Hartford Motorcycles - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Check fuse. Check battery charge if less get it charged. Check ignition switch for loose contact. Bulbs may be fused.

There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.

Check tyre pressure. If tyre pressure is ok check for worn out tyres if tyres are bald replace tyres. Check for Handle freeness. If hard visit the nearest Authorised Service Station.,,,

yes the air filter cleaner said to always let it air dry because heat can shrink the air filter

using regular water is not good. But you have used it for a long time there is a sligt chance that you have small cracks in the radiator and the scale from thae water is what keeping it from dripping. Changing into cooling liquid will open those cracks.

the self goes on running after switch goes on off ignition. and it goes on running till battery dies.After stopping of self i tried to start engine from kick start . but engine doesnt start. i chek the whole wires all are in correct position. please tell me whats wrong happening with my bike?clean battery cables and replace battery if needed,

the evidence presented indicates that the head gasket probably was blown or head/cylinder interface was not flat enough to hold compression and a gasket failure caused the cooling system to drain down into the crankcase.

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

You really don't have to worry about having too big of battery. As long as the voltage is correct the size of the battery makes little difference as long as it is big enough. The electrical parts will only draw the power they need. The battery will not force too much power on to things just because it is big. The big thing to remember is to take the old dead, battery totally out of the system. If you keep the old battery in the bike it will try to suck up the power from the fully charged battery. This can cause the old battery to explode.,,,

Drain it and put in fresh check for motorhead kracks white means water in engine.,,

drive it around 50-60kmph and with the right tire pressure and you'll get a good mileage

Check petrol quality. Check oil level. If found to be reducing on use visit the nearest Authorised Service Station since it could be due to piston and bore problem.,

but when the bike's stood for over 4 hours it's flat Confused Even with the main switch off Any ideas?OK beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it. 10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests. Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal. You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery. turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok! Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading. You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows: One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit. Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix. If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!) good luck.,,,

Medium Hard Pack). In general you tyre pressure should vary between 12 - 16psi depending on ground condition's. The softer the terrain is the less pressure you put in your tyres, for example, muddy condition's would require a tyre pressure of about 12 - 13psi, hard pack would require about 13 - 15psi and even a little harder if its rocky. You have to be careful on rocky surfaces though because the harder your tyre the more the rocks will have a marble effect on you. If you don't want to be messing around with tyre pressures all the time and want a happy medium, I would suggest running 13psi.,,,

Check if oil drain bolt is tightened properly. Check for gaskets wearout if so visit the nearest Authorised Service Station. Oil leakage could be from chain drive if excess lubrication is done.,

Put it up on your stand lossen the axel and remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock. Then tighten your chain and lift your swingarm up until its horizontal with the ground, then the chain should have almost no play. Not completely tight, but almost no play. Tighten the axel, and the bolt on the shock, and your set,,,

while riding warm air is pressured out and to keep the suspension from getting rock hard you should open it every 2-3 rides.wait about 3 - 4 hors after finishing riding.

use helment and all the pads you can find. Keep warm and while riding the forests were long sleev and neck protection from branches.

you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,

I can't find a diagram. The small potentiometer on the control board likely serves as an adjustable component to fine-tune specific parameters. Here are some possibilities: Voltage Regulation: The potentiometer might control the output voltage. By adjusting it, you can set the desired charging voltage for different battery types (e.g., 6V or 12V). Current Limit Adjustment: It could be used to set the maximum charging current. Adjusting the potentiometer allows you to limit the charging current based on the battery's capacity and condition. Sensitivity or Threshold: Some potentiometers act as sensitivity controls. For example, it might adjust the threshold at which the charger switches between charging and maintenance modes. Setting the Potentiometer: Without the specific circuit diagram or detailed information about your charger, I recommend the following general steps: Observe the Potentiometer: Identify the potentiometer on the control board. Note its position and any markings (if present). Consult the User Manual: Check the user manual or operating instructions. It might provide guidance on adjusting the potentiometer. Trial and Error: If no specific instructions are available, start with the potentiometer set to its mid-position. Gradually adjust it while monitoring the charger's behavior (e.g., charging current, voltage). Observe how the charger responds to changes in the potentiometer setting. Fine-tune it based on your specific battery type and desired charging characteristics. Remember that precise adjustments depend on the charger's design and the battery you're charging.