Hartford Motorcycles - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

It's either a defective gasket (wrong shape or inconsistent thickness at seal surface) or poor installation (installed with a wrinkle overtightened etc.). Clearly it's a problem and not by design. If you're going to design something to leak it's easier to do without a gasket! Tell the Scuderia boys to fix it right. Should be warranty work, I'd think. ,,,

Just go to a dedicated Excise dealer or any battery shop on the way. They will know which battery is right for you just by looking at your earlier battery.

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

You can look at the brake pad and tell if it needs to be replaced but you might have to take it out of the caliper. If there is pad left above the metal plate on which it sits you can continue to use it. The thinner it is the closer to replacing it you've come.,

Check the ring gear on the clutch basket to make sure the teeth are all in good condition. Check the starter clutch and armature assembly and make sure that the teeth inside aren't chewed up. 

I replied...Then he went on to tell me I have to get the bike rejetted...On cars you only rejet carberators...How do I rejet/configure my bike if I decide to get exhaust and intake? on a fuel injected bike you get a fuel mapper (kinda like putting a chip in a car) cobra makes a decent one that's reasonably priced. it changes the parameters in your ecu to accomodate the pipes and intake,

there is also a grinding noise. Recently I had to set it down in the street and the problem started after that.Well this one seems pretty straightforward. The oil light and lack of pressure mean that your oil pump has quit pumping (assuming that you've verified that there is oil in the crankcase). The grinding noise is common when running any internal combustion engine without oil pressure. That's the sound of the engine destroying itself.,,

If your bike was exposed to very hot or very cold weather for awhile that would be sufficient to weaken your battery. Heat and cold can drain a battery of power so it's important to check the battery hydro levels frequently and run a trickle charge during off-season.,,,

if you bike wont turn over and your oil looks like milk you probly seized your engine.

and when the forks/bars/tripleclamps are straight the wheel goes towards the right. ii think they are twisted or bent. how much do new forks cost?Loosen your front wheel slightly. Loosen your fork clamp bolts on the triple clamps slighty. Hold the front brake lever. Put one leg on either side of the front wheel to keep it from moving. Use the handlebars to turn the front end back straight. Tighten everything back up using a torque wrench and torqueing to the proper values from your service manual. Go ride and have fun. ,

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

Drain it and put in fresh check for motorhead kracks white means water in engine.,,

the front brakes work spectacularly. After a while or on a hot day when the bike slows to say 20mph and the front brakes are applied the front brakes chatter very much like the rotor is warped (continuous, pretty consistent skipping). This is not seen in the cool mornings even at low speed. Since I just pulled the front wheel off for a tire change, I loosened and re-torqued all the rotor bolts to spec, hoping this would resolve the issue; I haven't had a chance to ride it since the change. Anyone have any thoughts on what might be happening? Could the rotors be perfectly flat/straight until they heat up, and then warp? If so, I presume my only option is to replace them, but how do I avoid this situation in the future? What are some possible causes?,Your pads got glazed,,,

I'm worried that something is mechanically wrong with my bike. While riding at just over 60 mph yesterday my bike died right on the highway. I was in 4th and was holding it just below the powerband (about 7k rpm's). As I started to accelerate just slighty (bringing it to 7.5) it completely stopped pulling. Wtf? I mean I twisted the throttle and there was absolutely no response nothing. I wish I had listened to the bike a little more right off the bat but I thought I had a flat tire from the way the bike was wobbling so badly and losing speed. By the time I had gotten over into a turn lane the bike was just struggling and coughing before finally cutting itself off. I tried to start it back up (afraid I had blown the motor or something) and it just sounded horrible and wouldn't start. Eventually I managed to get it going by revving it really high while I kept pushing the starter button. I had plenty of fuel (which was 'on') and my oil level is fine and was changed not too long ago. I'm completely lost as to what happened and why it's now running just fine, like nothing's wrong.,I'm guess its a fuel problem, ignition problem ussually dont go away on their own, but tend to stay. Possible causes: 1. Got bad gas with tons of water in it. If thats the case, it shouldn't happen again. 2. Obstruction in the air flow. Check around the air filter to see if there is a bird or a squirell or something in there. It would have to be big. 3. Something blocking the vent lines on the tank. If it happens again, stop and open the gas tank lid. If the problem goes away, thats the problem. Look for kinked houses. 4. A piece of gunk in the carburator blocking the jets. This could have dissolved by now, or it could float away from the jet then come back later. You would have to take apart and clean the carbs. Also, drain the gas, and check the inside of the tank for rust, or other debrees.. 5. Maybe the choke was left on? Sounds extreme, but who knows...,,,

using regular water is not good. But you have used it for a long time there is a sligt chance that you have small cracks in the radiator and the scale from thae water is what keeping it from dripping. Changing into cooling liquid will open those cracks.

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

oil rad and exhaust.Forgot to clean her and got busy for a few weeksnow the stuff's baked on.I usually use a dilluted mixture of Simple Green and water.Wouldn't take some of the heavier crud off like it normally would. What else would loosen some of the baked on stuff that won't damage the paint or stain the Ti's?Anybody use anything more abrasive than a sponge to wipe off stuff and get in the nooks and crannies that won't scratch? Thanks,I've been using the s100 cleaner. Never tried the brightener. I get mine from a sorta local (25 miles) shop,,,