My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid alarm system is no longer responding to the remote control after changing the battery in the remote control. Any ideas on what might be the problem.

HONDA CIVIC 2001 2005 Workshop SERVICE MANUAL


for the easy solution download the pdf file

Try this relearn procedure for Honda key fobs.
Cheers!

Hi:

The P1600 code is usually a IMA fault, and the P1449 code is a battery deviation fault.
Both are usually early warning of some sort of hybrid battery issues.
You need to have a system tech give the hybrid system a good look over, but most likely your IMA battery pack is most likely suspect

Here are the options for disarming a factory alarm while it's going off:

1. Close all doors, trunk and hood. Alarm will stop after preset time.

2. Hit the unlock or lock button on the remote. (One of the 2 works... I just don't remember which.)

3. With all doors, trunk and hood close, insert the key in the driver's door and unlock/lock the doors manually.

Also, is it a factory security system? Is it a honda key fob? or a remote start system perhaps?

Programming
When
Remote control added or replaced. System malfunction.
How
Obtain all remote controls. A maximum of 3 remote controls can be programmed. Switch ignition ON. Repeat procedure below 3 times: Within 4 seconds: Press lock or unlock button. Within 4 seconds: Switch ignition OFF. Within 4 seconds: Switch ignition ON. Within 4 seconds: Press lock or unlock button. System should now lock or unlock vehicle. Within 4 seconds: Press lock or unlock button. Within 10 seconds: Press lock or unlock button of first remote control. System should now lock or unlock vehicle. Press lock or unlock button of second remote control. System should now lock or unlock vehicle. Press lock or unlock button of third remote control. System should now lock or unlock vehicle. Switch ignition OFF. Remove key. Check operation of all programmed remote controls.
IMMOBILIZER CAN ONLY BE SET BY DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT

there might be a hidden switch under your ood or dash that you need to push to before doing any electrical work like on mine. If you dont push that switch it could short circuit your system. I would find that switch and try to reset it by pushing it in and then back out.

I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid and have had hell with it. I have also learnt much about it too.

One thing bad about the HCH2, is that the 12V battery controls the electronics, and the Hybrid battery charges the 12V battery. However the 12V battery is not charged all the time, and cannot be charged when the IMA is usually being used, and in different scenarios. (Buy a Electronic volt meter which plugs into the 12V adapter $14 Walmart))

It is possible that the 12V battery is being drained while driving and caused a voltage drop which can cause your problem. In your case, I would change the 12V battery anyway as they do not last long on Hybrids. (You may have to get Honda to trip the IMA warning lights.) In my case, changing the 12v battery helped the hybrid battery as it was the electronics reporting the charge level wrong.

Depending where you live, you will have a minimum 80,000 mile warranty on the hybrid battery.

it sounds more like that old adage....how long is the piece of string.... i don't think you can ever predict if something will last longer than others, you might buy the hybrid and drive off the forecourt only to have it brake down 2 miles up the road, and vice versa with the normal civic,or they could be looking at 10000000 miles.. they are to be honest just as good as each other, obviously the hybrid is better for the environment and cheaper running cost, but just as all honda's they are both very reliable, i truly think you should toss that coin of fate and see what side it lands, either way your a winner..hope this helps...sorta lol

If it is the regular car battery that starts the engine you can put anything in. But if it is the Hybrid battery you are stuck going to the dealer.

those codes are thrown when there is a momentary hicup in the electrical delivery from the battery pack. clear the codes and drive it, if they dont come back you are all good, it they do come back then you most likely have a corrosion issue between the battery monitor system and the battery