Backfires are when fuel travels through the cylinders without combusting then explodes in the exhaust pipe. Fuel supply/combustion issue. It seems likely there's a problem either with the mix going into the cylinders (carbs fuel lines or air intake), or with timing. These can affect a bike at particular speeds and throttle positions. If using the choke has helped at some point that's a further indication (the choke changes the gas/air mix). ,,,
Hi, Unstable before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Fuel filter dirty? This could be a problem the '85 LTD and the '86 SEI. The fuel filter for those machines are different than the rest. They are for the pressurized fuel system and are a bit expensive. Don't know if mother Honda still has them.
Hi, William and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Dirty air filter
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
11. Old dead or bad fuel.
12. A faulty fuel pressure regulator
13. Pinholes in the in-tank plastic convoluted tubing from the pressure regulator to the quick disconnect check valve.
14. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
15. The throttle body controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
17. Clogged or faulty fuel injectors.
18. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
19. Faulty TPS, MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Weak or broken valve springs.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. The control module may be in limp mode.
24. Check for engine trouble codes.
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