check for electrical issues be sure the batter cables are tight with no currosion,if you check all options and the problem still exists,then it cud be that your starter has went out but you can find anything you need here, www.discountbargainprices.net
Hi, Leo it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine-tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://bikeadvice.in/tuning-carburetor-optimal-performance-fuel-efficiency/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsJnQgJImXo https://en.manualesdemecanica.com/manuales/Manuales-de-taller/bajaj/ https://safexbikes.com/products/motorcycle-parts/Bajaj/vehicle/CT%20100 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1067827/Bajaj-Ct-100.html
Hi, William and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Dirty air filter
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
11. Old dead or bad fuel.
12. A faulty fuel pressure regulator.
13. Pinholes in the in-tank plastic convoluted tubing from the pressure regulator to the quick disconnect check valve.
14. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
15. The throttle body controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
17. Clogged or faulty fuel injectors.
18. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
19. Faulty TPS, MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Weak or broken valve springs.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. The control module may be in limp mode.
24. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/275682-05-c50-running-only-rear-cylinder.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvpOq52ud1I https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1000591/Suzuki-Vl1500.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/
Casey... if you have turned your adjustment screw that much...there is no way you should have ever turned it that much...If it were me.. I would take it to a Suzuki professional and let them replace the fluid and set the adj. screws back to stock,,,you have to be a good rider to really notice a lot of difference.. and have a good sticky front tire!! Stop fooling with it!!