20 Most Recent 2005 Yamaha PW 50 Questions & Answers

Hi, Steverobe918 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Rick and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Boracho22 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous "ABSOLUTELY" and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Hi, Arne for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Chris for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Hi, Dan and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Yamaha pw50 wont run Please help
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http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2009/lit-11626-22-24_pw50_1574.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/file.php/6/54812/1132821080_pwmod.pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

choke cable is holding the carb open

PW have the stop\start\run switch and will not rev in the start position, there may be a problem in this switch, wire, or the ignition box which controlls this.
The small 50s can also build up carbon in the exhaust port, or the exit end of the muffler.
They also need the original air filter and cover (dont know why, but they wont rev without it).
I realize you may have checked some of these, but not much else goes wrong

Hi, in short you should have no power or juice as you explained at the points ifthey are located inside the flywheel, the power is made when the engine is rotated as the magnetic field and the low tension coil located inside the flywheel create the low voltage, for the ignition coil, if this is the 70cc with flywheel magneto, it will run without the battery connected, on some of the older models, the dc (direct current) wire from the rectifier connected into the red positive battery wire to charge the battery

First make sure the compression is strong. Next ensure you are getting a strong blue spark at the plug. Make sure your fuel/oil mix isn't old; if it is drain and change it. If you have good compression and a strong spark, put some fuel/oil mix into a spray bottle and spray some directly into the carburetor throat. If it fires after spraying, the engine is starving for fuel. Make sure fuel flows freely from the petcock. If it does, odds are your carburetor needs attention; most likely at least a thorough cleaning to remove any gum/varnish that may have formed. Just be sure not to put steel ojects into any of the jet holes or you will end up enlarging them. Wood is OK and copper wire is OK; also be careful that whatever you use to clean the jet(s) doesn't break off into the jet.

there are no set settings for it screw in your biggest screw turn to undo 1 turn per try eventualy youll get there a pain but workted 4 me goodluck

AT LEAST 90 TO 120 PSI,,,,,,THIS IS THE NORM FOR ALL BIKES.

The centrifugal clutch is slipping & needs new shoes, if it wont "grab" under load.
I hope this helps.

Sounds like either the high speed mixture is adjusted too lean, the float is too low or the high speed jet still has some obstruction.

Remove the cap on the carb then lift out the slide and unhook the throttle cable from the slide. Next unhook the cable from the oil pump. Now remove the connector cap from the connector body and lift the single cable from the connector body. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

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