SOURCE: Olds Alero 99 Left front hub assembly
It sounds more like it's the wheel speed sensor that is part of the hub/bearing assembly. Since you have had the hub replaced many times I would look for the electrical connectors for the wheel speed sensor as the problem. An easy no cost fix.
BTW...GM has issued a service bulletin for the hub/bearing kit that states NOT to use the old style nut that comes in some kits as it will cause premature bearing failure due to it's design and the high torque requirements. The correct shaft spindle nut part number to use is p/n 10289657 and is torqued to 178 nm. The GM bulletin number is 03-04-18-001.
SOURCE: 1999 alero the front end makes noise like the wheel bearing or
if its clicking when you turn the wheal, then its a cv joint. If its making a bump bump bump noise as you go down the road and increases with speed and slows with speed then its probably a bering, It sounds like you have hit something and caused your ball joints to damage. take a board 2x4 about 2 foot long. jack up the car in the front, just enough to fit the board under the tires. At each tire lift the board and see if you have any movement in the wheal. The movement you are looking for will be up and down, not side to side. Your steering moves side to side. Your ball joints give you limited up and down rotation movement to allow your car to handle bumps. If its in access of an inch rotation then there is your problem. Depending on the car, I would probably look at salvage yards first then go to the part store and compare prices. Because some junk yards are chaging near new prices for used stuff. Also your struts may be shot also.
tepfy
SOURCE: 2002 Alero shifting hard
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero and my car was running rough and stalling. Also when the car was shifting, it was making a "thud" sound. My service engine light was on, so I took it to Autozone to run their diagnostic tool. It came back with code P0108 and they advised me to check my vacuum hoses as a possible solution. I looked and found that my air hose running from my throttle body to my map sensor was disconnected. I reconnected the hose and the engine ran normally and didn't make any "thud" sound when shifting. My car is back to normal. So check your hoses. If its still running rough, you may need to replace your map sensor.
SOURCE: replace front wheel bearing
its actually pretty easy if you have the basic tools needed and a little mechanical knowledge, because i dont think you can buy just the bearing at a auto parts store. they sell you the whole hub assembly which is great for the DIYer.
lift the car off the ground and block it from rolling and place a jack stand under it so it cant fall on anyone.
Wheel Bearings
Removal & Installation
These
vehicles are equipped with sealed hub and bearing assemblies. The hub
and bearing assemblies are non-serviceable. If the assembly is damaged,
the complete unit must be replaced.
WARNING
DO NOT allow the caliper to hang unsupported from the brake hose.
Front wheel
Halfshaft nut and washer
Caliper from the steering knuckle and support it aside
Brake rotor
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equipped
3 hub/bearing assembly bolts
Halfshaft from the hub/bearing assembly
Hub/bearing assembly
Fig. Exploded view of the front hub/bearing assembly
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Hub/bearing assembly onto the halfshaft, making sure the splines engage smoothly
Hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equipped
Brake rotor
Caliper onto the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm).
Halfshaft nut. Torque the hub nut to 284 ft. lbs. (385 Nm) on nuts colored black, or 173 ft. lbs. (235 Nm) on gray colored nuts.
Front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
SOURCE: ABS, brake, trac control, service engine soon light came.
check the wiring harness, on both front wheels, it plugs into the wheel bearings, and runs along the lower control arm, sometimes it gets damaged
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Hi Tommy, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Your message begs the question: Did you return to the dealer after the body work to see if there is ANY possibility that the work done may have been near circuitry/etc that could have caused this? If yes, what did they say? Hope we can help...
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