20 Most Recent 2008 Yamaha PW50 Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Apr 29, 2019


Hi, Ownymc84 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2009/LIT-11626-22-24_PW50_1574.pdf

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2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Jun 08, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://books.google.com/books?id=ozV8-Aer4N8C&pg=PA84&dq=pw50+manual&hl=en&ei=TCS2TcbdJ4PW0QG0z9jmDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CGUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=pw50%20manual&f=false
OEM parts for Yamaha
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Apr 24, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Mar 03, 2017


Hi, Ricks for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
PW50 kickstart issues Mini Pe Wee
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OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/2009/lit-11626-22-24_pw50_1574.pdf

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Dec 24, 2016


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2008 Yamaha PW50 | Answered on Dec 16, 2016


Here is a site that offers conversion tables.

 

http://www.unit-conversion.info/volume.html

 

300 Cubic centimeters is 1/3 of a liter, or 0.317 Quarts.

Yamaha FLSTF... | Answered on Oct 16, 2011


Did you check/clean your air filter? I had a no start issue with my Yamaha RD350 where the filter box was tight up against the seat and no air was getting into the carb. Do you have compression? Is the cylinder still attached by the connecting rod? Have you recently made any changes (like new jets) or repairs to cylinder or rings?
usually it comes down to an air intake issue if you have a working cylinder in a motor with gas and spark unless your timing is so far off that it isn't firing during the compression. But it might still backfire if it's off?

Yamaha... | Answered 3 days ago


The gear cogs might have moved or damaged. Better get a repairman to have a look at it.

Yamaha... | Answered 3 days ago


I always add about 10% oil to my small engines to help protect them from friction. If it starts ok with that much oil, it might smoke a bit and cause a little carbon build up on the plugs or valves, but most engines after 1980 are high enough heat and compression ratio to clean themselves up.
Sometimes the oil doesn't blend in all the way without some sloshing around.

Yamaha... | Answered on Dec 03, 2019


Hi, Allen if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforums.net/threads/v-star-650-idle-issues.48035/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QtmvhOLSLA
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/833178/Yamaha-Xvs650.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/659403/Yamaha-V-Star-Xvs650p.html

Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 29, 2019


Hi, Yusuf and the usual suspects are:
1. Condensation builds up from parking a hot bike in a cold place.
2. Blown head gasket on liquid cooled engines.
3. Faulty water pump.
4. Blown base gasket.
5. Cracked cylinder or head.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.quora.com/Milky-oil-in-my-scooter-125cc-can-someone-find-the-problem
https://www.elf.com/en/lubricants-faq/about-lubricants/why-there-water-engine-oil
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/917772/Yamaha-Xc50v.html#product-VINO%20XC50V
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/558548/Yamaha-Vino-Xc50w.html#product-VINO%20XC50V

Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 22, 2019


Maybe..but the wire frim alternator to batt cud b worn out or connections bad. Alternator brushes mite need old

Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 15, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://biobug.org/motorcycle/xs850/Yamaha-XS70-XS850-Service-Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/
https://bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_xs_750_special_1981.php
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_XS750

Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 10, 2019


Hi, Chet for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Wiring+diagram+1981+Yamaha+XJ750+Seca&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjP6Ybv8N3lAhWKv1kKHRc4DQcQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
http://classiccycles.org/1852/597985.html
https://www.xjcd.org/book/export/html/77
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/

Yamaha... | Answered on Nov 09, 2019

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