I can hear a thumping noise in the front end of a 2004 Ranger 4x4 pickup. Sounds like a out of round tire would. Brakes, rotors and wheel bearings are new. Truck has 127,000 miles on it. Could I have axle/diff or cv joint problems starting? You can hear the noise best at low speed, 25 to 40 MPH. Checked tires, they look ok. No broken belts or obvious deformities. Any Thoughts?

SOURCE: CV joint replacement

Generally no tool is required. If you use a "pickle fork" you will risk damaging the dust boot.

Have you tried whacking the spindle right near where the ball joint stud comes through? This will take a few good shots to break it loose.

Be careful not to hit the threads!

SOURCE: 1998 ford explorer font end

Has the car been in an accident? You may have to replace the upper ball joints as well. And you will have to get an alignment after that. I would get the tire set correctly before I started changing bearings. Of course it may be that the bearing is so bad that that is what is causing the wheel to lean so badly?
With the car jacked up, can you move the wheel laterally - it should be very tight.

SOURCE: average repair cost for cv joint or axle replacement

Average time should be around 2-3 hours. Every shop charges different hourly rates. Dealerships will be around at least 80 an hour, smaller shops will run lower.

SOURCE: Noise and vibration above 50 mph

You might have the wheel alignment checked

SOURCE: how do take out the cv joint on the front axle of

assuming you have the 2wd version....

1997-99 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Unlock the steering column so the linkage is free to move, then raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
4. Insert a drift through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes to prevent the drive axle from turning.
5. Remove the axle nut and washer from the hub end of the shaft. Hold the hub from turning and loosen the axle nut. Once the nut is loosened unthread it and remove the washer.
6. Remove the brake caliper and support it with a piece of wire to avoid damaging the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor.
7. Remove the ABS and brake line brackets from the top of the upper control arm.

1. Place a jackstand or jack under the lower control arm.
2. Separate the axle shaft from the hub by placing a block of wood against the outer edge of the axle (to protect the threads), then strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer. Do not remove the axle at this time.
3. Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the upper ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle. Tip the knuckle out and toward the rear of the vehicle. Suspend the knuckle from the upper control arm or frame in order to prevent straining and damaging the brake line.
4. Remove the lower shock absorber retainers, then compress the shock and secure it out of the way using safety wire.

1. Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the lower ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle.
2. Lower the safety stand or jack at the lower control arm to relieve pressure on the torsion bar, then separate the axle from the knuckle.
3. Remove the differential carrier shield, being very careful not to damage the axle seal.
4. To remove the shaft from the differential carrier, place a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing, then strike it outwards using a hammer. You will have to hit it hard enough to overcome the snapring pressure retaining it.
5. Support the drive axle, then pull the axle straight out from the carrier being careful not to tear the boot.