Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc to Model category. (W)ater (D)isplacement formula (40) is great for water intrusion, but possibly too late. Relays have 4 contacts if it is a relay and can be tested. It may be an electronic module though. like the ECM or a BCM if it has one. https://www.google.com/search?q=relay+testing+procedure The appears to be two relays, one for high beam and one for low. https://www.fireblades.org/threads/wiring-diagrams-93-95-98-99-900rr.57231/ Hope that helps.

The 99 cbrs have a zenner diode in the ignition switch that runs to the pink wire, which reduces the power from 12v to 9v(the amount needed for the fuel pump to run,) it's a safety thing Honda did so people couldn't just hot wire it.if that is broken, it won't start.

Start with the fuel tap (called a petcock) in the horizontal position. This is pointing toward the back of the bike, and it is in the "off" position. Turning it counter-clockwise to point up is "on," and turning it clockwise to down is "reserve."

Normally, you'll want to run the bike with the petcock set to on, and save the reserve for the emergency situation when you run out of fuel.

If the switch is out put one in.

i dont understand, the bike shouldent start in gear with the lever out it would jump forward when you hit the start button.. there is nothing wrong with the bike by what you say its just a neutral light, witch is a switch find the neutral indicator switch and replace it and your probelms will go away or test the one you have it should test 13ohms in neutral and OL in gear
let me know how you make out

Might try removing or disconnecting the alarm to see if you have tripped an anti-theft circuit on the bike. If you have then you'll need to refer to your owner manual or local Honda dealer. If the bike works fine without the alarm then I would reset the alarm. I found the manual on Google pretty quickly

the stator produces ac power which is rectified by the rectifier pack to dc power which is what the electrics uses the voltage regulator controls the voltage to 14.5-14.8 volts dc the voltage regulator by controlling the voltage also controls the maximum out put from the stator or the current being produced to charge the battery and run the lights and what ever else you have connected hot stator and rectifier indicates uncontrolled out put so take it to an accredited bike electrician and have it fixed properly have the battery load tested as uncontrolled output will boil a battery and ruin it

Somethin is probly failin...get a clymer repairguide etc. An alternator or loose connect...but its an oldbike tu

check nutal switch

Check the ground for regulator or another ground that is common with lights and fuel pump if is there any.

Hi D"Jesus: Could be one of three things that I can think of: 1) The battery is at the end of its life. It can't hold a charge any more. Solution is to replace battery. 2) The electical system is not charging. You can check this with a voltmeter. With the engine off you will get maybe 12.2 volts. With the engine running it should increase by 1 to 2 volts. 3) The bike is not getting used much and something is draining the electrical system. Not too probable, but maybe you've wired in a stereo and left it playing? Kidding. But an example of a drain on the battery. Personally, I'd be betting on the dead battery. Hope this helps.

Sorry the selector forks are gone and possibly some gears.

sounds like the shifting fork in the transmission is bad

Perhaps it will run for a few seconds or minutes but it will die eventually. Stock bikes cannot run just with their battery. You need to have your stator repaired.

Check that the terminals on the battery are tight. Look for corrosion on the 4 wire plug on the starter solenoid. unplug from solenoid to check and clean as required.

There was a facelift model in 1996 so the fairings are slightly at the front as different as Honda came up with the fox/tiger eye headlights. Other than that, they look very similar including the tank. The support bracket which holds the top fairing on might be different. If you're buying these parts off the internet, I'd contact your local Honda dealer first as you could be stuck with these parts if they don't fit.

the fan wont cut in till the engine is very hot,,, well over 100 degrees near to 120! if you realy wont to test the fan out pull the bike up on its stand and leave it ticking over,,, it should take forever before the fan kicks in,,,my bmw has only ever switched the cooling fan on once in 3 years!!!! and that was after standing with the motor running in a traffic jam for 35 minuets !!! but if you wont to find the temp switch pull the plug off the switch and short the two plug pins out with some wire that will start the fan up,,,watch your fingers,,,you only get 5 free fingers on each hand with each body,, and there are no spare parts going cheep?

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, confirm presence and consistency of spark on the plug ends when cranking. Thereafter check for fuel reaching inside the cylinders by cranking with sparkplugs in place but not HT wires connected. Remove the plugs and note for presence of fuel.

Perform above spark and fuel tests; postback results.

Note: Almost always, the carbs has to be pulled out for a complete cleanup. The old gasoline could have turned to varnish like substance and coated the ports, jets, passage ways and carb bowl/walls.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

It look likes it is your thermostat. It is located underneath the carbs, behind the engine block. It is inside an aluminium housing. You can strip the housing, cut the valve of the thermostat and put it back together. It will keep you going until you replace it. Just be gentle with the bike until it's fully warm, it will take longer without the stat. Franck

if carbs are worn, have them profesionally cleaned (you can do it yourself by dipping a day in CHEM DIP carburetor cleaner, of course you will need to disasemble ALL the carb and there are a lot of very small o rings take note where are they located, usually under a small washer thats been pressed by a spring and a setscrew) have new set of needle jets, and main jets (two numbers LEANER!!) Also buy an instrument that called a unisyn, when reasembly try that all carbs open EXACTLY at same time, all air jets should be opened 1 1/2 turns from closed. when starting, try to set a medium iddle, engine hot, use the unisyn, and try to sinch all the carbs the same. lower iddle further, and turn iddle air screw one cyl at a time, 1/8 turn each time, opening or closing, you should hear engine changing tone (IS NOT INMEDIATE and takes up to 30 seconds to tell the difference) until satisfied with THAT CYLINDER, go to the next cyl... until you have all four, by then the iddle is possible to have risen slightly... lower it again and do the air screw procedure again but with 1/16 turn or less each cyl. dont forget to clean the tank and tank strainer!