20 Most Recent 2006 Suzuki Boulevard C90T Questions & Answers

F1 is only saying check fault codes, you should have a small whith block connector some where under the seat, u need to use a bit of wire, place in the terminals like arc out, and then turn ignition on, on the dash it should show a fault code, if 00 no faults so look into fuel filters, blockages, water in fuel tank.

try removing positive cable from batt. for 5min. replace turn ign. switch on about 5sec. dont crank it. cut it off.now crank it. see if that correct he problem

Battery is dead or no capacity. Check charge. A battery can read correct voltage but have no capacity. battery should be 13.8 volts fully charged approximately. Did this just happen after storage or was it working fine then had the problem>? Needs more details and history to diagnose. How old is the battery??.

-Hoist bike up on a stand (lift)Take off 3 bolts holding the drive to the torque tube. Loosen exhaust mounting if required to access the axle bolt.-Take off the Passenger side swing arm- take off axle bolt and drive it out. slide wheel sideways to remove from bike.

http://www.bikebandit.com/2006-suzuki-boulevard-c90t-vl1500t-front-damper/o/m147608sch518555 You'll need to remove bolt (part #11), and probably come up with something to hold (part #14) from spinning while you do.

You need to pull the shifter off and move it to a different position on the shaft. One little notch makes a big difference on a shift-shaft.

stuck float or electric problem suzuki seems to be having alot of electril problems i am seeing a pattern check for factory recalls also i would complain to the manifactor they are not building them like they use to just a observation

starter or starting problem, if starter, bd connection, worn bushes.

F1 means check for a fault code, you have to put a wire between the white plug terminals.

clean the battery terminals with a wire brush and tighten the connections up snug

on what bike mate, you need to be more descriptive, READ WORKSHOP MANUAL ON TESTING F1 LIGHT, THERE is a way to check the fault codes, but I recon it will come up 00

Forks on a motorcycle are usually comprised of springs, oil, and valves. Some have the option for air, some are nitrogen charged. Some also have adjustments for preload and rebound. Best bet is grab an owners manual to be sure which type you have and go from there. If yours are pressurized with air or nitrogen, check the pressure to see if it is within factory specifications. If not adjust accordingly. *WARNING* Many of these style are easily damaged from too much air pressure say from that of an air compressor like those used for automotive tools. If you need to add pressure, the safest bet is to use a simple hand/foot operated pump similar to those used for a bicycle. You may also call your local Suzuki dealer and ask if they have a lighter spring for the forks. Swapping these can be done DIY with patience and proper tools or imagination with other tools you may already have. One last option is to replace the oil as it maybe time for it to be serviced and just fresh oil may do the trick, that is if the bike when you got it originally felt better than now. I wish you the best of luck with your bike and safe riding from a fellow rider.

The problem is more likely to be ignition related. And yes, they do have a fuel filter. Usually in the fuel tap, but sometimes in the fuel line as well. Fuel starvation would not cause the symptoms as you describe them. A misfire would, you would get unburned fuel in the exhaust and it would then be ignited by the next fire stroke going into the exhaust. The fault could be something as simple as a failing spark plug or lead.

Replace regulator/rectifier

It takes a very fresh battery to start those bikes, possibly the battery you traded to use wasnt in its prime either, also if you have a charging issue then the same thing will happen, check your stator and voltage regulator for problems.

Many times a common cause the rebound dampening of the forks them selves. Forks have large springs internally as well as tubes with various holes the restrict the fluid flow. When you carry your front wheel or pop a wheelie the springs immediately pop the forks to the max extended position and make a metallic clunk. Check your owners manual for correct fork fluid viscosity and volumne. Replace and set correctly.
Check for cable guides that may interfere with fork travel. They may have to be repositioned.
Your front fender may have loose fasteners and the bracket between the tire and the fender is clanking.
Keep on riding,
TF

Remove the right side cover and remove the the liner for the tool kit. This will expose the shock, Use the tool provided in the tool kit to adjust the nut up or down below the spring. Up for more preload, down for less. Its esier if you use a pipe on the end of the tool for leverage as there's not much room to work with.

• One of two or both things are happening.

1. That starter relay is stuck closed and your hearing the voltage arc in the relay. Replace the relay.
2. But first before replacing the relay check the battery for proper voltage. If you arched that battery you may have ruined it. Should read 12 volts. If not charge it a bit and give another try. An auto parts store can give it a load teat for free and tell you if it is bad despite voltage as 12 volts does not always = good battery.
3. So first check the battery voltage with a multi-meter. Then take the battery to have it tested. This will prevent buying a relay that may not be be necessary. If the battery tests good both ways then the relay must be replaced.

Regards, Tony