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2006 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic Questions & Answers
My Harley is showing code p55pe, what does it mean?
So just got my 2012 tri glide from the shop. Had the whole charging system replaced! What are the chances that now have no reverse! Any connection? There is a click, no movement and you can still hear it when in first for a min.
5/28/2015 11:16:17 PM •
2006 Harley...
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4,791 views • 1 helpful votes
Unplugged module on rear guard, now bike wont start
Think of it this way bike is designed to shut down when tampered with. Disconnect battery overnight use up any electricity on board by headlight. In morning do not play with anything except hooking up battery and should work. Call a dealer. My key fob factory alarm was weak so the dealer put in new fob battery. I don't know if there was a fob reset.
Wet front fork fluid change
Yes the bike needs to be off the ground, the dealer will tell you exactly how much you need when you purchase the oil. You will need the socket to remove the nut on top of the fork tube. It's a special socket, 1-3/8s", of a soft metal so you don't mar up the chrome. $20 @ J&P cycles. You'll also need 2 new Brass crush washers that are at the fork bottom when you drain the old fluid out. IMHO, if you ride aggressively, or the bike "wallows" front to rear.....usually when you enter onto a bridge going down hill, you may want to add a thicker, performance oil. For really getting a good road feel/feedback I added Progressive springs for about $75 on Ebay. Also, when removing that top nut, once it is finger loose, place a rag over it and hang on tight because it is under tension, even off the ground. I'd hate to see the spring pop it into the air, and you KNOW it will land on & scratch you paint up! I commend you for doing this much needed, unglamorous and seldom done task. Good luck. Contact me if you have any more Qs.
Where are the oil drain plugs on 06 heritage
Oil tank drain plug is a hose on the right side of the bike that goes down to a fitting on the frame, behind the transmission. The drain plug is threaded into this fitting on the frame and is accessible from under the right frame rail. Trans drain plug is underneath the trans housing.Primary drain is to the rear of the primary housing.
I have been offered a 2006 FLSTC at what seems to be a good price, but am new at this ... the bike has 26k miles ... what concerns should I have and how do I address them?
- All the electrical should work. Period, unless you're getting a helluva deal.
- Look for scratches on the parts that stick out furthest. Pegs, muffler pipes, control levers, mirrors, handgrips, engine guards. Any of this means it was put down. Don't pay full price for a bike that was slid. That doesn't mean it's worthless- I just got a bike that was stolen, and crashed in a police chase, I ride it to work now. I paid about 25% retail, though, and about another 50% to get it roadworthy. Unless it's an amazing deal, I wouldn't try this with your experience.
- If it has sat, figure the carbs are clogged. It will start hard, run rough, and pretty much this is a given on any bike that didn't have the gas drained and sat for more than a year. $75/carb to fix at my guy, your prices may vary.
- Figure a new battery in the price. Hooray if you don't need it, but again, if it sat for a while, it's probably going to be needed. They're about $200 for a good one, maybe as low as half that for a warm-weather-only PoS one.
- The MAIN THING is to make sure the frame isn't bent. Look at the bike from the rear.
- The tires should line up, as if you drew a line on the pavement, when the bars are held straight forward.
- They should also line up from the pavement together. Hard to describe, easy to see- if it was standing up not on a kickstand, they should both be be 90 degrees to the pavement. They won't be, leaned over on the jiffy stand, but they should match each other.
- They should also be in line from front to back. (As in, the rear tire should not be turned like only the front one is supposed to be able to.) Anything wrong with these three sightings, and run, don't walk, away.
Need to change my rear tiore need to know what
Take the bolts out that holds the caliper into the caliper braket. Remove the caliper and place it so it's not hanging by the hose nor crimping the hose. Jack the bike up until there's just a bit of weight on the rear wheel. Take the nut off the axle and pull the rear axle out. MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE SPACERS AS TO WHERE THEY GO and the direction. Allow the wheel to slide forward and start the belt off the rear wheel pulley. You may have to take the upper belt guard off. Raise the bike up enough to allow you to lean the wheel over and pull it out from under the bike. You may have to take part of the exhaust system off if the axle won't clear it. When you go to put it back together, put the axle in from the left side of the bike. Put the spacers in their correct positions.
Good Luck
Steve
1992 Harley-Davidson Softail Heritage Classic. What engine is this, engine # BLLN011421?
If the serial number on your motor doesn't correspond directly to an S&S motor, it's possible that the lower end, which includes the crankcase, might be a Harley Davidson component. S&S often manufactures performance parts that are compatible with Harley engines, including jugs and heads, which might be installed on a Harley lower end. This hybrid setup isn't uncommon in customized or modified motorcycles. It might be beneficial to consult with a motorcycle mechanic or a specialist familiar with Harley and S&S components to verify the specifics of your engine setup.
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