Be sure the battery is hooked up properly. If loud click the solenoid is clicking if soft small click it is the relay. If the solenoid id making the click it may have bad , corroded points that will not pass sufficient amperage to operate the starter. Do a voltage drop test to locate the problem.
First do a voltage reading on the battery and note what it is.
Using a voltmeter attach the red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which would be the positive post of the battery and attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit (if testing a starter circuit this would be the terminal on the starter, not the solenoid). THEN try to activate the starter and observe the meter reading. The meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in potential between the source and the destination. An ideal circuit voltage drop reading would be 1 volt or less. If there is an open in the circuit (i.e. NO electricity is reaching the terminal) the voltmeter should read source voltage volts which means all the voltage was dropped. A normal good starter circuit should not show more than a one volt drop. If more than 1 volt is dropped there is a problem somewhere in the circuitry before the starter terminal. In this case leaving the red voltmeter lead on the battery positive post, move the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid stud where the battery cable attaches and activate the starter circuit again. If the voltage reading is now 1 volt or less clean, repair, tighten the starter solenoid to starter terminal stud connections and test again and if no change clean/repair the internal solenoid contacts or replace the solenoid with a new/good one. If there is still a voltage drop greater than 1 volt move the negative voltmeter lead from the solenoid terminal stud to the actual battery cable terminal end at the solenoid terminal stud and again activate the starter circuit. If there is a 1 volt or less reading the battery cable terminal end and/or solenoid terminal stud and/or the connection between the two is faulty, loose, corroded or etc. Clean and tighten and retest. If there is still more than a 1 volt reading on the voltmeter the problem is a loose or corroded or otherwise bad connection between the battery cable terminal end and the battery positive post or the battery cable itself is bad. Clean and tighten the battery cable terminal and battery positive post and test again. If there is still more than a one volt reading on the voltmeter the battery cable is bad and will need to be replaced.
If there is less than a 1 volt reading when the test is done at the starter terminal the circuit up to that point is good so the next step will be to do a negative or ground circuit voltage drop test by connecting the negative or black voltmeter lead to the most negative point which is normally the negative battery post (or the closest thing thereto if, like some Sportsters, the battery post is hard or impossible to get to) and then connect the positive or red voltmeter lead to the starter mounting studs. Then activate the starter circuit again and if the voltage reading is greater than 1 volt clean the battery negative cable ends and battery post and negative cable to motorcycle frame or other grounding point, tighten same and similarly the starter mounting points and studs because there is a problem with the starter ground (could be looseness, corrosion, powder coat/paint problems etc). If the voltage reading is 1 volt or less than 1 volt in this test the ground circuit is okay and it will be necessary to perform a starter current draw test on the vehicle (and/or a starter current free draw test on the bench). If the results are within the specifications for the starter in these tests remove the spark plugs, raise the rear wheel so it can spin unimpeded, put the transmission in 5th gear and rotate the rear wheel to check for engine, transmission, primary and/or crankshaft resistance/bind. If the results are not within the amperage specifications for the particular starter replace or repair the starter motor to bring within the system amperage specifications.
If your bike was allowed to sit up for an extended period of time, the gasoline in the float bowl evaporated and left behind this gummy mess. It has plugged up the jets and possibly the small fuel passageways in the carb. The carb must be completely disassembled and soaked in a professional grade carburetor cleaning solution. Then, compressed air must be used to check all the passageways to be sure they are open. No fuel is getting into the main venturi of the carb for some reason. The enricher circuit has it's own venturi and pulls fuel directly from the float bowl. This why it will run using the enricher and not run when it's turned off. I'd suggest that you take your bike to someone that knows what they are doing with a carburetor. If whoever did the carb did it right, it should run without having to use the choke. You didn't say whether your carb was the original stock carb or an aftermarket unit. If your carb is the stock Keihin CV carb and the "anti-tamper" plug has been removed from the idle mixture screw, set the screw at 3 turns off the bottom to start with and then fine tune the idle when the engine warms up. The idle mixture and idle speed are the ONLY things you can set on any carb from the outside. The fuel metering is controlled by the jets inside of the carb.
You didn't tell me what year model your Sportster is therefore I have no idea of how many miles are on the bike. To begin with, let's start with the most obvious first, the battery. If your battery is not up to what it needs to be, the starter will chatter as the solenoid tries to engage the starter but then when the load is applied by the starter motor, the voltage drops too low to hold the solenoid in. Take your battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. They can usually "load test" the battery for you at no charge. Also, it could be the "hold in coil" in the starter's solenoid. The Nippondenso type starter on your bike has the solenoid and starter motor in one unit. The round part is the starter motor and the angled part is the solenoid part. When the solenoid is pulled in, it has a "hold in coil" to keep the plunger pulled in. If this is bad, the plunger will move in and then right back out because the "hold in coil" is not doing it's job. Since there is no way to repair this, replacement of the starter is the usual method. If the starter clicks one time and then the starter does not run, it could be the large copper contacts in the solenoid. Take the rear plate off the starter, the five-sided plate held by three small 3mm screws. Under the plate is the plunger and a spring. Take these out and look into the solenoid. On each side, there is a large copper contact that should be smooth across the face. If either or both of the contacts are burned to where they have a half moon looking step in them, they need to be replaced. You can get the replacement parts at an H-D dealer or an aftermarket shop. Disconnect the battery and replace the contacts by removing the 14mm nuts that hold the cable on each one. Pretty straight forward and you can usually do this without removing the starter.
A website called Motorcycleid.com that offers a variety of parts and accessories for your Harley Davidson, including battery mounts and hardware. I couldn't find the exact size of the bolt that fits the battery box on your 2005 Harley Davidson Lierider. However, you can try contacting Harley Davidson's customer service at 1-800-258-2464 and ask them for the bolt size . They may be able to help you locate the bolt or suggest an alternative
'd1ag' for Diagnostic or Service model.
To enter the diagnostic system and retrieve a trouble code, hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition from off to on. This will allow you to cycle through the categories, and see which one indicates a code.Feb 9, 2021
just the light says so?"N" will not glow.
or both light N and bike will not push roll>
are brakes looked up, seized.
rolls with clutch pulled in?
ive driving vast motor cycle brands, even old harley 45 flat heads. back to 1963
some I have to jog the bike in gear key out ,clutch not touched.
to get the gears to free up and find neutral
the gear have a thing called dogs. that must un lock
also some bikes
have lots of switches to make a starter work
clutch switch
Neutral
kick stand.
the shifter parts my be a bit rusty
Chopper Bob would have been the best, but says 'Temporarily Close'. I would phone in case it is old COVID data.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+mechanic+near+Newark%2C+Ohio
Here are the dealerships in Ohio.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+Ohio
You don't say what's wrong, but you may be able to fix it yourself with the help of Fixya and YouTube.
Please always include full 'year make model' in all questions. There are over 10,000 categories including every Harley Davidson model, and most years. I edited your post to add Mr Davidson and put it in the HD generic maker category.
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Replacing the kickstand on a Harley FXRT requires some disassembly and careful handling. Here are the general steps to replace the kickstand:
Preparation: Ensure you have the necessary tools, a new kickstand, and any replacement parts such as bushings or cotter pins.
Safety precautions: Place the motorcycle on a stable surface and secure it with a stand or by having someone hold it steady. Put on protective gear such as gloves and safety glasses.
Removing the cotter pin: Locate the cotter pin that holds the kickstand in place. It is usually located near the pivot point where the kickstand attaches to the frame. Use pliers or a cotter pin removal tool to remove the cotter pin.
Detaching the kickstand: Once the cotter pin is removed, carefully slide the kickstand out from its mounting bracket. You may need to gently tap it to loosen it if it's stuck. Take note of any bushings or spacers that may be present on the cotter pin side of the kickstand.
Inspecting and replacing parts: Examine the removed kickstand for any damage or wear. If there is a missing bushing or the kickstand is worn, replace it with a new one. Additionally, inspect the mounting bracket and other related parts for any signs of damage or wear. Replace any damaged or worn parts as necessary.
Installing the new kickstand: Insert the new kickstand into the mounting bracket, making sure it aligns properly. If there were bushings or spacers on the cotter pin side, ensure they are in place before inserting the kickstand. Slide it in fully, allowing it to rest in its proper position.
Securing the kickstand: Insert a new cotter pin through the designated hole on the kickstand and frame bracket. Ensure it passes through completely and securely. If necessary, bend the ends of the cotter pin to prevent it from slipping out.
Testing and adjustments: Before fully tightening any bolts, test the kickstand by lowering it and verifying that it extends and retracts smoothly. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure proper operation.
Final steps: Once you are satisfied with the installation and functionality of the new kickstand, reassemble any other components or parts that were removed during the process. Double-check that all fasteners are securely tightened.
It's important to consult the specific service manual or instructions for your Harley FXRT model for detailed guidance. If you are not confident in performing the replacement yourself, it's recommended to seek assistance from a professional motorcycle mechanic.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to maker category.
The best idea is to get a Service Manual for it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+fxr+service+manual
Things like Torque specs can be found on Google by searching 'year make model (the part) bolt torque.
MOTORCYCLE HARLEY PANHEAD or HONDA>? pan European.
? IS NOT A CAR.
WELL IF BATTERY IS GOOD AND STARTER IS GOOD
THE ENGINE IS SEIZED?
ON mc ENGINES WE REMOVE SIDE COVERS AND HAND TURN THE CRANK SHAFT MAKE SURE IT CAN SPIN.
SO WAS PARKED OUTSIDE OUT DOORS FROM MONTHS OF HARD RAIN,IS NEVER GOOD FOR ANY MOTORCYCLE EVER.
OR SHIFT TO 4TH GEAR (1:1 GEAR) AND PUSH Mc TO SEE IF ENGINE IS SEIZED. .
JUMPER CABLE JUMP THE MC BATTER TO A CAR BATTERY.?
CHARGE YOUR BATTERY FOR 4 HOURS OFF A 10AMP CHARGER? LETTING LEAD/ACID BATTERY JUST SIT ASKS FOR Sulfation DAMAGE occurs when a battery is deprived of a full charge, I KEPT ALL MY MC (HAD 5 OR MORE) ON FLOAT CHARGE AND NEVER DID THEY FAIL. FULL TIME PARKED UNUSED.
FUSES GOOD
BATTERY GOOD
STARTER RELAY GOOD
STARTER GOOD
ENGINE NOT SIEZED.
ALSO MANY MOTORCYCLES: this era up.
ALL HAVE NEUTRAL SWITCH STARTER CUT OUT.
SOME HAVE KICK STAND CUT OUT.
SOME HAVE HANDLE BAR DEAD MAN SWITCH LEVERS SET WRONG,
OR CLUTCH SWITCH SAME. CUT OUT.
OR BAD KEY SWITCH OR ANY WIRE TO ANY IF THE ABOVE BAD.
my huge BMW had all that, even in 1977
OR DID YOU MEAN
Honda ST 1100 Pan European????????
IS IT SO HARD TO SAY MAKERS NAME FIRST?
And not put the ST on the wrong end,if true?
but but but !
but is same answer, all motors have the same things , for cranking, (well not my nasty Yamaha' Vargo of old)
starter cutouts on MC are vast, vary by year.
and free manuals for me to read to you never free
pan head or pan European, I fail.
buy the service manual if serious DYI.
see all cutouts and test them all if engine not seized.
use a voltmeter tool , gue$$ing is no fun.
Question edited for clarity. Please always include full 'year, full maker name, full model name and LETTERS + c.c'.
1982 Harley-Davidson FLT Tour Glide Classic 1340
Question moved from Misc to Harley Davidson. If you write the name in full, the website scripts will offer the correct category.
The information is here. There is only a torque spec for the axle caps.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1982+Harley+Davidson+35mm+fork+cap+torque
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you will need to remove the cover on the right side of the instrument panel. There are six fuses in this box. The first two are located near the battery and should be replaced every six months or when the light turns red. The next four are located in a row across from the battery and should be replaced every year. The last two are located near the horn and should be replaced when they blow.
