PCM power relay?
Its the 30 amp under the hood, I took out the fuel pump under back seat and the pump is fine, I checked it with a booster pack and fuse will still blow with pump compleetly disconected.
the run position
Is the PCM the one under the air box with the small bolt on the plug or is it the TCM
fuel pump has it's own fuse, but fuel pump relay runs on this fuse.
purge valve also runs on this fuse.
Also the egr solenoid and the intake manifold runner solenoids.
don't unplug the pcm--first take the PCM relay out. See if that works. I will check on the location of the PCM.
Having trouble verifying location of PCM that year, but it was under the radio/climate control in previous years--behind the cupholders. The PCM should have a lot of pins--like 100 or so. Unless the thing you see has that many wires, it's probably not it. If you want to disconnect the PCM, please disconnect the battery first, and do not reconnect with the battery connected.
see owners manual: https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/o...
not sure how this stuff could be also going thru injection fuse. was this fuse blown too?
what the?
so does the injector fuse still heat up when this one is pulled out, or no?
unless that fuse is burning, chasing those circuits may be a rabbit trail.
sorry, but what do you mean by the same? Does the fuse blow when the key is turned on?
sorry for the delay. purge valve looks like picture below. might be mounted on fender or firewall near vapor cannister.
it's possible to blow a diode that way. You have diodes in your alternator. Didn't you try disconnecting the alternator and didn't the fuse still burn?
The saga continues. Does the wire still get hot when you pull out the PCM relay?
I took the car to an electrical shop and like always the problem went away and i had to pay a $65 diagnosis fee. Now that it runs it runs rough, the wipers dont shut off and the guages are wrong (pulling out hair). I think its the bcm but ill research it more and would apreciate any input. Thank You!
Hello again. Let me look up the diagrams for the wipers, etc.
On the rough running, is the engine light on? If yes, can you get a scan at your local parts chain and send me the trouble code?
I have some ideas in the following post about poor idle. Please browse that and let me know if you have questions. I'm also reminded I needed to look up the body wiring. Let me do that now.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r7427423-fix_p... .
Wipers are not connected to BCM, so the problem there is likely the switch. Do they stay on even when the key is off?
For gages, check voltage at the METER fuse. Is it battery voltage?
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I got a piece of welding wire and stuck it on both ends where the 30 amp inj fuse would normally go and it turned cherry red (its better/cheaper than replacing fuses). I touched
the wire every time I disconected something to see if I found the problem. No matter what I unplugged it kept getting hot, even after unpluging all the injectors,idle air controll, crank sensor, cam soensor, knock sensor, alternator, both o2 sensors, and even the two main engine connectors under intake the wire still turned cherry red and would blow fuse as long as key was turned forward.
I noticed that the meter fuse inside the car is doing the same thing, I don't know what that controlls.
I was trying to post that the meter fuse was doing the same inside the car.
The meter fuse was blown inside the car and was making test wire hot, I'm trying to find the purge valve and unplug it for test but havn't found it yet.
I'll let you know what happens when I can get to the car again.
Could touching the battery posts on wrong sides have caused this issue?
Wire still got hot with alt wires off. When in ACC position the 30 amp under hood allows regular power flow without making wire hot or blowing fuse. The METER fuse was blown at first but will not blow again even when trying to start car and has power. Unplugging purge valve didn't change anything.
Wire still got hot with alt wires off. When in ACC position the 30 amp under hood allows regular power flow without making wire hot or blowing fuse. The METER fuse was blown at first but will not blow again even when trying to start car and has power. Unplugging purge valve didn't change anything.
There is no check engine light because the battery is dead from sitting. The engine takes a couple trys to get it to stay running and then it idles rough but revs smooth.
I'll recheck the wipers tomorrow and let you know if they run with switch off.
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