20 Most Recent 2013 Kymco Agility 50 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Arriving at a fair price for any secondhand vehicle is very difficult and many variables should be considered though in the final analysis anything is only worth what the market will pay - if the seller asks too much the buyer will walk away. There are many publications providing guide prices for all manner of vehicles - but these are only a guide and some models tend to command higher prices because of a good reputation while other models with a reputation for trouble or high running costs can fall far below. No vehicle should be bought without a thorough inspection and price adjustments made for faults found and any pending work, taking due consideration of fair wear and tear. A service history is important but will affect the price only if it can be fully verified by the presence of official invoices and a vehicle should only reach the guide price if the literature pack, the full complement of keys, tools, accessories, etc. is present. The replacement cost of some of the modern keys can be eye-watering so it is important to think ahead. The presence of local dealer expertise and a spares service is worth a little extra and the absence of a local dealer drives the price down a little. I hope this helps...

Firstly, I don't know whether the vehicle has an immobiliser or other type of anti-theft or security system but it would be an unusual modern vehicle if it doesn't and if so it might be the cause of the non-starting. I am not familiar with the model but I expect it has many similarities with most modern vehicles where there is an engine management computer that drives the ignition coil and fuel injection system after processing information from a number of sensors. Replacing components without testing can be expensive and fruitless and unfortunately that needs a measure of experience and some specialised equipment.

Here is a forum talking about it. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4005.0

You've got a Ignition System Issue which narrows things down quite a bit. It's either the ignition switch that your key goes into, or an on/off(run/stop) switch, or it's a relay for the ignition systems(or starter relay), if it's none of those then it's the starter solenoid that you've been jumping with the screwdriver, it sounds like the starter is working as it should since it turns over- the reason it turns over but won't actually run is because the ignition system won't work unless the key is inserted and in the run position, or if there's any other on/off switch that controls your engine it could be there. I'm not familiar with this exact bike but this is a common issue with all motorized machines! You can bypass all of this but that requires running some wires and a couple of switches plus a relay or two- that's an option but don't do that as your issue is nothing major and would be easier to fix than to go through the trouble of re-wiring it all. Just start troubleshooting and eliminate one part at a time, check relays, fuses, and electrical connections first, then the individual components I listed above and check to make sure they have power coming in and out when/where they're supposed to. If your bike turns over but won't run and the key is on, and you have a functional Ignition system then you need to verify you have ignition by checking your coil's output. EASIEST way to do so is pull a spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire as you normally would, then hold the spark plug against the engine to ground it and turn it over- you'll see if you have any spark jumping aroundbetween the spark plug's electrode and the base of the plug itself. Either way, you'll get this figured out now that you know where to start and what to check!

Check that your fuel pump is working.

Check all wiring connections and especially those on the battery, starter, and starter solenoid(if seperare from battery). It sounds like something is just making a bad connection since it won't even turn over- I bet your problem is in this area, good Luck and if I've been helpful please click the green button to let me know, Habe A Great Day!

Can be a loose / bad connection somewhere in the high current starter circuit, or a flat battery. Did it start ok a few times when you put in the new battery? Yes >> not charging the battery (or not charged when fitted). No >> Bad connection between battery and frame or between battery and main ignition key power connection point (usually to a fuse). The cause of solenoid clicking is the voltage dropping dramatically when the starter current begins to flow, usually a flat battery or a loose or dirty connection in the starter current circuit (will generate heat when clicking which can help you find it).

Your first option is to check the basics. Is there fuel in the tank? Yes, I know that sounds silly but I have done it! Check that the fuel lines all the way from the tank aren't blocked. Is there a fuel tap, (petcock), fitted? They usually have a gauze filter built into them that might need cleaning. Is the fuel filter a new one? When was the last time the carb was overhauled?

Give her a lot squirts of WD40 while you push button in and out and your see the muck and dirt dribble out WD40 that Is your best friend

Check the ignition coil.

possible bad batteries not taking a charge dirty /loose battery terminals will do that also

Based on the number of repair question on this brand I assume they are just junk, sell it.

More than likely the ignition module is the cause or the ignition pickup.

Error code 2 is a motor fault, normally brushes. Companies charge a call out fee to send an engineer to you or you can always send it back yourself.

I did find this... CONTACT them and ask about a manual ~ perhaps they know WHO to contact? http://www.mobility-shops.com/products/886/kymco-midi-xl--mobility-scooter-eq35ba Kymco Midi XL Mobility Scooter EQ35BA

Check all the bolts, you lost compression.

the sump plug will be on the bottom of the engine but theseold Honda copy (GY) engines don't use an oil filter they have a wire mesh gauze screen that sits on top of the sump plug bolt so make sure this comes out with the sump plug and is free from any dirt/debris. so drain oil clean the gauze screen then refit and refill your oil. check your oil level if its low or black and burnt this could be your over heating problem but I would also check to make sure the auto choke isn't sticking on. Best of luck hope this is of some help

Try this link or search youtube. http://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t26878897-oil_filter_2004_kymco_hipster_change

Hello P Smurf, Well... don't feel bad...!! The KIMCO drawing is TRASH (in my humble opinion). Just start the engine! - ignition switch on (powers on CDI module) - short B+ 12V to "S" lead (small terminal on solenoid switch = cranking motor (until it starts (or within reason... do not burn out starter)). Really... you can short BATTERY to the starter solenoid... as long as you have the ignition on... It SHOULD RUN (if it can). You only have the REAL two issues you need to start... Fire & fuel... (everything else is mere confusion). IGNORE IT ALL... until you get the engine started...!! I've been reading schematics, circuit drawings, operational diagrams... All of it for more than my adult life... (mere seconds away from 70) amateur radio, patent holder & highly skilled professional... (into full spectrum optics).... I pulled up the appropriate Kymco "drawing"... and while I'll say it is very pretty (colorful) it is also TOTALLY USELESS...!! (top reference below... avoid it!). Whom-so-ever (clown who posted it) that put it together didn't (still doesn't) know their posterior from 75 cents (six bits). I can't even tell if the generator & starter are one-in-the-same (which would be the first place you want to go... Useable VERSION immediately below... Quite Useless: http://www.enmoto.com/enmotoonline/downloads/Specifications/Kymco/Schaltplaene/Quannon.pdf I found another source... that has the COMPLETE information: http://binatani.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/wiring-diagram-Kymco-Super8-125cc-engine.jpg http://binatani.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/wiring-diagram-Kymco-Super8-125cc-engine.jpg If you don't have a spark tester just have a friend pull the HIGH-VOLTAGE wire loose enough to see the spark jump... Else find the CDI Module/Coil... & replace it (better to get a SPARK test tool...)... I'm just saying Comment me back... every tractor & tiller in the world has the same starter circuit (some just have points & coils in lieu of CDI Modules). I'll be here!!