Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 5
Battery keeps going dead and stopping engine in
Charging system issues. Check stator or regulater plugs, check to make sure they are clean and tight and not burnt. Make sure the battery is good and does not have any bad cells. We can walk you through a test proceedure if you wish.
I was checking the brake fluid level for the rear
I just can't imagine what contaminant went in the brake fluid to turn it into lard. Anyway, all must go. Start by moving the bike in a well heated location and wait at least a day for all the fluids in the bike to get to at least 20C. To make sure it's all gone you need to power flush the line: disconnect it from the caliper, fill the bowl with some cheap fluid and pump it all out and discard it. Then press the piston of the caliper in as much as it can go (use a screwdriver and press on the pad), reattach the line, open the bleeding cap, fill the bowl with cheap fluid and power bleed it all out and discard it.
Repeat that until the discarded fluid is clean.
When i pull in the
Fill your clutch fluid reservoir with DOT3/4 brake fluid and bleed the hydraulic clutch system. If it will not stay bled and there are no leaks, take apart the clutch slave cylinder, pull out the piston, carefully remove the piston o-ring seal , and clean the corrosion out of the ring groove and reassemble with new seal. Bleed the system again and you should have your clutch back again.
One cyllinder is compressing at 110 and the
Squirt oil in your cylinders and recheck the compression. If your compression goes up you have bad rings. Check your valve tolerances to make sure that the valves are not being held open only because they are adjusted too tight. This would cause compression loss. If the valves were bent because the timing belts slipped or broke You may have to replace the valves to get compression back up. If the engine has low compression because there are 300,000 miles on the bike you may just need a complete overhaul or a new motorcycle. If you had at least 110 compression on all cylinders and they were all with in 10 pounds of each other you could still be riding on low octane fuel.
I rebuilt the front forks on my 1985 Goldwing
No, the dust seals do not stop oil. The dust seals scrape off dust to help the oil seals last longer. If you scratched the tubes badly you may not be able to stop the leak. I have pock marks (rust) that after cleaning and new seals do not leak. On Goldwing's only use genuine Honda seals. Do not use Leak Proof seals, they will leak and they will only give you more Leak Proof seals to put back in. If you used that brand of seals take them out, throw them away , and put in Honda seals. You will believe after the 3rd or 4th set of Leak Proof. If you have scratched the tubes, all you can do is fine emery the rough edges and hope the seals do there job. You will see the fine polishing of the original tube, do not polish up and down the tube, polish around the tube (like honing a cylinder) and be gentle only the minimum necessary to bring back to smooth. A scratch inside the lower tube should do nothing to hurt the seal though if not smooth it might effect the slides(band in the lower tube and on the end of the chrome tube). I always rebuild the forks on the bike . The upper and lower triple clamp are the best way to hold a fork tube. The lower tube just slides off the bottom (jack under motor, wheel off).
My 1985 Honda 1200 started
My first Gold wing ran like junk all the way home from the dealer. When I got home I took the new spark plug caps out of my pocket and put them on the ends of the wires and started it up. It was now quiet and smooth and I could not figure out why I had not changed them at the dealer. Before you do anything else , spend $20 on a set of NGK spark plug caps. They just screw on to the ends of the wires. It is probably all you need.
After removing timing belt somehow the crankshaft
Turning the engine over is NEVER going to align those marks.
Get the T1 (Not T2) mark spot on. Make sure you're lining up the "T" mark and not the "F" mark. Make sure your cam pully marks are close. If they're 180º out, turn the engine over again coming back to the T1 mark again and the cam pully marks should be in the proper position this time. Slacken the adjusters and retigten one bolt to hold it all the way back from the belt. Do that on each side. Align them as close as you can get them, make sure you see the T1 mark, then pull the belts. Once you have the belts off, rotate the pulleys to align the marks (no more than a couple teeth movement - they should be very close before you take the belts off, remember!)
When you put the new belts on, make sure they go on with both marks on both pulleys aligned correctly with the crankcase.
Do you have the spark plugs out when you are turning the engine? If the plugs are in, you could be trying to turn it against the compression.
Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine again - it should turn fairly easily, with a bit of resistance when the valves are opened.
If you can make two complete rotations of the engine, with the plugs out, without any pistons hitting valves (you'll know because you won't be able to turn it any further) then you're good to go.make sure you are turning the engine the right way, you must turn it in the direction it normal runs when you spin it over buy hand. This matters only to put the correct tension on the belt in the correct direction. If you turn it backwards, it can be deceiving as how the marks line up.After you get the plugs out just turn the engine over by hand using the crackshaft bolt. Clockwise only and turn it a few full rev and see if all your marks line up again and nothing is stopping the engine. If it passes that test you are ready to fire it up.
From right pulley at T1 and the left pulley is lined up with the mark on the crankcase. The red oval is the little dot, blue is the line, and yellow is the mark on the crankcase.----- Line up the blue with the yellow. You have to work at it because there is tension on that pulley and make sure you are on your timing mark .--------
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1985 goldwing limited edition fuel injection
Try the easy method first. Run some seafoam through the carbs. Follow directions for mixing it into the gas.
If that doesn't work to fix it, it is time to pull the carbs and clean them meticulously. Don't be surprized if you have to rebuild them or replace a few parts. This could cost you up to $250 per carb.
Or it might cost you the price of a can of carb cleaner. If you have the money, or are too skittish have a pro do the cleaning. If you have a clue and like a challenge, there are many websites that explain to you how to clean your carbs.
Good Luck.
WHERE DO I FIND WHER
Dot 3/4 brake fluid is added to the clutch master cylinder on the left handle bar. The left (clutch) handle bar lever is attached to the clutch master cylinder. To add fluid you will have to remove the phillips screws (4 x 12 oval screws) holding the cover on. Be sure to lay plastic over the motorcycle (with a towel or rags over that) to protect the bikes plastic and paint from any DOT 3/4 fluid you may spill during the filling or bleeding process. Caution: brake fluid will brittle and crack expensive Honda plastic.
My battery will not charge on my honda GL 1200
If the battery is not charging could be stator or a cell broken down in the battery. Take out battery and try to charge it out of the bike on a trickle charger. If it wont charge in the bike there is a problem with the charging system and may be the stator or regulator.
Water pump leaks from bottom
You need to replace your water pump assembly. New water pumps are available at your local Honda dealer ( about $135). Get the after market gasket set , it comes with all the gaskets and seals necessary to remove the lower front cover and replace the water pump (K&L makes the kit ($25)). You do have to take off the lower front cover to replace the pump.
I am trying to change the front marker bulb on
you have to remove the head lights as a set the maker light are part of the assemble. remove the grill just below the lights, under that remove the 2, 6mm bolts. on the top pop the bezel panel loose by pulling out on the bottom off it just above the headlight, remove the 2, 6mm bolts there and the entire headlight assemble will come out. hope this helps get your problem solved. Brian
What engine will fit into
Any year of the honda goldwing 1200 cc models will interchange with each other. the fisical diminisions are the same on all 1200cc motors. Hope this helps with your repair. Brian
85 goldwing only sparks when you first hit the
Install new spark plugs. Carbon build-up on the nose cone of the plugs is robbing power that would normally be your spark. Inside the starter solinoid, a spark jumps from one contact to the other as the solinoid makes and breaks contact ( starter button pushed in and out ). The moment when this happens, the voltage is increased and the engine fires in spite of the carbon. If new plugs don't fix the problem, chances are a new solinoid will. The internal sparking can pit the solinoid contacts and lower the voltage needed for proper spark.
It overheats when setting at a ideal
Water reservoir state, is it full?
If not refill it with proper coolant, run it again with open cap until the water bubbles out, turn off motor, fill the reservior again then close the cap. Let it cool for 15 minute, start the bike and see if it still overheats.
If it does then the coolant is not circulating as it suppose to, check for any indicator of leak or oil or water in your reservoir. Note of caution, never open your reservoir when it is HOT.
Good enough?
Air cutoff valve, what does it fo?
The air cut valve shuts off fuel to the carburetors during deceleration so the bike does not sputter and backfire.It saves fuel, noise,and damage to the exhaust.
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