I just recharged my 2003 Ford explorer a/c with a can of arctic freeze 134a+ with leak sealer, moisture & acid eliminator. The side dash trim has been removed on both sides. My recirculate door does work and when I change my a/c from regular to MAX A/C you can hear a noticeable change in airflow. It feels like it wants to cool but, doesn't. Any ideas?

No, the stop leak is designed to seal a leaky O-Ring. I have never seen anything fix a compressor seal other than replacement.

NO NO NO NO NO NO

--- No--- LEAK SEALER goes into-- ANYTHING-- EVER--

Leak sealer RUINS things & you CAN NOT GET IT OUT

It will clog the A/C orifice,expansion valves,the coils,gum up the
compressor

In the cooling system it will ruin all of it,thermostat,heater core,
radiator

I would say look at & read but NEVER buy ANY Doctor Do
Goods off an auto parts store shelf ever

The ONLY thing you buy in there is Permatex Anti-Seize,Thread-Locker & Gasket Sealer & brake tubing

I don't buy parts there anymore

If you have ANY Vehicle problems

You find them & do only the proper repairs

When you spend 40 to 60,000 dollars, you do not spend
$8.00 on a quick fix, that is just a cash cow for the marketing
& supply chain & useless for your vehicles

The most common cause for an AC blowing hot air is the system is low on refrigerant. A small leak will eventually lose refrigerant until the compressor eventually will shut down. Most compressors require a minimum of 20psi to engage and chill the air. Most certified service stations can diagnose and recharge most systems for $100-150 depending on where the leak is. There are do it yourself kits available at most auto parts stores that come complete with leak detector (R-134A with dye to show where leaks are) compressor oil, and a recharge hose.

Adding freon to a car requires connecting the low-side service valve first, followed by the high side, recovering the existing freon, evacuating the system of air and recharging the system with new freon.
You can use R-134a refrigerant for 1998 Ford Explorer. You can get all parts necessary for Ford Explorer at one place at http://www.carpartswarehouse.com/carparts/Ford/A-C_Condenser.html

If you're looking to do it yourself charging kits for 134a are readily available at most auto parts stores

the sealer will not work have done 100's of these explorers, u can buy an after market condensor much cheaper,
PROLIANCE or SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # 640323 $108.79
parts source is www.rockauto.com

I had the same problem with my '03 corolla. If your freon is ok, your fuse under dash is ok but your clutch is not engaging... My culprit was a $27.99 A/C Relay switch, located in the fuse box under the hood. It was either that, or paying $75 just to have it diagnosed, then $x to repair.
Good luck!

The sealers on the market have had a minimal amount of success in repairing small leaks. It's certainly worth trying if the only alternative is the costly repair you are facing. If you're comfortable trying it yourself, get a can of R-134A with the leak detector. It's possible the leak you are experiencing is elsewhere. Recharge with the leak detector and look for the UV dye that marks areas of leakage. Best of luck.
Greg

134a dont put any with stop leak or sealer in your system... if it does not get cold you need to find the leak if its empty. so a must for checking the pressure on high and low side with manual gauges.... and compare ambient room temp with performance to see what the system is doing... if you put sealer in it later on ,,, alot of shops wont hook there recycler recover machines to it(your car)

You need to check for leaks first. WalMart sells a kit to recharge your a/c system with R-134a and a stop leak sealer. Make sure your core valve is tight. You'll need a longer valve tool than what you use for your tires. Good luck