Volvo 850 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4

The world is littered with specialists who will repair just about anything or make new stuff to order and fuel tanks are not an exception. Every now and again somebody working in one of those companies fails to take proper precautions and is killed or injured by an exploding tank and then for a time getting a repair done becomes very difficult. Mostly accidents occur when the customer is in a hurry and the guy is trying to do a favour... Fuel tank repair is usually a sideline for small companies that supply, build or repair radiators so check your local directory. A tank sourced from a breaker or salvage yard through one of the many computer-find-a-part services might produce a good clean and rust-free replacement but a new replacement either from the dealer or an aftermarket supplier might not be as expensive as you imagine. This is the best option. I suggest you ring the dealer for a price and then check the prices of those offering aftermarket replacements. Make the decision after you have the information and new or old, ensure the tank isn't fitted without a few coats of rust protection.

FUSE PANEL LOCATION The fuse panel is located in the engine compartment. A label on the inside of the cover lists the fuse amperage and circuits protected. volvo 850 fuses fuse panel layout service repair manual FUSE PANEL IDENTIFICATION Fig. 1: Fuse Panel Identification Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America. WARNING: Always disconnect battery ground cable before servicing "high-current fuses. It is recommended that "high-current" fuses be replaced by a qualified technician. * 1 - 15 Amp Fuel Injection, Distributor Ignition, Automatic Gearbox * 2 - 15 Amp Fuel Pump, Alarm System * 3 - 10 Amp Courtesy Lights, Oil Level Sensor * 4 - Not Used (1993-95) * 4 - 10 Amp (1996) Electronic Start Inhibitor (Immobilizer) * 5 - 30 Amp ECC Blower (Speed 4) * 6 - 25 Amp Central Locking System, Alarm * 7 - 15 Amp Audio System (Amplifier) * 8 - 25 Amp (1993-95) Power Antenna, Trailer Connector * 8 - 40 Amp (1996) Electronic Start Inhibitor (Immobilizer) * 9 - 30 Amp ABS, Traction Control System * 10 - Not Used (1993-95) * 10 - 15 Amp (1996) Heated Rear Seat (If Equipped) * 11 - 30 Amp Heated Rear Window & Side Mirrors * 12 - 10 Amp Brake Lights * 13 - 15 Amp Hazard Flashers, Headlight Flashers, Alarm * 14 - 30 Amp ABS, Traction Control System * 15 - 10 Amp (1993-95) Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System, Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder * 15 - 10 Amp (1996) Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System, Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder, Data Link Connector * 16 - 30 Amp (1993-95) Accessories * 16 - 30 Amp (1996) Power Antenna, Trailer Connector, Accessories * 17 - 10 Amp Key Reminder * 18 - 25 Amp (1993-95) Heated Front Seats, Power Mirrors * 18 - 15 Amp (1996) Front Fog Lamps * 19 - 15 Amp Left High Beam Headlight * 20 - 15 Amp Right High Beam Headlight, High Beam Indicator * 21 - 15 Amp Left Low Beam Headlight * 22 - 15 Amp Right Low Beam Headlight * 23 - 10 Amp Left Parking Light, License Light * 24 - 10 Amp Right Parking Light, Bulb Failure Warning Sensor * 25 - 10 Amp Rear Fog Lamps, Fog Lamp Indicator * 26 - Not Used (1993-95) * 26 - 25 Amp (1996) Heated Front Seats, Power Mirrors * 27 - 15 Amp Back-Up Lights, Turn Signals * 28 - 10 Amp Cruise Control, Heated Rear Window, Seat Belt Reminder Light, Shiftlock, Bulb Failure Warning Sensor, Heated Rear Seat * 29 - 15 Amp ABS, Traction Control System * 30 - 10 Amp Cigarette Lighter * 31 - 25 Amp ECC, ECC Blower (Speeds 1-3) * 32 - 10 Amp Audio System, Remote Controlled Central Locking System * 33 - 15 Amp (1993-95) Power Seats, OBD Test Socket, Tailgate Washer/Wipe (Wagon) * 33 - 15 Amp (1996) Power Seats, Tailgate Washer/Wipe (Wagon) * 34 - 25 Amp Windshield Wiper/Washer, Horn, Headlight Washer/Wiper * 35 - 10 Amp Instrument Lights, Sun Roof, Traction Control System * 36 - Not Used * 37 - Circuit Breaker Power Windows, Power Sun Roof * 38 - Not Used * 39 - Circuit Breaker Drivers Power Seat * 40 - Circuit Breaker Passengers Power Seat RELAY PANEL LOCATION The relay panel is located at the left corner of the instrument panel. i copied this off a volvo site Hope this helps

if your getting an orange spark then change the coil it is obviously failing, quite possibly. leaky

Check the wires that go to the fuel pump, one is pink the other black, when the key goes to position II you should have 12 volts for about 2 seconds, if you are getting that voltage to run/prime the pump then you have a bad pump. If the car hasn't been rolled, that switch prob. isn't your problem. The sensor is located attached to the body shell, under the center console between seats I think on a 95 ....

The stock fuel pump pressure should be around 44 PSI and it should hold that pressure for quite a while. If it bleeds of quickly after the pump stops (key off) it indicates a bad check valve

Try this: pull off the battery cable and let the charge drain for 30 min or so. Unlock your doors with the key, then reconnect the cable and let everything reset.You could also pull relay #14 (see photo) which is for the anti theft system. Or the fuse.

No, that's not stock. You should have only (1) Intank fuel pump. You should not have another fuel pump next to the fuel filter but I guess it's possible the car was modified by someone.

The blower motor relay is behind the glove box. If your blower only runs on high it's the resistor and it's behind the glove box too.

Fuel pump fuse or relay.

Check sensors for aircon as this share the 5 V supply for the throttlebody sensor

If it is a factory alarm. Look at the BCM(body control module). it can be scanned for codes. If it is aftermarket, take it out.

Hey Kolby!

Sounds like you've got an issue with your alarm module, causing the immobilizer to activate (also known as a "start inhibitor"). I'm not sure what type of alarm you've got, but this will probably help you find out if there is something wrong with it:

There is a panel with relays on it behind the dash. At the bottom of the steering column, by the drivers feet, there is a panel. Remove it to get access to the relay panel (just a couple of torx screws, no breakable clips as far as I can remember). Remove the "double size" relay (probably marked 210-211). Put a wire between the terminals 50E and 50F. This will hotwire the immobilizer and make sure that it always activates when turning the key.

Drive around with the wire in place instead of the relay for a while to see if this helps. If it does you'll know that the problem is related to the alarm system. Keep in mind that you will be without alarm and therefore probably also without remote central locking while doing this.
Make sure that the wire is connected firmly enough so it doesn't come loose. You can also put a fuse on it if it makes you sleep better at night ;)

Good luck!

Hello Jack Smith '95 was right about when the obd (on board diagnostic) ports were being "STANDARDIZED"... If you check on Amazon (I will put opportunity URLs at the bottom for you... You will find a large selection of devices available... Also from auto-parts stores, eBay... (etc.). Even Harborfreight.com has them (quite cheap)... but the key is the code books... These are available by car model & make. Interesting... You can get a wealth of information (with some MIS- information)... merely by doing code searches on the internet. Code readers are quickly getting better and THE BLUETOOTH versions seem to be getting more attention lately... I waiting for a decent I-phone app to work with it. As for myself... I have the basic autel version from AMAZON... simply because of AMAZON'S amazing return policy. Hope this helps!

Remove interior door panel and inspect linkage.

code p 0102 refers to mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow(VAF) sensor--low input===causes ---wiring short to ground--MAF/VAF sensor---ecm check the wiring to the unit--plug connection

Does the car turn over? If it doesn't it could be an immobiliser issue if you have a fully charged battery.
Is the battery the correct type, amps and cranking amps?
Check all wiring connections you you removed to carry out the work.
It could be the wire on the starter motor soliniod came off. It does happen. The same goes for a bad battery terminal connections, a seized starter or a siezed power steering pump pully bearing. Did you rotate the pump pully before fitting?

Hope this helps you.
Gary

It probably needs lifter treatment, ad it to the engine oil.

the filter has to be really blocked to prevent fuel flow and even then the cart will idle I suspect the your fuel pump is a problem either from a faulty fuel pressure regulator or relay for the fuel pump I am not saying that it is not the fuel pump , just to check the other things first

check fuses, spray carb cleaner in air cleaner/ throttle body, if starts....fuel pump bad

You may have a bad positive battery cable, with a digital volt meter you can test and see if you are getting 12 volts through the entire cable or at least to the cable junction block, in or by fuse relay center, then check cable from there to starter. you should also check the main, battery, power, fuses and relays, usually in the under hood relay center(fuse box) Car Repair Maintenance How to Check if Relay Is Bad