Moto Guzzi Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If the battery is fully charged (test it with a good volt meter), and the solenoid is good (prove this by measuring the volts on the battery side of the solenoid when pressing the start button) and it still will not start, suspect the starter or the wire from the soleniod to the starter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

The Cali' Special tyre pressures:- --------------- 1 RIDER.---------------------- 2 RIDERS Front ...... 2.3 Bar(33.5psi) ................... 2.3Bar(33.5psi) Rear ....... 2.5Bar(36.3psi) .................... 2.9Bar(42psi) I use BT45's on mine but I have the ordinary tubed rims. I find the ride harsh but this may be down to suspension rather than tyres. People recommend running the BT45 at a slightly higher pressure than the book. I got 8500 miles from the front and 4700 from the rear. Although the rear was changed slightly early due to a puncture. I will probably try a different make next time.

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

it sounds like the solenoid secondary circuit has failed. Carefully stick a screwdriver between the 2 larger posts and the starter should spin.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

there are mg and english car clubs all over the world find such a club near you and the help from the members makes owing the car a joy

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

Yes it is

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

pull the plugs and using a piece of soft wire insert the wire into the plug holes remove the rocker covers and turn the engine over slowly watching the wire move up and the rockers movement at a point you will see the wire stop coming up and then start going back down move the crank back and forward until you get no movement and that is TDC At the point one set of valves will be fully closed and the other set will be in the rocking position ( movement either way allows the exhaust to start closing and the inlet start to opening at the same time that is when you adjust the valves clearance ( tappets ) on the closed valves having done that turn the engine over 360 degrees and the valves positions will reverse so you can adjust the next set when at tdc from the wire check what letter is at the pointer and that will be TDC letter the D and S will be italian for tdc and ignition