2006 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You can go to the repaired store. IQ4CAR Mega Macs 50 Code Scanner MEGAMACS-50 Cars Multifunction Diagnostic Tool IQ4CAR Mega Macs 50 Code Scanner MEGAMACS 50 Cars Multifunction Diagnostic...

Hi, David it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned. And the usual suspects are:1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.2. Faulty charging system.3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/threads/check-engine-light-on-06-road-king.233674/http://www.mediafire.com/file/7v6xgppa4o39vbb/2006+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.pdfhttp://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/road-king-classic-efi-2006-owners-manual-66474https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, William and the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. 2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. 3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections. 4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections. 5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator. 6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark. 7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets 8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system. 9. Improper valve clearance (too tight). 10. Check for generated diagnostic codes. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.mediafire.com/file/7v6xgppa4o39vbb/2006+Harley+Touring+Service+Manual.pdf http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/road-king-classic-efi-2006-owners-manual-66474 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Remove top of fuel tank, remove fuel pump etc and then you can change the filter.

With the full weight of the motorcycle resting on the jiffy or side stand when it is placed in the full forward and down position it will lock into this position when the bike is leaned over the left side. If it is not in the fully down and forward position and on a flat/level and firm/solid surface when it is leaned over to the left side the bike may fall down. To Remove the Jiffy Stand WWAARRNNININGG Block and support the motorcycle under frame to be sure that it is securely upright and level and so that the jiffy stand can be moved throughout its full range of travel and so that it will not fall down or onto the repair person when the jiffy stand is removed. Then move the jiffy stand to the retracted i.e. up position and remove the flange nut and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg and then move the jiffy stand leg to the full forward position which is the full down position and grasp the end of the jiffy stand spring as close to the frame tube as possible, and then twist and turn the end with needle nose pliers to unhook it from the frame hole. THEN remove the jiffy stand leg from its bracket, inspect the entire jiffy stand assembly for worn or damaged parts and replace them as found necessary. To Install the Jiffy Stand First lubricate the jiffy stand leg with an Aerosol Anti-Seize Lubricant but only in the area of the jiffy stand leg part that rotates within the bracket. THEN insert the threaded end of the jiffy stand up through the bottom of the bracket and with the jiffy stand in the full forward position, partially install the spring end into the frame hole and with a rap to the spring with a rubber mallet fully seat it in its hole. Be careful to insert the end of the spring into the hole at the front of the jiffy stand leg piece in front of the jiffy stand leg piece weldment because if it is inserted from the rear of the hole in the leg piece the coil of the spring will interfere with and rub on the leg piece when the jiffy stand is used and if it is installed incorrectly over time it will wear and the motorcycle could fall over due to this wear. THEN while holding the jiffy stand leg at the full forward position, install the leg stop over the threaded end with the stamped side down, install the flange nut and tighten it to 43-53 ft-lbs which is 58-72 Nm. NOW verify that the longer side of the leg stop faces towards the rear of the motorcycle, extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify that it operates properly, freely moving to both the full up and the full down positions with no spring or other interference or contact and verify that the rubber stop is correctly in place on the jiffy stand prong because without the rubber stop correctly in place the stand will make improper contact with the lower frame tube when the jiffy stand is retracted and will then likely chip and/or nick the powder coat. AND, of course if the rubber stop is deteriorated or missing. Replace it with a new one. FINALLY carefully remove the support blocking from beneath the motorcycle frame and let the motorcycle rest on the fully extended jiffy stand leg. CAUTION

16 inch but get the exact specs from an H-D parts department.

Not a speedo specific fuse, no.

Not specifically for the speedo.

You can retrieve/display DTC's (trouble codes) by a method referred to as the odometer self-diagnostics which can display and delete speedometer, tachometer, TSM, TSSM or HFSM, ECM and ABS (if equipped) codes but not radio codes which are accessed through the radio itself and are shown on its own display. In order todisplay odometer DTC's press and hold the trip odometer reset switch while you are turning ignition switch to "ON", then release the trip odometer reset switch at which time "diag" will appear on the LCD display where normally the odometer reading would be. When "diag" appears you are in the diagnostic mode so if you next press and release the trip odometer reset switch again "PSSPtb" appear where diag previously was seen. This tells you what different modules are on the motorcycle that are set up or able to display DTC's. "P"indicates ECM codes; "S" indicates TSM, TSSM or HFSM codes; "SP" indicates Speedometer codes; "t" indicates tachometer codes; and "b" indicates ABS codes. "no rsp" will be displayedif the engine stop switch is not in the RUN position so be sure that you have the engine stop switch in the RUN position. Also if the motorcycle does not have a certain module "no rsp" will be displayed to indicate the absence of that certain/specific module. If the motorcycle does have the module you want to check for codes on then you can go through the modules until you get to the one you want to check for codes. To move through the code categories quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch and each of the letters will appear and flash as each mode is selected so that when the letter that corresponds to the module you want to check codes for appears hold the odometer reset button in and if there are no DTC's set for that module the word "none" will appear. If any current or historical DTC's are stored in the module, either current they will appear on the odometer. And if you quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch the display will alternatively display the DTC numbers one at a time until they have all been displayed. When you have gone through all of the code categories "end" will be displayed. If you want to clear out or delete all codes in that module press and hold the odometer reset switch. If you do not want to remove or delete the recorded DTC's then quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch at which time the module part number will be displayed and if you press and release the odometer reset switch again the next module's information will be displayed. When you are done and wish to exit the diagnostic mode just turn the ignition switch to "OFF".

What are you pumping them up with??? Have you checked for leaks at fitings and/or tubing and/or the shocks themselves???

Install primary cover and gasket using the sixteen screws with captive washers tightening in sequence from center to front alternately top then bottom the middle to rear alternatively top to bottom to the rear of the cover to 100-120in-lbs (11.3-13.5 Nm) in sequence.

kinda sounds like the motor mount between the jugs is bad

Stock intake and exhaust? Low restriction pipes and air cleaner will lean out air-fuel mixture unless the ignition system has been correctly tuned.

Have you taken the front brake reservoir/brake lever assembly off before? Usually, when the front brake reservoir is improperly re-installed, it breaks off the nub of the front brake light switch, Without the nub, the brake lever can't push against the switch to turn it off. A new one's about $15 - $20 http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3700060

there is a kit ...try V-twin...or type lowering kits...I saw it..its a bracket you bolt on,,and than bolt the bottom of the shock to it..drops ya about 2..3 inches...or let the air out ..take a measurement and buy shorter shocks....I had 10 inch shocks on but they don't compress because you changed the shock angle...rode like a hardtail..it was cool when I was 30..

You can take the VIN into any dealership and they will tell you if you have any active recalls.

Remember, recalls have nothing to do with warranty. If your warranty is out, and you have recalls, the dealership must still do the work. Recalls are for safety issues.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Tank Motorcycles to model category. Check out the videos and the answer on JustAnswer.

How to remove and replace fuel pump on Road King with ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > motorcycle > 1v7jh-rem... Mar 1, 2009 - -remove canopy. -inside the tank, lift fuel pump isopod off the 2 posts. -cut Otiker clamp (squeeze clamp) from tubing at pump outlet on top ... 1 answer · Top answer: Hi Turbo, -Drain fuel tank through crossover hose at front of tank. remove o ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to make model category.

SPARK PLUGS IGNITION - davidson.com

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com > en_US PDF Spark plugs must be tightened to the torque specified for proper heat transfer. Tighten spark plugs to 11-18 ft-lbs (15 - 24.4 Nm), per spark plug. ..

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to correct HD one.. Check out the videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Harley+Davidson+Road+King+Ultra+Classic.+realign+rear+wheel ..

year make model in all questions please. Videos here https://www.google.com/search?q=harley+davidson+adjust+the+primary+chain ..