Honda VT 1100 C Shadow Spirit - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Question edited for clarity. VT, not VVT. Question moved from Honda Cars. There are three types of that model. You need the service model. As you have changed the wiring from original, I would suggest a good motorcycle electrics expert. Melting wires means you had a big short to ground. https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+honda+shadow+vt1100+service+manual ..

rebuild carb

under your seat there is a bunch of wires 3 of the yellow i think wires goes to a pigtail thats the wiring harness for your stator and rectifier i had 03 1100 spirit shadow and 1 day i was riding and it jus quit on me i finally got it home broke it down n noticed the fuse kept popping every time i changed it then i found the melted pigtail looking for a short so i cut pigtail out straight wired each wire an never had a problem since.

These bikes are notorious for doing this. You must have a good battery to start these engines. I had a '94 VT1100 Shadow and it did the same thing. I bought a new battery and that solved the problem. Take you battery out and take it to an automotive parts house. They'll usually test the battery for you free of charge. Back when I had my Shadow, the only people that made the battery was Yuasa and it was that Yumacron battery. Expensive but it made the bike start well. Good Luck!

For stick on decals try using hot soapy water and a lot of care .don't pull too hard as you may take of paint with the decal once you have poured the hot soapy water over the decal ,try and get the edge of the decal to come away from the tank .start with your thumb nail Never use any abrasive tool like a knife or screwdriver as this will scratch the paintwork.and once you have a finger grip pour hot water on the decal directly where its attached to the tank .The hot water softens the glue on the decal .pull very gently .it does help tp have another person pouring the water on the decal ,this will leave your hands free to remove the decal.Once decal has been removed ,try using a small amount of petrol on a rag or a good colour restorer polish .to remove the glue left on the tank .Depending how long the decal has been on the tank ,you may well find that the sun has bleached the tank from it original colour .and the paint under the decal will be much fresher looking and of a deeper colour.

Hi, Rene for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.google.com/search?q=Starter+location+1997+Honda+Shadow+VT+1100&sxsrf=ALeKk00c6C17IPzsqDQTIqDohx6_X3kWMw:1604246328686&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiEobak2-HsAhXBt1kKHSGOAP8Q_AUoAnoECAQQBA&biw=1440&bih=757 https://www.hondashadow.net/threads/starter-removal-on-vt1100-shadow.434250/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1188474/Honda-Shadow-Vt1100.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda https://www.manualslib.com/manual/899170/Honda-Shadow-Vt1100.html

-The battery might not take and hold any charge at all. Take to auto zone to test for you. Remember. Every car battery 's life is last only 5 years. Good luck mai

An internal combustion engine requires (3) three things to run(assuming all the internals are good).: 1. A properly timed spark 2. Adequate compression 3. Proper fuel/air ratio Start eliminating one at a time, until you find the one that is missing...then you have diagnosed your problem. This is how a professional diagnoses a problem.

could be several things 1-- coolant radiator is partially blocked or the thermostat is not fully opening reducing the flow of coolant through the radiator 2--- tuning is too lean at full load which causes overheat conditions for the engine 3--- timing a bit retarded for the rpms i t is all connected to the extra load from the head winds requiring extra throttle that you would not normally use in normal conditions another place to check is the fairing in use as the extra wind speed from the bike and the head wind may be causing a turbulence around the radiator and so preventing full air flow to the radiator

indicates that the clutch adjustment is incorrect ( possible incorrect oil in use) and the pressure plate is allowing a slow slip until it gets to the point that clutch fade occurs ( friction heat build up glazes the plates if hydraulic clutch operation , could be in the compensating port in the clutch master cylinder not allow the fluid to pass back to the reservoir properly if cable a failing clutch cable inside the outer case At this point , changing and using the recommended oil, and checking the clutch operation method and adjustment may fix it before going into the expense of a clutch talk with an accredited service dealer first will probably save you cash

If the same as 1985-1998 VT 1100 - you have a hydraulic valves, so NO adjusting, if Noise - valve tappets clogged, take out engine oil, use cleaning oil, start engine and run it till tapping goes away. Then use Motul 10-40W, this one have add of cleaner in and better shifting.

On left side, top of side cover, 3 wires coming out, follow them to connector, disconnect and measure between wires on Ohms, if NO reading, bad stator.

When engine hot, put your arm on radiator, if this one hot too, you have no air and enough coolant in the system. Then the temperature sensor on the R bottom of radiator is bad. If radiator is cold, usually not enough coolant, or bad thermostat on top in, near coolant filling cap, this one opens coolant to pass into radiator.

Sync the carbs, before clean them.

How do you know, it is bad. If you have over 80-100 K/mils, then yes. To change it, Engine off, top cylinders off (slowly - when going up with cylinder top, look for 3 tappets and shims), side covers L/R off, chain tensioner out, metal sleeve at spark plug unscrew, (this is main part - you can see the details, just go step by step . You can also check, if chain is bad, if you take off upper side cover on the top of cylinder (it is a small cover on each cylinder, on the side, if you up it 5cm, on the right side you see the top of tensioner, and a metal indicator, if this one is 10 mm out, chain is bad, if less, your fine. (in this case Engine is on frame, just take of the Tank)

95 or 100, I prefer 95.

Clean carbs - Main and Slow jet, check for electric short cuts - also if you have a good (-) on frame. - check, if you get wet plugs - if you get spark on plugs - if your fuel pump is working, if touch it, they do clik-clik

First clean carbs, slow and main Jet also, if 1 (or 2nd) cylinder is not getting enough fuel, it will back fire. 2nd, if you change pipes to a custom opened ones, you have to sync the carbs, if that is not possible (to sync carbs), you have to change slow and main jet 1up. sync https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oep9AyqcVXk

it can be very hard to correctly trace a gas leak.. Start with the petcock at the tank - make sure its not leaking, carefully move your way down towards the carbs.. If it is indeed the carbs - you will have to pull them and clean (possibly rebuild).. Either the floats are flooding / sinking and not blocking the incoming fuel, or dirt has stopped the needle from sealing properly, or you might have an external leak on the hoses / orings etc.. It might be your tank overflow - is the tank completely full when this happens?