20 Most Recent 1984 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing - Page 2 Questions & Answers

what bike is it on? most have an adjuster by the handlebar, and one the clutch casing actuator arm.

do it from the bottom first and make sure there is a nut either side of the cable grab on the motor itself. and make sure that the handlebar end is wound in first.

The only thing usually necessary is to pull a little slack in the carb heater air hose to get enough room to pull the plastic belt cover free. Changing the water pump, timing belts, alternator are much easier.Just be sure to double and triple check the cam alighnment before tightening the tensioners. If you do it right you are spot on. Just be sure to rotate the crank at least twice.--- For complete detail on how to replace the belt and other parts.please click the link below:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-replace-timing-belts-on-1200cc.html ----------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

I have only changed the belts on my GL1000's. The manual says to remove the radiator but I have found that it is not necessary. With a little bit of knuckle scrapping and some care when removing the four long bolts that hold on the belt covers, you can slide both the bolts and the covers out and replace the belts underneath. If there is just not quite enough clearance you may be able to unbolt the radiator and move it forward just enough to accomplish this with out having to drain it. The pictures you have may be from a 1000, an 1100, or a 1200. The fact is that the timing belts are changed and adjusted the same way on all three models. Just take care when removing the cover mount bolts that you do not damage the radiator. If you are careful you should be able to replace the belts with out all the extra work of draining and removing the radiator. Dealers short cut the radiator removal but charge you for the time anyway. Good Riding.

If you are not going to work or fix in the engine, just do a oil and filter change, make sure you are using a good recommended quality oil.

This is only if there is not water bodies in the oil, such as the oil does not have some milky liquid flowing in oil when you are changing the oil.

If that the case does your bike use coolant for cooling (use a radiator?), if so you must follow the coolant pipes and find out whether you have any crack anywhere the coolant passes.

As you have not described what kind of bike we are talking about, my answer is just a general suggestion. Cheers. Do not forget to mark thumbs up.

Most motorcycles use a "flasher" to operate the signal lights.Older ones used a mechanical type that heared up a bi-metalic strip that flexed, then cooled down and make contact again. usually it made a clicking sound. they are very similar to the auto flasher that you can buy in any auto store. newer ones use an electronic type with transistors that time the operation. The older ones used a lot of current and if the battery was low, then they tended not to fully operate. the newer ones use very little current and operate most of the time if the battery is reasonably charged. The flasher looks like a small can with two or three blade plug ins, that plugs into a position on the wiring harness.

You can purchase manuals on line at HELMINC.COM.

Try this: Slide back the rubber boot that goes between the back of the engine and the swing arm. Do this by slipping the front edge of the boot off of the collar on the back of the engine. Now you can get a screwdriver - or your fingers in there to help hold the end of the u-joint up and align it with the end of the drive shaft. The end of the shaft - and the u-joint - have splines that must match up before they will slide together, requiring that you rotate the drive shaft as you insert it. Be sure to apply grease to the splines before assembly. When you are done, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully re-attach the rubber boot the the back of the engine.
Tip: Assemble the final drive unit to the swing arm, but do not tighten the four nuts until after the rear wheel is in place and the axle nut tightened. This will help ensure proper alignment of the final drive assembly and the splined joint that attaches it to the rear end of the drive shaft. Also, make absolutely certain that grease is applied to the splines in the rear wheel hub where it meets the final drive output splines. Failure to grease this section will cause premature failure of the splines.

I am assuming the black color is a dry sooty black powder like condition, right? (If the black is oily and wet, it's rings, and will require a top end rebuild...) But, If it is the sooty black,Try this: Make sure the black plugs gap is the same as 1 of the other plugs. If not, correct it. Then do a spark plug swap with 1 of the plugs in the other cylinders. Run a few tanks of gas and pull both plugs. Did the good plug you put in the bad plugs place turn black? If YES, the problem is a rich fuel condition in that cylinder caused by dirty air filter, carb. problem, or a restricted exhaust.

To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps: Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places: Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567. Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body. Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it: The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit. The 10th digit represents the year code. For example: A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 1 = 2000 2 = 2001 3 = 2002 Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model; Additional Resources: If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped. Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.

Question edited for clarity and add magic word. The Owner's Manual covers basic repairs and is free. https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+anf125+innova+service+and+repair+manual

Honda ANF125 Innova Service and Repair Manual

Google Books https://books.google.com > ... > Repair & Maintenance The aim of this manual is to help readers get the best from their motorcycle. It provides information on routine maintenance and servicing and the tasks are ...

Honda ANF125 Manuals

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Scooter Manuals and User Guides for Honda ANF125. We have 1 Honda ANF125 manual available for free PDF download: Owner's Manual ...

Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter (2003 - 2012)

Haynes Manuals https://haynes.com > en-gb > anf125-innova-scooter Detailed repair guides and DIY insights for 2003-2012 Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter's maintenance with a Haynes manual. ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

Check the wiring, especially the engine earth lead.

On the bottom of your speedometer on the left side there is 2 buttons press the far left one for a couple of seconds and the light should go on

Question edited for clarity. The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.

1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)

The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing. Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges. Wiring diagrams and manuals https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram ..

For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components. For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows: 1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) 2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs) It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model. When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket. Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly. As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.

found this on eBay copy and paste Picture 1 of 1 Vesrah Oil Filter for Honda VT250C V Twin Magna 1994-1995

. One possibility is that the spark plug or plug wire is faulty 1. Another possibility is that the carburetor needs cleaning and adjustment It could also be due to a valve adjustment issue or a bent rod. I would recommend taking your motorcycle to a professional mechanic who can diagnose and fix the issue. If you prefer to troubleshoot it yourself, you can start by checking the spark plug and plug wire for any damage or wear and cleaning the carburetor. However, please note that working on a motorcycle engine can be dangerous and requires specialized knowledge and tools. Please take all necessary safety precautions and follow the manufacturer's instructions when working on your motorcycle.

The problem might be with the air filter, and if not there are a few other things that could be causing your Shadow engine to bog down on acceleration. This includes a dirty carburetor, carb adjustment issues, or other internal problems like damaged vacuum lines or a cracked manifold