2004 Ford Taurus Logo
Posted on Apr 12, 2011
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I have a 2004 Ford Taurus. About a week ago, the A/C clutch started making noise. I disconnected the plug, as I can not afford a new compressor, at this time. Two days later, the "Check Engine" light came on and when cold, the engine will start but not idle. Apparently, this is a common problem with Taurus', as I've read many blogs with people that have the identical issue. However, none of the the solutions have worked. I took the car to have the OBD codes read. There were two codes, P0511 and P1633. I never did find out what the P0511 meant, but, the P1633 was a generic "Keep power alive". I disconnected the battery and pulled the A/C, PCM fuse (same fuse for both) and the A/C relay and PCM relay (separate relays). About a half hour latter, I replaced the fuses, relays and reconnected the battery. Engine started and ran fine, for exactly one day. The next morning, problem returned. Any ideas? Also my aim is to replace the compressor with a bypass pulley, or run a shorter serpentine belt, to bypass the compressor, altogether. If I do this, am I going to continue to get a "Check Engine" light, since the A/C and the PCM run through the same fuse or circuit? Any help will be appreciated.

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  • Posted on Apr 12, 2011
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The P0511 code is for the idle air control circuit and the P1633 is stating the the KAM voltage is too low. My guess is if you are having issues with the Idle air control circuit this could cause stalling, especially if the valve is not functioning properly and allowing too much air at idle, this causing the car to stall. I can't imagine that by pulling the connector on the A/C compressor you would get either of these codes. Have you checked for corrosion on the battery or proper battery voltage level? Here is a forum that may be of some help for trouble areas to look for (regarding P1633): http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/132098-trouble-code-p1633-kam-too-low.html
As far as P0511 goes if you notice any hooting type noise that is a sure indicator of a faulty IAC valve, if not then I would say first check that you do have proper output from your battery/alternator and then either take it to get properly diagnosed or try to check the circuit yourself.

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If your compressor clutch bearing is good, then disconnecting the compressor is a viable idea. The internal parts of the compressor are turned by the shaft and if the shaft is not turning, everything will be fine. But if the compressor clutch bearing is the part making noise (the part in front which clicks on and off) it will still turn and eventually seize.

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