My car will not crank. i have replaced starter, wiring,battery cables, timing belt. it will turn over and try to catch but will not crank

The most likely reason would be bad contacts on the starter relay or starter solenoid. You aren't getting enough amps to the starter.

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A Simple Preliminary Car Starting Procedure
If your car won't start, try this procedure:

• Check the battery cable connections:

Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.

• Check the battery the simple way, like this:

Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.

• Check the starter and solenoid:

If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.

Could be: a) starter cannot turn the motor flywheel (motor frozen or jammed)
or b) the battery is weak (not enough power to crank the motor)

Turn the dome light on and see if it is bright, see if light diminishes completely when engaging starter (high current drawn by starter).

Try to turn engine by pulling the alternator belt with transmission in neutral to see if motor is jammed. Or engage in a high gear and push the car and see if motor turns.

If motor is not frozen, jump and boost the battery if you suspect weak battery and see if you have the same problem.

i wood check that the belt from the stareter moter is not sliping

The crank sensor only comes into play while the engine is cranking or running to tell the computer where TDC is.
A no crank issue would be only the starting or security system.
Do you have battery power at the starter when the key is in the start position ? Are the battery cables clean and tight on both ends ?

Electrical testing on the starter circuit should be done befor replacing parts . Engine ground circuit (cable) . The Trainer 47 What measuring voltage on the ground side means

Starter Voltage Drop

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

I had this happen last month. It was my starter. My previous cars would miss and catch, letting me know the starter was finished, but this one just totally died, I had power for lights and gages moved, but would not start.

check to see if ur getting power to the small wire that triggers the starter solenoid also check battery cables positive and negative make sure starter is grounded good

Hard to say what it is without testing so I 'm gonna give you a list of things you or a repair shop can check out:
SYMPTOM :NO CRANK
Battery,battery cables,ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter relay, starter.
SYMPTOM: CRANK NO START
MAKE SURE TIMING BELT DIDN'T BREAK OR SKIP A TOOTH,STARTER current draw test , coil, coil pack, ignition module( only if no spark at the plug wires) fuel pump relay, fuel pump, injector module and drives, fuel pressure regulator.

This year Camry is a good year. Very little problems except annoying EVAP system. TIMING BELT SHOULD BE DONE EVERY 60K . ALONG WITH CAM, CRANK, OIL PUMP SEALS AND WATER PUMP.
I recommend taking your car to Sears Auto Center
they are pretty good with this kind of work.

I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck